Sticky clutch pedal, hmmm?
#1
Sticky clutch pedal, hmmm?
OK, so I have already done a search and could really find what I need.
Here is the deal, when I depress the clutch pedal and then release it it come back smoothly UNLESS I press it all the way to the floor. If I press it all the way to the floor it seems to hang for a split second and then pop back. So I got to thinking that wasn't right and stuffed my big ole melon head under the dash to get a look and maybe spray a bit of lube on the pivot and such. That accomplished I really didn't notice any change. Push most of the way to the floor and the pedal returns smoothly. Push all the way to the floor and it pops back.
Well, I drive the car to work today and on the way home the pedal actually stayed on the floor at one point. This I find to be odd, since there is a big *** return spring on the pedal which indicates to me that even if there was a massive freakin leak and I lost pressure the pedal would still come back, yes? No? Beyond that I was able to grab the pedal and make it POP back up again on top of the fact that the clutch funtions perfectly.
So I get home and double check and there are no leaks or anything like that. I look under the dash again and eyeball the spring part and notice the shaft bit that goes through it seems to have what looks like a big burr on it that is hanging up on the bracket/spring mount. On closer inspection I notice it is a hole actually machined through the shaft. Jiggle it a little and the pedal moves through its range perfectly until it shifts over a bit and hangs up again.
So, here is the question: Is there supposed to be some sort of stop or roll pin that goes through that hole? Maybe there is supposed to be something there to limit the range of motion for the pedal? I'll post a picture of what I am talking about tomorrow. Perhaps somebody else can post what the same assembly looks like on their car please.
Here is the deal, when I depress the clutch pedal and then release it it come back smoothly UNLESS I press it all the way to the floor. If I press it all the way to the floor it seems to hang for a split second and then pop back. So I got to thinking that wasn't right and stuffed my big ole melon head under the dash to get a look and maybe spray a bit of lube on the pivot and such. That accomplished I really didn't notice any change. Push most of the way to the floor and the pedal returns smoothly. Push all the way to the floor and it pops back.
Well, I drive the car to work today and on the way home the pedal actually stayed on the floor at one point. This I find to be odd, since there is a big *** return spring on the pedal which indicates to me that even if there was a massive freakin leak and I lost pressure the pedal would still come back, yes? No? Beyond that I was able to grab the pedal and make it POP back up again on top of the fact that the clutch funtions perfectly.
So I get home and double check and there are no leaks or anything like that. I look under the dash again and eyeball the spring part and notice the shaft bit that goes through it seems to have what looks like a big burr on it that is hanging up on the bracket/spring mount. On closer inspection I notice it is a hole actually machined through the shaft. Jiggle it a little and the pedal moves through its range perfectly until it shifts over a bit and hangs up again.
So, here is the question: Is there supposed to be some sort of stop or roll pin that goes through that hole? Maybe there is supposed to be something there to limit the range of motion for the pedal? I'll post a picture of what I am talking about tomorrow. Perhaps somebody else can post what the same assembly looks like on their car please.
#5
More likely the slave than master but you generally replace them both at the same time so that is kind of irrelevant.
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#8
Same thing happned to me 2 weeks ago. I also bled the system first, but it didn't last. I replaced the master and slave cylinder, and the pedal feels much more solid. Master, Slave, paper gasket and hose were ~$150 including shipping from Pelican, was shipped out next day.
R.B.
R.B.
#9
That "big assed return spring" is not a return spring, it is a peddle pressure spring. Adjusting that spring changes the force required to depress the clutch peddle. Turn the adjusting nut one way and you get a "light" peddle, turn it the other way and you get a "firm" peddle.
Clutch peddle return is accomplished by the force exerted by the clutch pressure plate through the clutch master and slave cylinders.
If you want to rebuild your cylinders, go to NAPA and ask for their part number 1899, Clutch Master Kit, and then go to either Advanced Auto, CheckerAuto Parts, Discount Auto Parts, Kragen Auto Parts, or Schuck's Auto Parts, or log onto Parts America and ask for part number CSK103545.
