Spark, Fuel, NO FIRE!!!
09-09-2004, 02:26 AM
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Spark, Fuel, NO FIRE!!!
Alright, its been 2 weeks and still no go!
1. Fuel is definitely getting to rail
2. Injectors ARE firing
3. Spark plugs ARE sparking
4. Tried new coil, nothing
5. Fuel pump definitely turning on
Anybody have any experience with a no start problem that IS getting a spark and fuel?
1. Fuel is definitely getting to rail
2. Injectors ARE firing
3. Spark plugs ARE sparking
4. Tried new coil, nothing
5. Fuel pump definitely turning on
Anybody have any experience with a no start problem that IS getting a spark and fuel?
09-09-2004, 02:30 AM
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09-09-2004, 08:17 AM
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If its sparking at the plug, its not ignition related if its regular and not irratic. This will eliminate DME relay, DME, reference/speed sensor, coil, cap/rotor/wires, as the source of problem. If you are getting PROPER fuel pressure and injector pulse (unless all 4 of your injectors happens to go bad at the same time), its not the fuel system, regulator, pump, etc. You may want to check the fuel pressure though and the regulator/damper along with pump/check valve can cause low fuel pressure. The last and most likely from what you describe is lack of compression from bent valves or bad timing belt (which equates also to bent valves) unless all your rings decided to go bad at the same time losing compression in all cylinders at the same time (very unlikely). Get a compression tester and see what the numbers are. When you crank, does it turn over and sound like it has proper compression?
09-09-2004, 12:50 PM
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It does feel like it has proper compression. With the plugs out it sounds like a much easier crank. I have tried starter fluid and still not a single fire. Tried replacing cap/wires/coil with no effect.
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09-09-2004, 12:51 PM
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Still need to check compression and fuel pressure to be sure. I did try pulling the fuel rail and cranking it, and the injectors were firing when hooked straight up to the rail.
09-09-2004, 01:22 PM
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Once I had my rotor come loose--it was turning and I was getting spark, just not when it was supposed to. That little screw that holds on the rotor had backed out.
09-09-2004, 01:29 PM
#10
Legoland is right, if you have spark and fuel the car should start, may run like sh*t or not very long at all (i.e. ignition problem or fuel problem).
Check what he suggested.
When you crank it does the tach move on the dash at all?
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Check what he suggested.
When you crank it does the tach move on the dash at all?
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09-09-2004, 04:45 PM
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Rock - Funny you should say that, the other day I pulled a blue bird off of my radiator!
I did a compression test just a few minutes ago. Of course the engine was cold (no way to warm it up!) so not sure that really matters...
1 - 110
2 - 135
3 - 140
4 - 150
110 seems REALLY low to me. And the inconsistancy is quite disturbing. However if a valve was bent wouldnt it dramatically lower compression i.e 50 - 60 or less?
I did a compression test just a few minutes ago. Of course the engine was cold (no way to warm it up!) so not sure that really matters...
1 - 110
2 - 135
3 - 140
4 - 150
110 seems REALLY low to me. And the inconsistancy is quite disturbing. However if a valve was bent wouldnt it dramatically lower compression i.e 50 - 60 or less?
09-09-2004, 05:50 PM
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Because of the fact that it has backfired when the plugs were in the wrong order makes me think its spark timing related. Becuase it shows that there should be enough to spark to ignite it. (I accidentally put the #3 plug on #1, and got nothing but a HUGE backfire)