i finally received my reconditioned head back today and it looks beautiful! started installing it on the block and i got as far as installing the camshafts and chain. the factory manual says to insert both cams into the chain and lay them into the journals with the "cast lugs" aligned with the marked links on the chain. well, my chain does not have any marked links, but i got the cast lugs aligned i think. does this look correct below? the red arrows point to the two cast lugs which are oriented in the same direction. i have not yet installed the cam bridges. I want confirmation this is correct before i do. Thanks a lot!!

 

i will look at my marking when i get home (i'm visiting relatives in north carolina right now). i don't think the way you have it can be right because both cams are in the same position (or so it looks). this means that the exhaust and intake valves would open at the same time which doesn't make much sense. i did take pictures while the cams were on the head so you can look at their orientation. i would NOT use this picture to align the cams, but you can see the approximate angles. pic available in a minute

edit:

 

I have to agree with Andrew because the exhaust and intake lobes for #2 look to be in phase with each other. Can't have them opening at the same time so what you have in the picture Joseph is wrong. Haven't done this myself so I couldn't tell you what to do to make it correct.

 

Joe, I just went throught this on an engine I put together.

The picture in the manual is unlike any other picture in the manual. The orientation of the point of view is from the firewall, looking towards the front of the car. If you look at the camshafts from that point of view, you will find the cast lug with no problem.

You're most of the way there...

Good luck, and happy thanksgiving.

gb

 

ah, hah.......yes, all of you guys are correct. the cast lugs are NOT the big flat things i'm pointing to. with george's help looking from the firewall forward, i CAN see two tiny small cast lugs right next to the sprockets. when these are in phase, then the camshafts should be in phase as well. let me take a pic in a moment or two......thanks everybody for your help!! happy thanksgiving
EDIT - hey george, i actually bought these cams from you last year when my tensioner went bad. who would've dreamt you'd see them again

 

Hi Joseph,

It seems the issue is resolved. Just wanted to chime in that mine also look like the photo in Andrew's post with the cylinder one exhaust cams pointing at approx. 2:00 with the intakes at 10:00 (viewed from front) with cylinder one at TDC. Mine also has the small cast-in mark on both cams, right next to the sprockets.

Great that your head has arrived! Look forward to the latest pics!

A question for everyone (I'm just about to replace my tensioner): What is the purpose of the special assembly bridges (9248)? Is is just to ease the positioning of the cams back onto the head? Or is there some other purpose? Unlike Joseph, who is reconstructing the head, I'm just replacing the tensioner. Can I get away without the assembly bridges, or am I asking for trouble?

Thanks!

And Go Joseph!

 

when i replaced my tensioner, i didn't use any special tools. unless the "special assembly bridges" are the plastic pieces that the chain rides on (which you definately need), i'd say you're fine. also, cams back onto the head? you don't have to take the cams out to do the tensioner. i certainly didn't for my car so unless the s is very different than the s2, you just pull the tensioner and put the new one on

 

Thanks Andrew,

Yes, I have a new tensioner with the plastic pads. I forgot to mention that I'm replacing the chain as well, that's why I figure I need to remove the camshafts.

 

Hi amjf,
Are you talking about the part that bridges the tensioner
between plug towers 2 & 3 ? If so, the purpose is to spread
the loads between the 2 plug towers. It's a known fact that
theres a tendency for the tensioner to break off causing a
un repairable head.

 

ah, that would explain it. yes, if replacing the chain you certainly need to pull the cams. replacing for preventative maintainance?

 

Hi J. Chen,

Actually I'm talking about a special tool that is referenced in the factory manual. The picture shows two large aluminum (?) blocks that clamp down on the pair of cams. These blocks are used for dis-assembly and re-assembly only (definitely too large to remain installed). My thinking is that they allow the bearing caps to be removed and installed with the cam already fixed tight against the pressure of the valve springs. The write up in Clarke's garage suggests loosening and tightening the caps very progressively to achieve the same thing. I'm just wondering if this is OK or if the assembly tool makes an important difference. I'm actually not sure about the part that bridges the tensioner between the #2 and 3 plug towers that you mentioned. My head looked pretty much exactly like the picture in Andrew's post (second post) when I removed the valve cover.

Andrew,

I am changing the chain, tensioner, oil feed tube, O-rings for same and fasteners, all as preventative maintenance. Everything actually looks really good (not too much wear visible on the plastic blocks) but the car has 147K with no record of a tensioner change so I thought it be wise to just do everything...

Thanks for the replies!

 

on the head I dissasembled I did not use the special bridge tool, and everything came off just fine. Just go around loosening stuff slowly, and keep mind of the aligment pins that connect the head and the bearings. Those bearings have to come straight off, no twisting or knocking to the side.

 

hey joseph looks like you're making great progress! good luck on the rest!

 

I hope this helps, good luck on the assembly.

 

hey rads2- thanks for going to the effort of posting that. i already have the factory manual so that's what i've been referencing. see my next post - https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-944-951-968-forum/172159-16valve-cam-installation-part-ii.html