Bill Elwell

First - Went through a stereo install 6 months ago. After removing the rear windows, I'm a firm believer that it's the only way to go. With the help of a neighbor, the windows came out in less than 5 minutes. Once again, with the help of a neighbor and a length of 3/8" clothes line, the windows went back in even faster.

Second - I'll attach a couple pics of what is behind those panels. Yes you can put up to a 6.5" back there but... You will have to make an adapter plate because the opening in the sheetmetal is kidney shaped. There are actually holes for some sort of square speakers but that's another story.

There are 3 pics attached. One of the just rear speaker opening. The second is of the "stuff" that I took out of the rear speaker opening. The third is a pic of an adapter plate I had made for a 6.5" speaker. If you want to know more about that adapter plate, let me know and I'll put you in touch with the guy that made it.

Let me know if I can help further

Bill

RMills944

I'd go with 6.5" speakers if I were you. The 4x6 just doesn't have the midrange I'd like to have. My plan is to make a sub box that is embedded in the shelf I have going forward from the back deck all the way to the back of the front seats, then down to the floor (where the back seats were). This will have my 10" sub, and 2 6.5" Alpines for my midrange all built into the shelf..

triscadek

Mine don't , I guess others weren't as careful.

Adam H

Do tell.

AndyK

I like Andy's idea about cutting the panel. Otherwise, you have a great speaker BURRIED behind a thick panel with small holes muffling the sound anyway.

PS--Sub and good fronts is the way to go IMHO!

Bill Elwell

Adam - Here is the scoop on those adapter plates. I made the silly choice to use three-way 6.5"'s in the back. I was going to make an adapter out of 1/4" plywood. When I mocked up the installation I found that the trim panel pressed against the top of the mid/tweeter assembly in the center of the speaker. Having a cardboard model of the adapter plate, and a friend that does sheet metal design, I figured I would try a 20 gauge steel plate to save space. My buddy, Les, made a CAD design of the adapter plate and took it to a shop that lazer cut the sucker out of sheet stock.

I think the material and cutting cost $130. Pretty pricey if you are handy with wood tools and don't mind spending the time to make your own adapter. If you are lazy (like me), I'm sure Les would have a new set of plates cut for you. Nice thing is that if you wanted to use different speakers (I highly recommend separates back there - no speaker height problems and you can put the tweeter right behind the perforations) he can easily make a set of plates to your specs.

You can reach Les at lesk@kentronix.net

Happy Motoring

KLR

A quick tip on rope choice: I've found that plastic clothesline works best. It doesn't have strands that can make a mess, it's tough enough, and yet it's thin enough that you can manipulate the seal pretty easily as you're hooking it back over. Plan to pull harder than you would think you'd need to to get the corners back in. I found grabbing the rope with vice grips to be the easiest approach at the corners.

hazlgreen

Ok, there are so many threads on this topic that I'm sure my answer is somewhere, but I'm gong to ask this one directly (so I apologize in advance for giving up my search).

I unscrewed the entire panel, and took the weather strip off of the door. Then I got daring (or perhaps...impatient), and tired to get the factory speaker out without taking the paneling out from under the window (and obviously, left the window in too). Well, that was a bitch, to put it mildly. I couldn't get at the screws at the far edge of the speaker, and I also didn't have a phillips head screwdriver that was small enough either. I know, I know, this was headed for disaster...

So, I gave up for a bit, purchased a short phillips head screwdriver (it also wasn't short enough really), and tried again. I got all the screws out and took out the factory speaker.

An aside: I hate daylight savings time. It leaves me little opportunity other than the weekend to work on car stuff.

No light.
No ability to see small screws.
Problem.

Last night, I was helping a friend film a tv show for a public access channel in VA. I pickup the equipment from the station in advance, and that includes two light kits. Brainstorm!! I hooked up an extension cord from their equipment and placed three lights around the 944 and got to work. Can you tell I want good sound as soon as possible? So it was a struggle, and I had to pull the panel out from under the window, but the first rear speaker is in (I did drop a plastic washer that was around one of the screws into the body of the car...oops )!!

So, long story (sorry), but here is my question:

Is it possible to get the paneling back under the window trim without removing the window? And if not, is it really that easy to get the windows in and out?

In case anyone is curious, I put Pioneer 3-way 4x6's in the back (well, one so far). Model number TS-A4670R.

Oh, one other thing - I only had holes in back for 4x6's. Maybe that was a change in '86 or '86 (the plate blocking the spot for 6.5 speakers, that is)? Not that I am complaining. I want good sound and all, but just getting 4x6 replacements in is enough of a hassle.

Thanks

KLR

Relative to the experience that you've had and what you would need to accomplish to tuck the vinyl under the window seal, yes, it's easier. Just get on your back in the backseat with no shoes on and press both feet against the window -- it'll pop right out into a waiting partner's hands. Roping it back in (with the right type of rope!) is not too tough. There's no real skill to it, and you can see what you're doing as you do it pretty easily.

Dan in Pasadena

Comng late to this thread, but I don't really understand what is being said about 4x6's...do they bolt right in or not (in an '87)? Do 5-1/2 or 6-1/2 round also fit? Or do various model years come with a "one-or-the-other situation"?

Last, would it help or hurt to spray a little silicone spray on the rubber trim to get it to slide over the metal?






if they do, I'll assue

Techno Duck

Dan, i read up alot on this a few weeks ago. So here is what i gathered. 4x6 speakers will fit in any year 944 on the rear. If i remember correctly, after 1987 the cars came with the cutout for the 6.5 inch speakers already, but were covered with a blockoff plate like with what Bill Elwell posted above. Too put a 6.5 inch speaker in, you need to basically reverse (fabricate) the blockoff plate to fit a 6.5 incher and close up the 4x6 precut.

dlknight

Hey all,

Nice one Jon used your guide and now enjoying the sound of my Kenwood 1789ie 6.5" 3-ways . Removing the window is definetly the way to go if you want to do the job properly also give you a chance to sort out any existing creases in the vinyl if you have any. I made my adapter out of 1/8" mdf.

The standard 944 rear panels do affect the sound slightly but it still sounds waaaaaaaaay better than those awful 4x6 paper blaupunkts plus you get to keep the stock look interior.

skene

I'm thinking of throwing something better in there then the blown stock speakers that are currenty in the back of my car too.

Idealy I'd throw in some 6.5" ones but I've got an early car. So how difficult is it to cut out the panel to house a 6.5"?

Porsche-O-Phile

I did it in an afternoon and I was completely new to it. Very easy.

I now have four new 4x6 Blaupunkt speakers and a subwoofer w/ amp ready to go in this week sometime. . . Ahhhh.

Campeck

we converted my interior from the early 4 speaker to the latermodel 10 speaker option.

but we had to CUT the extra kidney shape in it!