3 mech questions for those better trained than I
#1
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To add to my never ending mech quest to finally have the ultimate driving machine (ok, so the word finally will never happen):
1)I took my car to get realigned and noticed that a)my front shocks are almost gone. What performance shocks do you recomend?
2) I also noticed that the pasanger wheel is slightly loose up and down. (this would explain the stearing wheel's vibration at 50. All the bushings are new so that's not it. What could it be?
3) On my drive home I noticed that when I gunned the accelerator with the clutch peddal out, the revs would go up then normalize as if I had the clutch partially pressed then released. It feel as if the force from the engine is loose.
Is it time for a clutch change? and if so, which is best?
1)I took my car to get realigned and noticed that a)my front shocks are almost gone. What performance shocks do you recomend?
2) I also noticed that the pasanger wheel is slightly loose up and down. (this would explain the stearing wheel's vibration at 50. All the bushings are new so that's not it. What could it be?
3) On my drive home I noticed that when I gunned the accelerator with the clutch peddal out, the revs would go up then normalize as if I had the clutch partially pressed then released. It feel as if the force from the engine is loose.
Is it time for a clutch change? and if so, which is best?
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(1) Koni Yellow - externally adjustable or alternatively Biltstein
(2) ball joints - replace now or lose the wheel at high speed. Also check the a-arms and tie rods.
(3) sounds like a slipping clutch - get a Sachs with the spring (NOT the rubber) center and have fun doing the single worst repair that can possibly be done on these cars. If you're lucky, you'll keep your sanity and have the car back on the road in several months. Better still, buy the Sachs kit and have a mechanic do it even if it's expensive - you'll get a warranty and not have to deal with the living hell of a clutch replacement.
Sorry for the bad news.
(2) ball joints - replace now or lose the wheel at high speed. Also check the a-arms and tie rods.
(3) sounds like a slipping clutch - get a Sachs with the spring (NOT the rubber) center and have fun doing the single worst repair that can possibly be done on these cars. If you're lucky, you'll keep your sanity and have the car back on the road in several months. Better still, buy the Sachs kit and have a mechanic do it even if it's expensive - you'll get a warranty and not have to deal with the living hell of a clutch replacement.
Sorry for the bad news.
#4
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I wish you had your car in your signature...it would help me with suggestions.
1) Koni adjustables would probably be best if cash is not really an issue, that or just Koni sports
2) sounds most likely to be a wheelbearing, either worn or just loose, have your balljoint checked just to be sure(unless you feel compitent to diagnose it yourself)
3) Does sound like a slipping clutch, because of the ammount of work required, I would suggest getting a full clutch kit and have the flywheeel machined to do it right. If it is a turbo, I recommend the cup car clutch disc, I believe that Paragon has them. If it's an NA, I would suggest at least a spring centered clutch disc, the rubber centered clutch is prone to failure.
Your preferences and driving style, possibly racing or AutoX and year and type of car all play a role in choosing any part for your car. Let us in on your plans and preferences and the list should be able to steer you close to where you want to be. Hope to help.
1) Koni adjustables would probably be best if cash is not really an issue, that or just Koni sports
2) sounds most likely to be a wheelbearing, either worn or just loose, have your balljoint checked just to be sure(unless you feel compitent to diagnose it yourself)
3) Does sound like a slipping clutch, because of the ammount of work required, I would suggest getting a full clutch kit and have the flywheeel machined to do it right. If it is a turbo, I recommend the cup car clutch disc, I believe that Paragon has them. If it's an NA, I would suggest at least a spring centered clutch disc, the rubber centered clutch is prone to failure.
Your preferences and driving style, possibly racing or AutoX and year and type of car all play a role in choosing any part for your car. Let us in on your plans and preferences and the list should be able to steer you close to where you want to be. Hope to help.
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Originally Posted by Dalilean
To add to my never ending mech quest to finally have the ultimate driving machine (ok, so the word finally will never happen):
1)I took my car to get realigned and noticed that a)my front shocks are almost gone. What performance shocks do you recomend?
2) I also noticed that the pasanger wheel is slightly loose up and down. (this would explain the stearing wheel's vibration at 50. All the bushings are new so that's not it. What could it be?
3) On my drive home I noticed that when I gunned the accelerator with the clutch peddal out, the revs would go up then normalize as if I had the clutch partially pressed then released. It feel as if the force from the engine is loose.
Is it time for a clutch change? and if so, which is best?
1)I took my car to get realigned and noticed that a)my front shocks are almost gone. What performance shocks do you recomend?
2) I also noticed that the pasanger wheel is slightly loose up and down. (this would explain the stearing wheel's vibration at 50. All the bushings are new so that's not it. What could it be?