Here is a link for Parts America: http://www.partsamerica.com/PartDeta...mber=CSK103545
Clutch peddle return is accomplished by the force exerted by the clutch pressure plate through the clutch master and slave cylinders.
If you want to rebuild your cylinders, go to NAPA and ask for their part number 1899, Clutch Master Kit, and then go to either Advanced Auto, CheckerAuto Parts, Discount Auto Parts, Kragen Auto Parts, or Schuck's Auto Parts, or log onto Parts America and ask for part number CSK103545.
Here is a link for Parts America: http://www.partsamerica.com/PartDeta...mber=CSK103545
#11
First effort to flush and bleed the system. Also check that the blue hose from the brake resvior is not kinked.
Once you have verifed you still have an issue change both the slave and the master.
Problem should be solved by then.
Once you have verifed you still have an issue change both the slave and the master.
Problem should be solved by then.
#13
Well, here is the deal, the clutch slave and master are only a few years old and are in good repair (yes I am bright enough to know to replace both at the same time). I flushed them last summer. I don't doubt that they could be going bad, but I can visibly see the hole in the little rod I wrote about above getting hung up on the bracket. AND when I pry the rod over a little bit it will work perfectly until the rod finally works its way back over against the bracket. So, back to my original question, is there supposed to be some kind of pin or stop in the hole through the rod?
#14
OK, I think I know where you're talking about.
Up under the dash you should see a large spring with an adjusting nut, and a large flat washer on one end, and a white/yellow nylon pivot busing on the other end. One end of the rod ends with an eye.
This end of the rod is clipped to a pin or stud on the clutch peddle. The other end of the rod passes through the center of the pivot bushing and extends a good 1/2" (by calibrated eye-ball ;-) ) through the bracket. With the clutch peddle up, the hole in the rod is about 1 or 2mm past the bracket.
I'm on my third car, and none has a pin through the hole in the rod.
I think you have WAY too much clutch peddle travel. Because of the way this spring/rod gizmo is designed, there should be no more than 1/2" or so of travel, so the end of the pin should never move far enough to actually pass through the hole.
This gizmo that Porsche calls a "Clutch Power Spring" is there so you can adjust the force needed to depress the clutch. If you turn the adjusting nut one way the peddle force goes down, turn it the other way, peddle force goes up.
I'd start looking at the clutch master cylinder push rod adjustment. If memory serves you should have about 1mm of "free play" between the end of the push rod and the "cup" at the end of the master cylinder piston.
Up under the dash you should see a large spring with an adjusting nut, and a large flat washer on one end, and a white/yellow nylon pivot busing on the other end. One end of the rod ends with an eye.
This end of the rod is clipped to a pin or stud on the clutch peddle. The other end of the rod passes through the center of the pivot bushing and extends a good 1/2" (by calibrated eye-ball ;-) ) through the bracket. With the clutch peddle up, the hole in the rod is about 1 or 2mm past the bracket.
I'm on my third car, and none has a pin through the hole in the rod.
I think you have WAY too much clutch peddle travel. Because of the way this spring/rod gizmo is designed, there should be no more than 1/2" or so of travel, so the end of the pin should never move far enough to actually pass through the hole.
This gizmo that Porsche calls a "Clutch Power Spring" is there so you can adjust the force needed to depress the clutch. If you turn the adjusting nut one way the peddle force goes down, turn it the other way, peddle force goes up.
I'd start looking at the clutch master cylinder push rod adjustment. If memory serves you should have about 1mm of "free play" between the end of the push rod and the "cup" at the end of the master cylinder piston.
#15
Thanks Cliff.
When I do depress the pedal through its full travel, that hole just passes through the bracket. And I mean just barely, just enough to get snagged. So I am guessing I need to adjust the pedal freeplay a wee bit. It is kind of hard to get a good feel for free play because the spring seems to be adjusted kind of high. Oh well, time to start the circus act of getting to the pedals.
When I do depress the pedal through its full travel, that hole just passes through the bracket. And I mean just barely, just enough to get snagged. So I am guessing I need to adjust the pedal freeplay a wee bit. It is kind of hard to get a good feel for free play because the spring seems to be adjusted kind of high. Oh well, time to start the circus act of getting to the pedals.