Ok, my pilot bearing is getting worse after washing out the grease from water running down that damn inspection hole on the top of the bellhousing. $12 part results in new clutch job on a car with 43.000 miles.

Car is street driven, no track, and no plans to go for 400 RWH. After reading all that I could get my hands on it seems I have 3 choices. Cup clutch, CenterForce and Spec. No puck discs. Spec seems to have a bunch of performance problems, especially if you read the Audi fourms and for a street car you would never go above Stage 2. But under the circumstances it seems like I should forget this option even in Stage 2. Centerforce seems to only have those weights added to the Sacks pressure plate to increase the clamping pressure when it is spinning fast. But apparently those little weights can cause problems also.

So it looks like what I should do is put in the Cup Clutch. Anyone care to correct me if I'm wrong or give me other options?

Now does anyone have an inclusive list of parts I should get (and where to get them would be nice) to do this just once for the next 16 years?

Besides the PP, TOB and disc I have:

(9) flywheel bolts
Rear main seal
TO bearing guide sleeve
The damn pilot bearing
(2) TO lever needle bearings
TO bearing lever shaft
(9) PP bolts
Alignment tool

and maybe:

Clutch fork rod
Clutch fork.

Then I will probably get motor mounts though I don't know if I should go with aftermarket or the OEMs, CV joints & boots (what bolts should I get so they don't back out?) but the joints are OK maybe all I need to do is repack and new rubber boots, and some sort of replacements for the rotted out sway bar bushings and such. Delrin?

Well, that is my list so far. Feel free to add to it.

And besides resurfacing the flywheel and checking for cracks, how much should I have the shop take the flywheel down to sort of lighten it. I don't want to go to an aluminum flywheel.

 

All i have heard was very bad about the aftermarket motor Mounts, like failing in extremely short amounts of time. If your not getting any noise out of your CV's i would take them completely apart clean them and check for pitting and scoring, then if they are good, repack and install them rotating backwards of what they were. And with the flywheel, when they took 5lbs. out of my 924na flywheel they took it out of the back of the flywheel, took quite a bit of material.

I am sure someone else can help with the other questions, good luck,
Mark

 

Yeah, go with OEM only on the motor mounts. At 43K your flywheel might not need resurfacing. Mine did not need it at 199k.

 

If your CV boots/joints are in good shape, just get some fresh grease. I have not had any trouble with the factory bolts. Just be sure to torque them, and mark them with either a dab of paint or Torque Seal Inspectors Lacquer. This makes it very easy to see if they are moving at all.

Your list is pretty good. I would add gear oil and exhaust gaskets:

1 ea 930.123.134.04 #8 crossover to connector pipe
1 ea 931.123.195.00 #11 wastegate to connector pipe
1 ea 944.111.205.04 #5 wastegate to dump tube
1 ea 951.123.134.02 #19 wastegate dump tube to cat pipe
1 ea 944.111.205.03 #14 cat pipe to turbo down pipe
1 ea 928.111.244.02 #20 rear section to cat pipe

Depending on how your cooperative your exhaust is, #5 or #19 may not be needed.

The clutch fork and rod are overkill for your low mileage car. That is unless the throwout bearing has damaged it.

The cup clutch is probably the best way to go, but they can be difficult to modulate smoothly in stop-n-go traffic. When hot it can get grabby and chatter some, unless you rev it a little higher and slip it more than normal. It is a small price to pay for not having to do it every 50k miles like the stock disc.

My car came with the cup clutch from the factory.

 

why not put a stock clutch back in the car, mine was replaced at 45k, I now have 122k on the clock and have not replaced the clutch yet. Most of the miles are to and from work, so there is a fair amount of stop and go driving. Do not take any more off the face of the flywheel than is necessary to clean it up. Removing metal from the friction side of the flywheel messes up the geometry of the release fork. The shims that come with the throwout bearing are there to compensate for a resurfaced flywheel.

 

Actually the aftermarket motor mounts are OEM; the good mounts from Porcshe are OE. I think that's why so many people get burned when a vendor states OEM and they end up replacing them again in 8K miles.

 

I was implying the MM from the dealer.

MArk

 

Well, I'm about to order all my parts this week so if anyone has any other suggestions, tell me them!

MHT, well the Cup clutch is "stock" other than the disc and that is stock on some cars. And I don't want those 6 or so little springs to jump out of the original type disc so that is why I'm thinking the Cup disc. I'm still sort of toying with the idea of the Spec II PP and disc but probably won't go that way as I can't find many good comments from long term users. Even Lindsey Racing has only been selling them for a year now so actual long term history is pretty sparse.

Markey, My CVJs are just fine, my concern is the rubber boots are hard as rocks (haven't split open yet) so I figured I better replace the rubber before they do split. So you and MTH are saying don't mess much with the friction face of the FW and if I'm going to try and lighten take it off the other side, right? I don't have a flywheel sitting in front of me so I can't see where the extra meat is that won't screw up dimensions. I found the machine shop that does flywheels for the local Porsche dealer so I hope he knows what he is doing.

I see Danno advocates sort of pulling the motor and sliding it forward rather than coming at it from the back and dropping the transmission. Has anyone tried this and agree? I don't have a engine hoist so would the oil pan (and pan seal) take the weight of the motor resting on a floor jack and rolling it forward? And how much would you have to pull to get the engine free enough to clear the drive shaft? If it saves time, I'm all for it. And I probably should replace some hoses anyway.

 

You may try emailing Mike Lindsey on the subject of clutches - he's quite knowledgeable on the subject of 951's, and he's very helpful and responds to emails quickly most of the time. Look on the LIndsey racing website and there is a contact email on there you can use.

 

Yeah, the material is taken out of the rear of the flywheel, but they leave a circle of material where it bolts to the crank so it doesnt mess with the thickness of the flywheel.

Mark

 

Well I would not mess with the CV joints till you need to. If a boot rips it will throw grease everywhere, but not much will happen unless you leave it that way for long time. Your CV joints are probably just fine, but I also bet they look bad when you look at them closely.

I replaced a split boot on my turbo. Boot ripped and grease when flying I replaced it within maybe 100 miles. There was still lots of grease in teh CV joint, but I pulled the joint to change the boot I noiced lots of scoring in the joint and replaced it. It however never gave me a problem.

So my point is that if you do the boots you are probably also going to have to do all the joints too. It is not super hard, but it i is a pain to pull the joints off. If you want new I'd advise getting complete 1/2 shafts. A little more money, but ALOT less work and aggravation. You have no idea how measy that grease is. Nasty.

Don't put anyweigh on the oil pan unless you plan on replacing it. Just pull the tranny and do it that way. No that hard. The biggest pain is all the exhause plumming.

 

Of what you have listed the Cup clutch. Should be fine for a daily driver. For those who think the engagement is tricky you havent driven anything with a real clutch in it. 4 puck clutches with 1500lb PP and ultra LW flywheel is "tricky" to engage, a cup clutch is a smooth as a Ranger pickup.

I am with Danno, I would advocate pulling the engine to do the clutch, it might be a litte more work but it sure is easier to work on Plus you can clean up the stuff you have been neglecting.
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I must have been lucky. One quick ping with a hammer and the CV joints separated from the half-shafts, no sweat.

 

OEM stands for ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT MANUFACTURER.....So a sachs clutch would be OEM..and that is what I would buy....For your needs you need nothing more......

DAmian

 

This may help you.
http://www.user.dccnet.com/lance.mason/951%20Clutch.htm