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Rear speaker install

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Old 06-06-2005, 11:29 AM
  #31  
hazlgreen
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I ended up adding a 300W amplifer to the Alipine head unit with the new 4x6's.

Even better news is that my hidden subwoofer from KLA is on the way to my place now!

Pure sound, folks. We'll have pure sound very soon...
Old 06-06-2005, 11:32 AM
  #32  
Campeck
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I also think the ten speakers sounds MUCH better than the 4X6's
those C's and ssss sounds shriek into my ear and kill me! but not with the 10.

atleast stock 4X6's
Old 06-06-2005, 01:29 PM
  #33  
L8 APEKS
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Nooooo, 10 speakers sound better than a pair of 4x6's?!?! You don't say?! hehe!

Anyway...I just put rear speakers in mine with the help of Jeff (PorscheOphile). here's my thoughts.

1) If you're just replacing 4x6's, it's really not that difficult at all. We had to cut mounting plates for 6.5" rounds, and that took a LOT of extra time and hassle.

2) It is IMPOSSIBLE to do this job properly without removing the rear windows; and the rear windows are pretty easy to pop out. Getting them back in took a little more elbow grease, but it wasn't that bad. The reason is, the vinyl actually wraps all the way around the lip where the window sits...it's not physically possible to put the vinyl all the way back in around that lip with the window still installed.

3) The rope/twine trick for re-installation of the windows is a horrible idea IMHO. The only time I started to tear/damage the rubber seal was because we decided to try the twine trick. The twine acted like a band saw and sliced right through the rubber. It's much safer to take the 5 minutes required to just go around the seal with a flat bladed screwdriver.

4) Be careful of popping the screwdriver off the seal under force...I did manage to scratch my tint in a couple places!

5) Getting the panels off/on is only about 5 mins per side. The windows take about 2 mins to pop out, and about 6 mins to put back in. For the first time, with one person to help you, I would estimate 90 minutes just to go slow. But if I had to do this again, I'm pretty sure I could replace 4x6's in about 30 mins total.

Good luck!
Old 06-06-2005, 01:33 PM
  #34  
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2 minutes to pop out?!
it takes me 5 secomds!! lol.

go to the inside of the window. have a buddy catch it on the other side. and PUSH. they pop right out.
Old 06-06-2005, 01:39 PM
  #35  
hazlgreen
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I'm in agreement about the rope/twine. I've damaged my seal enough that I'm afraid to take the windows back out again. I need to because I forgot to put the metal piece around one of them. So far, I'm just living with the exterior imperfection...
Old 06-06-2005, 09:08 PM
  #36  
jeeper31
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Has anybody put 6.5's in the front?
Old 06-06-2005, 09:35 PM
  #37  
Clint's 944
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Using the rope trick is easy as long as you have someone push real hard on the outside. Then a couple tweaks on the corners from the inside and done!

I would like to see someone make some speaker forms for the front doors. I'd like to see some extension from the pocket towards the front with the hole in front os the speaker cutout. It shouldn't extend out too far and would open up a world of possibilities for decent sound.
Old 06-06-2005, 09:44 PM
  #38  
jeeper31
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Originally Posted by Clint's 944
Using the rope trick is easy as long as you have someone push real hard on the outside. Then a couple tweaks on the corners from the inside and done!

I would like to see someone make some speaker forms for the front doors. I'd like to see some extension from the pocket towards the front with the hole in front os the speaker cutout. It shouldn't extend out too far and would open up a world of possibilities for decent sound.
That would be great. I had 5.25 inch conponents in my early 944 and it sounded a hell of a lot better than my 4" components now. Went to a car audio store locally and they said they would fabricate something for about $75 per door.
Old 06-20-2005, 03:36 PM
  #39  
michaelreich
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Jon-

Great information!

Which 6.5" speakers did you use? How deep can you go without hitting the back side?

Thanks!!!
Old 06-20-2005, 05:04 PM
  #40  
pcarphanatik
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Originally Posted by AndyK
I like Andy's idea about cutting the panel. Otherwise, you have a great speaker BURRIED behind a thick panel with small holes muffling the sound anyway.

PS--Sub and good fronts is the way to go IMHO!
This guy is correct. If I had the money I would just disconnect the rears. Mids/Highs coming from behind you just distort the "sound stage". Get some nice components, have some custom kick panels made for the front. Then get a quality amp and a great sounding 8"-10" sub to put in one of the rear cubbies.
Don't forget to rewire with something decent and an Iceshark battery cable/grounding kit will probably help as well.

You're probably looking at a $900-$1000 in parts but your ears will thank you.
Old 06-20-2005, 05:18 PM
  #41  
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I be "that guy"! And every time I use all 4 speakers, then switch to front only (with WOOX sub), the sound comes alive! I fade mostly to the front, and keep the rears on a little for a surround sound effect.
I have $35 Audiobahn 4x6's in the front, and the $150 tiny powered sub sitting on the back deck.

Good enough for me.



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