shmucklebuckle

My camshaft timing gear needs to come off so I can replace the seal behind it. I read up on all the processes neccesary to do the seals at clark's garage, and his directions said to use a gear puller, which I bought and have tried to use with wd 40 and a propane torch to heat the gear (thereby expanding the gear, making it easier to remove. in theory.). And the gear moved.... A little. but I've put alot of preasure on it already, and it's not movin' anymore. I just wanted to make sure that it's SUPPOSED to come off like this, there's no threading or anything inside the gear, right? Any other tricks you guys could think of to get it off would be very very very much appreciated. I think I'm gonna shoot it!

Thanks everyone!

Gator_86_951

You took out the triple-square bolt in the center of the cam gear right. If not, do that. Also, don't get the cheap lisle triple-square bit. It will break. I promise. Get a quality piece from snap-on or something. You will also need an 1-1/4 or similar metric wrench to hold the gear in place to get out the bolt. You could also probably use another set of hands. You the word triple-square. Clarks-garage is the only place in the world to refer to it as cheese-head. Once that is out your gear puller will take it right now pretty easily.

I think that bolt is intended to be replaced. My head machinist sent me a new one. The woodruff key can be a pain to take out too.

Sam Lin

Just to double check, you've removed the center bolt (with the cheesehead), right?

Sam

shmucklebuckle

oops...

Man I must be really tired right now. and embarassed for not remembering to follow directions. I guess I deserved this one!

I guess I don't need to shoot it now, just take out a bolt... This never happened... wink, wink...

Gator_86_951

Don't worry about it. I think the bit is 10mm triple-square.

Jakerx

hey don't worry i've done stupider things

joseph mitro

except the factory manual, that is....

i had to drill mine out last year when replacing the head. the shop that finished the repair replaced it with an M10 or M12 hex head bolt.

Gator_86_951

Yes, you are right. So I guess porsche and clarks-garage are the only ones. I mentioned that so it wasn't a pain to find the tool for him. It will save him like 10 minutes trying to find it I guess. Good call.

Was you shop able to get the proper torque value with just a hex bolt? I think the torque value was like 50ft-lbs or something. According to the documentation Porsche moved away from a Torx or maybe it was a Hex on the earlier 2.5L motors. Am I wrong here? Yeah, it says that at clarks-garage. It is speculation for me at this point, so I replaced it with the factory part. Will that bolt come back off the next time?

dualblade

matco and snap on trucks will have the 10mm cheesehead in 1/2 inch drive. it'll be about $20. i used a 1/2 drive ratchet with a jack handle on top for leverage to get mine off. you will need a wrench on the large bolt or you'll just rotate the cam

joseph mitro

i'm assuming they were able to obtain the correct torque value on the hex head bolt. I was able to remove it without too much difficulty (at least i didn't have to drill the damn thing out this time!)

Gator_86_951

Yeah. I am sure it will be fine. What are the chances of you taking it apart in 17 years right :-). Just wanted to make sure he wouldn't be f-ed if he used the hex bolt. What color is your s. We are thinking about picking up a yellow one for pretty cheap.

500

I just removed mine and used the cheapo Lisle one and it was OK. Pretty tight though, did need a 2' bar. I'm sure a Snap On bit would be a wise investment and I'll probably get one just to be safe in the future.

I cracked mine off with the old timing belt on (and the flywheel lock too). I didn't have anybody reliable nearby to counter. It worked well for me. Although mine looks fine, I am replacing it with a new factory piece upon re-assembly.

Danno

THe first time I removed that bolt from the cam, I used an impact driver with the cheesehead bit.