Stan944

I just received the clutch package (with updated disk, i.e. with springs instead of the rubber center), and am inspecting the parts. The throw out bearing came with several additional pieces:
- toothed ring
-thick ring with a snap ring
- 3 thin flat rings
Could someone describe (and preferably attach a picture) how to mount all of these with respect to the throw out bearing and the pressure plate. I can figure out some parts, but wouldn't like to experiment too much, as I know how much work it is to take it apart later on.
Thanks.

Kevin Baker

The toothed ring goes first, then the flat rings, then the snap ring. On the rear facing side of the t/o bearing. IIRC. Note, when you take out the old clutch it should be clear, just don't disasemble the t/o bearing without looking at the rings. It has been a little more than one year since I was in there poking around at stuff, and my wife will tell you that I forget things from time to time.

IceShark

My clutch kit should show up today so I will be having the same questions. I think some of the seperate rings are for shimming up the TOB position depending on how much you have to resurface the flywheel face. To keep the angle dimensions correct. I'm planning on asking the machine shop that does the resurfacing how this is supposed to work as I'm going to have the whole works dynamically balanced.

But I haven't seen anything written up about this and I've done a lot of searching.

peterjcb

Where did you purchase your clutch kit from and what was the cost?
I am planning on replacing my clutch this winter. It has over 158,000 on the original clutch and I thinkg that it's probably time to do some pre-emptive repairs rather than to wait for an inopportune breakdown.

IceShark

I searched all over as I was toying with an aluminum FW, different disc, different pressure plate. I ended up going with the Cup clutch kit. I'm not sure that the Cup clutch will fit the '87 S. I think you have a smaller diameter disc. I recall some comments on a Sachs web page about clearance issues on NA cars. Should be easy enough to find out by just giving them a call. And you should get a similar good deal if you just ask for it.

Here is the page:

http://www.gprparts.com/brands/sachs...ePriceList.asp

So $580 for a turbo Cup clutch kit and I think $12 for the shipping. That is the lowest I saw anywhere.

Then Lindsey Racing has put together a misc. parts kit for $65. Has the fly and PP bolts, bearings, rear crank seal, guide tube, alignment tool, etc. Then about all you need are the tools. The triple square/cheesehead drives being the ones you really want to have top quality. Round out the inside of one of those bolt heads and you have probably created a nightmare.

Stan944

Yes, I should check how the old one was mounted. The catch is that I have to assume it was correct in the first place. And those shims can be placed at more than one way...

I bought my clutch kit from Pelican (20 -piece kit for $650, Sachs, with spring disk, including master and slave cylinders, all 4 bearings, etc).
The pressure plate bolts (separate order) were different than I expected though: allen head instead of "12 point"... This sucks a bit, because these are same as I took out, and I had to drill the heads out on two of them.

IceShark

An engineer friend was telling me the triple square (12 piont) allows you to have a shallower head as you have more contact points than an allen head and less likely to round it out.

So I would stick with the triple square though you may have a hard time finding less than 50 or 100 bolts in the right grade. I think those are 12.9.

tomc_85.5_944

Doing mine right now as well, and wondered if the clutch had been replaced at least once, due to finding allen heads instead of cheeseheads on the pressure plate.

Local import machine shop said that the flywheel is stepped, after local domestic place was only going to grid the one part, and didn't have a small enough surfacer...

Import guy had to order a part for his surfacer, so I am down for a few days waiting on my flywheel. Got to pull the pilot bearing, replace the rear seal, do what is being discussed above, and then wait on the flywheel.

It was SO COOL to me to get the clutch out and see the failure. Only thing keeping my clutch from spinning free were 3 little metal tabs...

David Floyd

I understand that the flywheel is stepped also, how can I tell if my local machinest can "really" machine it correctly ? is stepped common ?

tomc_85.5_944

Guy told me that a stepped flywheel has to have both portions machined the same, or things get starnge with engagement. (poor translation) Stepped is common in imports, and not domestics, according to him. If he has dealt with stepped ones before, he should be good to go, since AFAIK our stepped are not special...

IceShark

David, I think the stepped part is a problem. When I was searching I found a lot of comments about this. So you need a machine shop that knows what they are doing. Quite frankly, I don't even know what exactly a stepped surface is. Guess I will find out when I get the clutch out.

Sam Lin

Stepped means reference surface for the PP and the actual friction surface aren't on the same plane. To keep proper engagement and clamping you need to keep their relative distances the same - ie, can't just machine one or the other.

Sam

David Floyd

Sam, so you have both the flywheel and pp resurfaced or do nothing to either ?

Sam Lin

Only on the flywheel, it's not an actual 90' step, just an offset.

Sam

Stan944

Dan, althouh I completely agree with, I'll stay with the bolts I already have. I really need to get the car going as fast as possible - I'm so tired of commuting to work by bus/train/subway/bus, :-(