3) On my drive home I noticed that when I gunned the accelerator with the clutch peddal out, the revs would go up then normalize as if I had the clutch partially pressed then released. It feel as if the force from the engine is loose.
Is it time for a clutch change? and if so, which is best?
1 and 2: My experience has been that a reputable alignment shop will do a quick check of all your suspension parts before they do an alignment on your car, and let you know what they find bad. Did they? "slightly loose up and down".......how did you decide on this, if the shop didn't tell ya about it?
3: Sounds like a sliping clutch to me also. Probably time for new clutch, but, make sure your pedal free play is adjusted properly first, ya might get a little more out of it.
#7
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Just like other said.
1) Koni Yellow's
2) New Ball joints or wheels bearings
3) New Clutch Spring centered
Best to take of this crap before heading to the track. You risk a bad track experinece if you do not address these things.
1) Koni Yellow's
2) New Ball joints or wheels bearings
3) New Clutch Spring centered
Best to take of this crap before heading to the track. You risk a bad track experinece if you do not address these things.
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#8
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Originally Posted by M758
Just like other said.
1) Koni Yellow's
2) New Ball joints or wheels bearings
3) New Clutch Spring centered
Best to take of this crap before heading to the track. You risk a bad track experinece if you do not address these things.![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
1) Koni Yellow's
2) New Ball joints or wheels bearings
3) New Clutch Spring centered
Best to take of this crap before heading to the track. You risk a bad track experinece if you do not address these things.
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#9
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Originally Posted by Dalilean
To add to my never ending mech quest to finally have the ultimate driving machine (ok, so the word finally will never happen):
1)I took my car to get realigned and noticed that a)my front shocks are almost gone. What performance shocks do you recomend?
2) I also noticed that the pasanger wheel is slightly loose up and down. (this would explain the stearing wheel's vibration at 50. All the bushings are new so that's not it. What could it be?
3) On my drive home I noticed that when I gunned the accelerator with the clutch peddal out, the revs would go up then normalize as if I had the clutch partially pressed then released. It feel as if the force from the engine is loose.
Is it time for a clutch change? and if so, which is best?
1)I took my car to get realigned and noticed that a)my front shocks are almost gone. What performance shocks do you recomend?
2) I also noticed that the pasanger wheel is slightly loose up and down. (this would explain the stearing wheel's vibration at 50. All the bushings are new so that's not it. What could it be?
3) On my drive home I noticed that when I gunned the accelerator with the clutch peddal out, the revs would go up then normalize as if I had the clutch partially pressed then released. It feel as if the force from the engine is loose.
Is it time for a clutch change? and if so, which is best?
2)Depends on how it moved. If when it was on the lift, you placed a small wooden block in the inside of the wheel and used that to push down on the wheel with a pry bar, bracing on the A-arm... movement there indicates a bad ball joint. If, however, you grabbed the top and bottom of the wheel and tried rocking it back and forth, that's a wheel bearing problem. Though many times they need replacing, sometimes the bearing can just be loose. First tighten that up, and recheck. If you need help with that process, I'll be glad to post if someone else doesn't beat me to it.
3) ...already been said by everyone else. If you have an early 944 with a rubber centered clutch, upgrade to the srping center clutch and smile
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EDIT: ...I really should take some typing course. My skills are lacking.
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#10
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Hellooooo! The rubber-hub clutch disc has been discontinued for over a year now, maybe two! It's okay everyone, no need to warn him. ![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
"HAH HAH HAAAAHHHHH Soon there will be no more 944s with rubber clutches, and the 944 race shall be without achiles' heel!!! HAH HAH HAAAAAAHHHH!"
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"HAH HAH HAAAAHHHHH Soon there will be no more 944s with rubber clutches, and the 944 race shall be without achiles' heel!!! HAH HAH HAAAAAAHHHH!"
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#12
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FSAEracer03 said it best in my opinion especially about the wheel bearing/ ball joint checking procedure. If its clunking, its the clutch center. You have a SLIPPING clutch meaning most likely its the pressure or the friction material (maybe both). Change everything out unless your time is worth next to nothing.
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If you're going to bother going through a clutch replacement, do the whole thing, spend the extra bucks and do it right - you'll save yourself a HELL of a lot of aggrivation. I know plenty of people on this board and elsewhere that would sooner give their left reproductive organ (male or female, depending) to not have to do that job again!
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Where can I get the best deal on a new clutch kit?
Some are just the clutch disk, pressure plate and throw out bearing; others have the previous plus several rings and bearings. Are these nessesary to do the job or just the basic kit?
Some are just the clutch disk, pressure plate and throw out bearing; others have the previous plus several rings and bearings. Are these nessesary to do the job or just the basic kit?
Last edited by Dalilean; 09-20-2004 at 02:09 PM. Reason: Adding info