Should I put threadlocker while bolting the pressure plate?
10-24-2004, 01:13 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
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Should I put threadlocker while bolting the pressure plate?
Should I use:
1. threadlocker blue
2. nothing
3. antisieze compound
Please indicate in the reply how (approximately) many clutch jobs you have done, and whether you had a chance to redo the job several years later on the SAME car, and if there were any problems.
Thanks.
1. threadlocker blue
2. nothing
3. antisieze compound
Please indicate in the reply how (approximately) many clutch jobs you have done, and whether you had a chance to redo the job several years later on the SAME car, and if there were any problems.
Thanks.
10-24-2004, 07:03 PM
#6
I used nothing. With the pressure plate though, even if the bolts strip its really easy to drill them out. You just drill the head off, and then the pressure plate slips right off and the remainder of the bolt screws out easily.
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10-24-2004, 10:59 PM
#8
Three Wheelin'
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FWIW...
I always use anit-sieze when the bolt is treaded into aluminum. For example, the bolts that hole the clutch housing to the engine.
I always use thread locker if it is critical that the bolt not back off. For example, the caliper mounting bolts.
The pressure plate to flywheel bolts on the 944 are torqued high. It is my understanding that the bolts stretch (that's why you should always use new bolts), so there is no need to use thread locker. The bolts are steel and the flyweel is steel, so there will be no galvanic reaction and anti-sieze is not needed. I chose to use anti-sieze when I did the clutch on my 83 because I hoped that it might help with removal. I never had the chance to remove it to find out if it helped. But there was no sign of anti-sieze or thread locker on the bolts I removed, so the mechanic who replaced the clutch earlier did not use either, or it was gone.
I always use anit-sieze when the bolt is treaded into aluminum. For example, the bolts that hole the clutch housing to the engine.
I always use thread locker if it is critical that the bolt not back off. For example, the caliper mounting bolts.
The pressure plate to flywheel bolts on the 944 are torqued high. It is my understanding that the bolts stretch (that's why you should always use new bolts), so there is no need to use thread locker. The bolts are steel and the flyweel is steel, so there will be no galvanic reaction and anti-sieze is not needed. I chose to use anti-sieze when I did the clutch on my 83 because I hoped that it might help with removal. I never had the chance to remove it to find out if it helped. But there was no sign of anti-sieze or thread locker on the bolts I removed, so the mechanic who replaced the clutch earlier did not use either, or it was gone.
10-24-2004, 11:03 PM
#9
Administrator - "Tyson"
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When in doubt put anti-sieze on one half the threads and thread locker on ther other.
10-24-2004, 11:10 PM
#10
Three Wheelin'
I'd say use med strenght blue locktite. Strong enough to hold and make sure nothing backs out but easy enough to get them out still.
Hacker-Pschorr how exactly does that work? I'd think the anti-seize would get between the locktite and the metal so it doesn't make the contact to bond thus defeating the purpose. Anti seize is meant to make things not get stuck, locktite is meant to make things stick, they are complete opposites.
Hacker-Pschorr how exactly does that work? I'd think the anti-seize would get between the locktite and the metal so it doesn't make the contact to bond thus defeating the purpose. Anti seize is meant to make things not get stuck, locktite is meant to make things stick, they are complete opposites.
