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I appreciate wanting the “correct” Porsche radiator (and not wanting an aluminum one)... But if you _need_ a radiator... the Wizard aluminum unit is very nice...
Have you used this radiator? Can you comment on the fit?
No - this is a brand new offering only a few weeks old.
But CSF is a big name in aftermarket radiators known for quality. They've been making 928 radiators for a long time since those have been unobtanium for years. Haven't heard anything bad.
I modified my radiator frame and currently have a Fiero radiator in my 944
[QUOTE=Luis A.;18467899]Not a bad price as far as used rads go but unwilling to risk in short order being in the same place I am now.
Small leak between left side tank and core
The reason I asked is that my radiator had a failure at the radiator vent connection to the coolant expansion tank. I screwed in AN fitting and applied several layers of JBWeld epoxy to seal for leakage. Still functioning after 4 years.
Very annoying, I am also looking for a radiator for my automatic and wasn't able to found one, I installed one of the eBay aluminum and it leaked a ton, not even running it.
For your leak try to press the tabs a bit more on the ends see if it helps with the leak, mine was leaking from there but after the squeeze it worked again, only yo later found that I have a leak in the aluminum core. Sometimes you just can win.
Very annoying, I am also looking for a radiator for my automatic and wasn't able to found one, I installed one of the eBay aluminum and it leaked a ton, not even running it.
For your leak try to press the tabs a bit more on the ends see if it helps with the leak, mine was leaking from there but after the squeeze it worked again, only yo later found that I have a leak in the aluminum core. Sometimes you just can win.
Definitely don't buy those cheap Ebay aluminum radiators! I bought one and pressure tested it at home and it leaked like a sieve. Got it for free afterwards though but ended up buying the Wizard radiator and sending the Ebay one to the curb for scrap.
Luis... gently squeeze the tabs around the end caps as someone suggested... do both sides... cut a bicycle tire tube, clamp it on the ends, block any other holes, pump it up in a bathtub... if no leaks, install and enjoy
Years ago I did this and still daily driving.. seriously
Dan, thanks for confirming the pressing of the tabs has worked for you for so long. I had already thought about pressing the tabs down but didn't want to do it until I had figured out a way to go beyond that for a more permanent solution. I drive my cars long and far and over the years my tolerance for dealing with old car hassles on the road is much lower.
So I rigged up a pressure gauge set up through the small nipple on the left tank and sealed up the large hose nipples with these "rubber freeze plugs" from Amazon (where else?!). The 1-1/8" size fit perfectly and pretty cheap for a set of 4. A small silicone 'cork' from a set of various sizes (the blue one fits tightly) goes on the overflow tank hose nipple. Pumped it up to 22-23 PSI and confirmed the leak front and back; soapy solution made it obvious and confirmed no other leaks elsewhere.
Meanwhile, I located a side tank and seal on eBay so I can remove the tank, which is in good condition, replace the seal and crimp it back which I expect will give me a lasting repair. I'll post more pics of the core and the new seal install in a few weeks. Thanks again to all.
The CSF radiator looks like a quality piece. They also have a fan kit as well. Does anyone know if this radiator and fan kit will with the 968? If so, I may try it out.
Pictures of the core for sure. Once you look in there you might decide its not worth the repair. How are you going to compress the tank while resetting the tabs?
As it turns out the seal from Ebay was too narrow, likely for the early cars radiators. I purchased the uncrimp and re-crimp tools for $40 from Ebay. Not necessary but the uncrimp tool allows to pull the crimp outwards with not too much lift possibly avoiding metal fatigue by too much 'hinging'/metal bending action.
De-crimp tool
Cover removed and old seal exposed. Not sure what purpose the seal 'bridges' serve, not functional for sure, but they were all cracked. Not so the seal, it was compressed and a bit non-compliant, but in one piece. This is a 60K mile car. The core was exceptionally clean. Running a high volume of water from the other end tank showed all tubes passing water at a high rate with none having reduced flow.
I ordered an end tank and seal from Ebay (primarily for the seal) but it turned out to be too narrow, likely for the early cars. Mine is an '87. I then made my own out of some roofing EPDM rubber sheet about 2.14 mm thick. The original seal, slightly compressed was about 1.9mm.
Clamped down hard on the tank and recrimped using a the crimp tool but also a vise-grip pliers set to a stronger crimp than the crimp tool could provide. I had to bring together the sides of the core lip before crimping the tabs down as otherwise they are too far separated from the edge of the tank to entirely lie on the tank's lip. For this I used a large "C-Clamp vise grip pliers.
Pressure test at ~25 PSI demonstrated no leaks. I also pressed in the tabs of the other tank.
Luis, thank you for posting these detailed pictures. My radiator has a leak on the upper drivers side and this post has boosted my confiedence to try the repair myself. If anyone happens to know if those inner side seals are obtainable please share the source. Many thanks and Happy Holidays.
11-16-2022, 11:28 PM
but ended up buying the Wizard radiator and sending the Ebay one to the curb for scrap.
