Quick question regarding clutch master/slave cylinder *UPDATE*
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Quick question regarding clutch master/slave cylinder *UPDATE*
OK my slave cylinder is leaking like a running tap, clutch also started to chatter and sound bad. This morning was the first time i felt a difference in the clutch pedal when the car was cold (it was lower than usual, but not so much).
Now, if i replace the clutch master and slave cylinders, i read that i would also need to replace the clutch hardware itself? (as in pressure plate, flywheel and clutch disk) or is this false?
I KNOW for certain that the fluid is messing up the clutch, im ordering those parts on Monday (which then is supposed to arrive next Saturday) should i be concerned about anything else? the clutch master clyinder to slave cylinder hose would also be replaced.
Now, if i replace the clutch master and slave cylinders, i read that i would also need to replace the clutch hardware itself? (as in pressure plate, flywheel and clutch disk) or is this false?
I KNOW for certain that the fluid is messing up the clutch, im ordering those parts on Monday (which then is supposed to arrive next Saturday) should i be concerned about anything else? the clutch master clyinder to slave cylinder hose would also be replaced.
Last edited by hosrom_951; 12-19-2004 at 02:15 AM.
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Normally you don't need to change the disc or pressure plate when you replace the cylinders but if you're saying that the disc got brake fluid on it then yes, you should change it.
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Well, the clutch is chattering. There is brake fluid all over the oil pan, the master cylinder leaked, the stopped leaking but i shall replace it anyway along with the slave cylinder.
How to tell if the clutch is contaminated with brake fluid? through the inspection hole? and why would you replace it if it is contaminated?
How to tell if the clutch is contaminated with brake fluid? through the inspection hole? and why would you replace it if it is contaminated?
#5
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Replacing the clutch is tons of work, compared to a fairly not-time-consuming job of replacing the master/slave. If the clutch operates properly after replacing the master/slave, you might not have to change the clutch. If it works fine, good for you, otherwise I don't think you can make any other damage. Do you guys agree with this? That assumes the clutch itself is OK. I'm not sure about this "clutch chattering".
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Clutch chatter is basically when you get squeeks and noises comming from the clutch.
The clutch works fine, its soft and all, but it's the leaky slave cylinder ithat concerns me.
The clutch works fine, its soft and all, but it's the leaky slave cylinder ithat concerns me.
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Make sure that you keep the brake cylinder reservoir filled. The clutch and brake hydraulics use the same reservoir. If the clutch cyliders leak enough fluid that the reservoir gets really low, the brake system could get air in it.
You shouldn't have to replace the clutch. There isn't really much chance of hyraulic fluid getting to the clutch or pressure plate.
You shouldn't have to replace the clutch. There isn't really much chance of hyraulic fluid getting to the clutch or pressure plate.
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Steve: Even if brake fluid does find a way to seep into the clutch housing, would that cause problems? as in needing to replace the clutch? slipping would be understood though.
#9
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I am in the process of rebuilding my master/slave cylinder. Think about this, Replace or rebuild the master/slave and try out the cultch. I dont think you will do any damage. If it does not work, or burnoff the fluid then you will probbaly have to change the clutch disk.... Anyone agree?
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Hussam,
I think 944_S_TYPE's point is that you should replace the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder regardless of the condition of the clutch. After you are sure the master and slave cylinders are not leaking, you can evaluate the condition of the clutch.
I don't know if brake fluid on the clutch will cause a failure.
It's worth a try to replace the hydraulics. If the clutch works good after the you get the hydraulics right, then you're good. If there is still a problem, you might have to replace the clutch. Replacing the master and slave cylinders may take a few hours. Replacing the clutch will take a couple of days.
So try the easy stuff first - replace the hydraulic cylinders and stop the leak. Then if you have to do it, you can replace the clutch.
I think 944_S_TYPE's point is that you should replace the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder regardless of the condition of the clutch. After you are sure the master and slave cylinders are not leaking, you can evaluate the condition of the clutch.
I don't know if brake fluid on the clutch will cause a failure.
It's worth a try to replace the hydraulics. If the clutch works good after the you get the hydraulics right, then you're good. If there is still a problem, you might have to replace the clutch. Replacing the master and slave cylinders may take a few hours. Replacing the clutch will take a couple of days.
So try the easy stuff first - replace the hydraulic cylinders and stop the leak. Then if you have to do it, you can replace the clutch.
#11
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Usually a leaking slave will drip into the bellhousing and run down the inner wall and out the bottom. If the rubber inspection plug was missing I suppose a vacuum could possibly fling some fluid onto the PP but I doubt it's common. My slave failed and leaked badly without any getting on the disc after driving it home 50 miles on the freeway with very little pedal pressure left. I would do the hydraulics first and not worry about the clutch unless it slips.
944_S_TYPE: Could you post that NAPA part number for the MC rebuild kit? I lost my box and want to buy a spare kit to keep on hand.
944_S_TYPE: Could you post that NAPA part number for the MC rebuild kit? I lost my box and want to buy a spare kit to keep on hand.
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I agree with the above. First start simple and cheap (well, cheaper then a clutch). You can replace the master and slave fairly easy. The fun part is bleading the air out of the slave. If that fixes everything then you are done and have an extra $2K in your pocket. Don't make problems where none may exist!
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Thanks guys, after taking the car to the local porsche specialist, it turned out that the camshaft tower has a ver minor leak that drips (every one in a while) to the rear engine, thus on the rear of the pan (that is where oil marks are).
Slave cylinder and Clutch Master cylinders are bone dry, along with the associated hose same with the clutch, even the inspection hole plug was missing, but what is causing the chatter then?
Thanks for everyone's help and i shall keep this info for the future
Slave cylinder and Clutch Master cylinders are bone dry, along with the associated hose same with the clutch, even the inspection hole plug was missing, but what is causing the chatter then?
Thanks for everyone's help and i shall keep this info for the future
#15
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Originally Posted by hosrom_951
OK my slave cylinder is leaking like a running tap, clutch also started to chatter and sound bad. This morning was the first time i felt a difference in the clutch pedal when the car was cold (it was lower than usual, but not so much)