1.please dont hate me.
2.i checked search thing.
3.i didnt really find my answer.
4.when i spin my rotors, they seem to stop in the same spot....did this since i bought them, but didnt have a shimmy for a while.
5.the car shook with the old rotors.
6.people say have the suspension checked, but i dont see how the suspension would effect this if the rotors stopped when i spin them and the wheel is off and no pressure on the suspension.
7.i have new bearings on all wheels, new pads on all and new rotors up front.
8.would the antisqueak pads prevent this somehow?
9.what exactly would cause this runout when spinning the rotors? when following instructions, it says to check for runout with a dial indicator, if its out to take apart and stuff.....everything seems to look ok(not damaged)
10.is there anywhere online that has lists of torque ratings for any car, like type in a car and maybe it has some torque ratings? i need to work on my girlfriends car.
11.what is the recommended lug rating on our cars? at work, the list says 98ft.lbs. for all 944's. i this maybe my problem? overtorqued lugs that warped my hubs?
12.sorry about the long post.

 

too confusing?

 

Measure the actual run-out and that may give us more clues.

 

My only suggestion would be to recheck the wheel bearing nut - it may be on too tight or too loose.

-Z-man.

 

too tight would do this too? ill get the dial indicator and actual numbers some time after 944 fest. i think its kinda hard going by the directions in clarks and haynes because its not an actual point of tightness(?) on this nut. i can move it with a screw driver, but im supposed to have to apply SOME pressure right?

 

Kenny: that is correct. You should be able to move the washer beneath the nut with a screw driver by applying some light pressure.

You can always remove the hub, and screw it back and repack it to ensure it is on properly.

- Z.

 

yeah i just did that this weekend.........i was hearing some clunking and i was thinking: this is getting rediculous. turns out my rollerblades in the back were making the clunking, but the runout after repacking and tightening still exists. the weird thing i cant understand......or maybe it is the lug torque, is the fact that the shake was present with the old thin rotors, then i changed them, it was gone for a while( yes i had the runout on the new rotors) then the shake returned. but since the rotor and hub are separate pieces, would they even get warped from over torqueing?

 

Yes, if some gorilla overtorqued your lug-nuts in the past, it will distort the hub. Also distorted the previous rotors as well.

Then with the new rotors, they actually go on straight in the begining. But the warped hub eventually warps the new rotor with repeated use. You'll find that your lug nuts may be a little loose after this happens as the rotor warps to conform to the warped hub.

 

well ive had my car for 3 years and it just started shaking around september of 2003. im the only person that touched my wheels besides a shop in july 2002. i torque these things to 98 ft. lbs. i guess ill have to get a dial indicator.

 

What exactly is a dial indicator and what does it do?

 

bolts to a fixedpoint and has a dial, a pointer that sticks out that goes in and out.....measures the distance a certain thing moves in and out relative to the fixed surface that the dial is bolted to .