Anyone Replaced a Rear Axle Cross Tube Before?
#1
Advanced
Thread Starter
Anyone Replaced a Rear Axle Cross Tube Before?
As a result of an accident, the bracket on my Rear Axle Cross Tube that the rear control arm is bolted to is bent. Has anyone ever replaced their Rear Axle Cross Tube before? I'm trying to decide if I should attempt to replace this part myself.
Incase the "Rear Axle Cross Tube" is referred to under a different name, here is the part number: 951.331.022.01
Thanks for any information in advance,
Rip Munsterman
Incase the "Rear Axle Cross Tube" is referred to under a different name, here is the part number: 951.331.022.01
Thanks for any information in advance,
Rip Munsterman
#3
Advanced
Thread Starter
M758,
Can't thank you enough for replying to another one of my posts. Especially this one as I didn't think I would get a response.
I notice that in your picture you removed the torsion bar carrier with the control arms, etc. still attached. Is this the best way go? I pretty much have to replace everything on right side of the torsion bar carrier, and it would be a whole lot easier to do it with the carrier freed from the car.
Also, are there any special tools required to do the job?
Once again, I really appreciate your time and help.
Can't thank you enough for replying to another one of my posts. Especially this one as I didn't think I would get a response.
I notice that in your picture you removed the torsion bar carrier with the control arms, etc. still attached. Is this the best way go? I pretty much have to replace everything on right side of the torsion bar carrier, and it would be a whole lot easier to do it with the carrier freed from the car.
Also, are there any special tools required to do the job?
Once again, I really appreciate your time and help.
#5
Race Director
When I do t-bar changes it is much easier to have out as an assembly. That way I can take measurments with bars back in on the ground rather than in the car to get them indexed right. If you are pull the torsion bar carrier out you will need to pull the control arms off the car. You can do it with carrier in the car or out as an assembly. Not much difference either way. If you don't have air tools howeverit might be best to break all the bolts loose with everything in the car. That way you have something to wrench against. The carrier can flop arond and it may be hard to hold it solid to break some bolts loose.
Don't need anthing special, but you will need large sockets breaker bars & vise grips.
If you get a complete rear suspension assembly from parts car you can swap them and not even touch the t-bars or control arms. Where are you getting the parts from?
PS.. I have parts, but I think shipping from Az would be cost prohibitive.
Don't need anthing special, but you will need large sockets breaker bars & vise grips.
If you get a complete rear suspension assembly from parts car you can swap them and not even touch the t-bars or control arms. Where are you getting the parts from?
PS.. I have parts, but I think shipping from Az would be cost prohibitive.
#6
Advanced
Thread Starter
The impact from the accident caused the bracket (circled in red) to bend on the torsion carrier and the brakes to snap off of the control arm. Would it be possible to replace that bracket by welding a new one on? If I removed the carrier, took it to a place to have a new bracket welded on and replaced the broken control arm, would I avoid having to do any reindexing or height adjustment?
I am using my Automobile Atlanta catalog to get prices for parts. Here are a few of their prices for parts I need (these are used parts):
Torsion carrier $250
Control Arm $450
Rear Quarter Panel $300
Do these seem average? If you have any part sources to recommend, I'd apprecaite them. Money is a huge issue.
I wish Florida was located next to Arizona, I'd be on my way to purchase that carrier from you.
Thanks again for your time,
Rip
#7
Race Director
Local junk yard or rennlister with a parts car. Actually I just sold the suspension you see above (minus the sway bar) locally. The guy is looking to put this into a autocross project car. Some kind open top sports racer.
BTW.. the carrier is the same for all 924/944 cars and maybe the same on some super beetles. The control arm is different being aluminim. This comes off of an early offset 85.5 to 86 944, 924S or 86 Turbo.
I' bet you can ship the control arm, but best to get torsion bar carrier locally.
BTW.. the carrier is the same for all 924/944 cars and maybe the same on some super beetles. The control arm is different being aluminim. This comes off of an early offset 85.5 to 86 944, 924S or 86 Turbo.
I' bet you can ship the control arm, but best to get torsion bar carrier locally.
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#9
Former Vendor
You didn't show a pic of the damage, but if the tube itself is good a repair should be possible. If needed an entire new bracket could be fabbed, or the existing one restored, they aren't that complex. This could be welded in place without pulling the torsion bar tube.
Probably a lot easier and cheaper than a replacement tube.
Probably a lot easier and cheaper than a replacement tube.
#10
Burning Brakes
#13
Nordschleife Master
I should be downstairs working instead of up here reading!!!!! It should be done very soon. I have all the pieces painted and at home now. I will post pics later tonite. hijack over.
#14
rbm23...The part number you listed 951 331 022 01 is for the guiding arm. The axle cross tube is 951 331 045 00 for the 86.
I have the assembly out of a 87 944NA if you are interested.
I have the assembly out of a 87 944NA if you are interested.