Thats not good! lol, I have bought 4 sets of plugs easy! lol. So I should prolly figure out what is causing the insanely fast fouling before investing a whole lot more into these things...

 

leaky injectors pissing on the sparkplugs after shutoff, bleeding off the fuel pressure and getting your plugs wet. gas is a fossil fuel, carbon based. Carbon fouling the spark plugs, a black conductive soot on the ceramic insulators in the sparkplugs casing the spark to go for the easiest route to ground, the soot, not jumping the gap. Just my guess tho... Is your battery low? I had this isuue withone car too, gets the plugs wet from slow cranking, that or alot of starting and not alot of driving.

 

recently the plugs have looked a lot cleaner, just wet. I have kept the battery periodically hooked up to a charger to keep it going. I guess I will check good 'ole Clarks Garage for a procedure on checking to see if I have leaking injectors. Would a leaking injector cause immedieat depressurizing of rail, or more slow, cause not more than 1 minute of the pump running I go to pop the cap and not more than a tablespoon comes out.

 

that's pretty quick, not sure if that would be injectors, it's possible and I've seen Audis with CIS do it alot.

 

BTW, you should be able to pull the fuel rail and cycle the key on, but not crank it, to prime the fuel pump. No fuel should come out of the injectors unless you crank it as far as I know of.

 

Geez, also the fuel feed line to the pump from the tank, or the strainer in the tank could be clogged and sucking the line closed, that would be your lack of fuel possibly, I'm still thinking leaky injectors tho.

 

Well thats what I thought. On my old Probe, the pump turned on for about 3 seconds as soon as the key went to the on position, but with my 944 I put the key to on and hear nothing. All the stuff I can find is for the fpr failing closed, making lots and lots of pressure. Is it rare for it to fail open?

 

usually the diaphram goes and it doesn't pull open. You could also jump the DME relay to prime the pump too. Other things, clogged fuel filter, funky ground on the fuel pump(located in the trunk near the driver's taillamp. I'd definately do alot more diagnostic before doing any shopping man. I'm off to bed, I'll catch the update tomorrow evening. Good Luck, Andy Kihm

 

alright, thanx. I have changed the filter. And my fuel rate is 1300cc's/30seconds, and its supposed to be 850cc's. So the flow is great, but its not pressurizing. And I have tried crimping the return line and jumping the DME and the pump quickly goes from a whiny "hey look im pumping" to a low "cant push enough" growl.

 

two of the most common reasons-

DME relay- usually can remove & replace OR give a thump or two & make it work.....

reference/flywheel sensors- OR the flywheel ITSELF- my mech says it will eventually get worn enough to magnetize (OR DEmagnetize?) & not work, EVEN WITH new sensors... He says they saw this at the local dealer when he worked there...

NOw- question- can you JUMP start it? IF so, it is NOT the reference/flywheel sensors OR flywheel- when MY car does it's fu**ing no-start BS, I can't even jump it, but, I CAN ROLL START it! That's why I believe my mech... :-) So, can you ROLL START you'rs?

I saw a BUNCH of replies here going back & forth about plugs & such, so, if I've ignored something by not reading through it all, then, my apologies- just thought I'd mention what's going on w/my German $$$-pit...

 

Jump starting it no, does not work. Roll start it? Haven't tried. The fly-wheel is pretty corroded and nasty looking, and hard to find the TDC mark. However, that is an extremely expensive and time-consuming solution, plus it would help solve the fact that after running the pump and taking off the fuel rail cap, I dont get sprayed in the face. Fuel issues should prolly be solved first, before putting in a new flywheel

 

i see your point- of course, it wouldn't HURT to just TRY to roll it off a time or two to see..... yes... it IS expensive to replace the flywheel- that is why I'm STILL dealing w/it myself.... :-(

 

I may try it and see what happens. Thanx for the alternative idea though, too many times people get stuck on the most common and forget about other stuff.

 

Aaron, no leaky injectors, we pulled the fuel rail and they fired like they should, and after you shut off the car, there was no leakage. Not the reference sensors either. I still think you have FPR/Damper problems. 1300ccs of output in 30 seconds is WAY to high, should be half that.

 

Karl- are you SURE it's not the flywheel itself? How many miles on the car? when the flywheel becomes magnetized, or whatever, it doesn;t matter if the sensors are okay or not.... I'm not sure, as I don't do much of my own wrenching, unfortunately, BUT, I THINK roll-starting it (or NOT being able too) COULD tell us something... might be wrong...