Paint guys, urgent help needed!
#1
Three Wheelin'
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Paint guys, urgent help needed!
To all paint experts, I shot the paint on my 944 toady, I am using sherwin williams ultra 7000 paint with thier basecoat stabilizer/reducer. The paint was mixed accoringly with the weather in mind. I sanded the car down and primed it with latex base primer. Allowing a day for the primer to dry, I then sanded the primer down and began mixing the basecoat with the reducer. I mixed the paint with the reducer 1:1 exactly as they said in the instruction. Now, for some reason, I am experiencing excessive lifting, and i mean EXCESSIVE all over the car. While spraying the car, I made sure to hold the gun in the right manner, distance ect. and keep the coats thin, however I am still getting excessive lifting. Could it have something to do with the latex primer?
Thanks
Christian
Thanks
Christian
#2
Three Wheelin'
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Latex Primer..WTF..never heard of it.....Who makes this primer you speak of...? ALso yes your lifting can be caused by a number of things....Humidity, the primer is reacting to the base, sprayed the base to heavy in one coat, i guess lifting can be caused by many different things, but mainly lifting is not caused by the base itself, but rather by the surface your spraying to...caused by improper surface prepping, old paints, ****ty primers, etc....
DAmian
DAmian
#4
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Did you use some kind of prep solvent to wipe down the car before you sprayed it? Also did you spray a coat of some sort of sealer before you sprayed the paint? Sealer should have been sprayed to form a barrier between the old and new paint, and also to make the whole car one color before you paint. This makes the paint match on the whole car, all different color paints should be sprayed over a certain color sealer (white,light gray, gray, dark gray, black) so that it looks the correct color.
Good luck
Eon S.
Good luck
Eon S.
#5
Burning Brakes
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Are you joking? If not, latex is not compatable with automotive refinish products and you have a very very big mess on your hands. Tried to pm you ,mailbox is full
#7
Three Wheelin'
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I feel like the dumbst guy in the world. Latex paint is soluble and my expensive automotive paint is definatly not. I guess that is why this happened. I will immediatly begine the process of removal!
-Christian
-Christian
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#9
Burning Brakes
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Not dumb at all. You would be amazed at some of the things my customers try, and they're professionals. Go back to your paint supplier and stay within his system. Ask his advice and things will work out. If not pm me.
#10
Burning Brakes
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The metal primer you used is probably oil based like rustoleum or something similar. You need a urethane or "2k" primer. If you have bare metal make sure you ask for a DTM primer surfacer. If you prime the whole car and sand it properly there is no need for a sealer. Good luck.
#11
Burning Brakes
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Burma- It's always refreshing to see rennlisters helping eachother out.
Christian- Good luck with your repaint, I'm sure everything will work out. Look at it is a good learning experience. I think most of us have made mistakes like this, don't feel too embarrased.
That being said, I about crapped myself when you mentioned the latex primer. I pictured you rolling it on!
Christian- Good luck with your repaint, I'm sure everything will work out. Look at it is a good learning experience. I think most of us have made mistakes like this, don't feel too embarrased.
That being said, I about crapped myself when you mentioned the latex primer. I pictured you rolling it on!
#12
Thefu
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Let me expand on Burma's thoughts.
Go to your paint supplier (NOT Home Depot) and get the literature for the paint system you intend on using. In the literature, it will show compatable primers, reducers, et al. Read this info a few times, and then follow it's advice. Automotive paint is expensive stuff, unfortuanately for you, you found out what happens trying to go the false economy route. You're now going to have to start over and get rid of all that latex gunk (good luck there, it'll gum up your saning paper in no time).
Paint jobs are kinda like computers, garbage in = garbage out. Good chemicals, prep work, technique = good results.
Go to your paint supplier (NOT Home Depot) and get the literature for the paint system you intend on using. In the literature, it will show compatable primers, reducers, et al. Read this info a few times, and then follow it's advice. Automotive paint is expensive stuff, unfortuanately for you, you found out what happens trying to go the false economy route. You're now going to have to start over and get rid of all that latex gunk (good luck there, it'll gum up your saning paper in no time).
Paint jobs are kinda like computers, garbage in = garbage out. Good chemicals, prep work, technique = good results.
#13
Three Wheelin'
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Progresss report:
I have just finished sanding off the coat of automotive paint I sprayed over the LATEX PRIMER. I'll continue sanding the latex primer tomorrow, then lay down the proper automotive primer, sand and paint the car. I only used about 20 oz of paint and reducer thus far, so im pretty sure i'll have enough base coat from now on. (That is of course, if I dont screw up again)
-Christian
I have just finished sanding off the coat of automotive paint I sprayed over the LATEX PRIMER. I'll continue sanding the latex primer tomorrow, then lay down the proper automotive primer, sand and paint the car. I only used about 20 oz of paint and reducer thus far, so im pretty sure i'll have enough base coat from now on. (That is of course, if I dont screw up again)
-Christian
#14
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!!!!!! you need some i guess laquer primer if you are spraying laquer, or eurethane if you are spraying eurethane. You can use eurethane w/ enamel paint also, i would recommend eurethane paint/primers.