With in a month or so I plan on starting to redo a lot of my front suspension. I'm looking for recommendations on everything I should replace. I know that right now I plan on getting new Koni inserts, sway bar bushings (how many/what do I need?), ball joints, and the strut mount parts. What else should I look at replacing while I'm in there?

 

strut mounts and bushings, paragon sells it all, I just did this and those definately helped alot. You could also go with different springs. I got some turbo springs for $20 and they seem pretty sweet. There are also lowering springs if you want to go for that. I would just repaint the housings, so that they don't rust too much, and with all that you have listed you should be straight. Also maybe tierod ends.

 

I'm just wrapping up the finishing touches on my rework/upgrade: New strut inserts, dust boots, painted housings, turbo springs (yellow dot x 2), 24 mm front sway bar, new sway bar bushings (inner and outer), new a-arms, new poly a-arm bushings, new ball-joints, new tie rod ends, new fronts pads and rotors, plus a bunch of other stuff I was putting off. Whew, only a month on stands so far, but oh so close.

 

I'd replace the control arm bushings too while you're at it. They are kind of a bitch to remove, but it is well worth replacing them. I had been tracking down front end noise for months and every component I refreshed seemed to get rid of some of the noise, but replacing the control arm bushings got rid of the largest (and last) portion of it. I used the delrin front and Weltmeister rear that Paragon sells. Worked fine on the street.

 

I just took a look at Paragon. The front bushings ONLY for the control arms are $50/side. New arms, WITH the bushings are $50/piece. If I got new arms would I need to replace the ball joints still?

 

Brandon,

I have front Koni adjustable inserts, nearly new bump stops and nearly new upper strut bushings (some call them strut bearings). All items are in great working order and cost much less than brand new. Further discussions can take place via PM.

Regards,

 

The new arms that Paragon sells only include the stock bushings, not the ball joint. I went through this a year ago with my 83. The easiest way to do everything is to buy a pair of new a-arms and make sure they don't pre-install the bushings. (The stock bushings require a hydrolic press to install.) Then get the weltmeister poly bushings and they pop right in. The new delrin front bushings would also work, it just depends on how stiff you want to go. With the new arms it will be easier to install the new ball joints as well because you won't have to drill out the old ones. Just bolt up the new ones and go.

The sway bar bushings could also be replaced at this time. If you're so inclined, a set of Turbo sway bars would go on with no trouble and really improve the car. If you don't have a rear bar, think about adding one. I went all the way to the 968 30mm front bar and Weltmeister adjustable rear bar. It's a great setup, but a bit on the extreme side.

I probably wouldn't make any spring changes to the front without consideration for the rear. If you got an adjustable rear swaybar, Weltmeister or 968 M030, you could use that to dial out some of the understeer that you will add stiffening the front springs. Otherwise, I wouldn't do it.

It's also a good time to consider a strut tower brace. The KLA one is excellent and a good price! You'll have everything apart so it won't add any labor to add one.

Last things to consider are new tie rods or just tie rods ends. That'll firm up the steering a bit. And I had my calipers rebuilt at the same time because they were just sitting there. Of course while the calipers are off, you could put on a new set of stainless steel brake lines.

Tips:
1. When you're installing the new front strut mount, make sure the bearing inside is pointed the correct way. The correct way is with the hard metal side 'down' and making contact with the strut. If you happen to drop the bearing out of the housing and put it back in the wrong way, the other side of the bearing will crack from the weight of the car.
2. Buy a set of spring compressors. They're under $30 and you'll use them more than you think.
3. To get the upper strut bolt off, you'll either need a 22mm deep offset wrench, or a 22mm socket with a hole cut in the side. This is because the strut will spin if you try to turn just the 22mm nut. The Koni shocks have a 11mm bolt head at the top that you can use to stop the strut from moving. However without one of the aformentioned tools, you won't be able to get a wrench on both the 22mm nut and the top of the strut.

That's all I can remember right now. Hope it helps!

 

Thanks everyone.

Joel, you have a PM (in a few seconds anyway).

I've decided to try and keep the car stock right now. It came from the factory with the M404 option, so I have the rear sway bar. Also, if I want to keep things stock, it keeps me from blowing a ton of money on parts that I really don't need yet. The idea right now is just to refresh everything on the car, get myself better, and then start upgrading the suspension.

How much better are the Welt bushings than the stock ones? I'm trying to keep this within a certain budget. That would tack on an extra ~$75 to the total price if I went with welt bushings front and rear.

Tie rod ends sound like a good idea, I'll have to see what my budget for all of this works out to. The steering feels nice and crisp right now, but preventitive maintanace while it's all apart is better than repairing it down the road.

As far as spring compressors go, are the ones Autozone loans out for free ok?http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiB...pring_tool.jsp

 

Brandon,

I had all of the front bushings, strut mounts and bearings, front strut (original Boge) and rear shocks (Bilstein) replaced last year along with one new A-arm (bent) and new ball joints.

I went with stock bushings since I read that the poly bushings transmit vibration and could cause rattles and buzzes to develop. My 83 is strictly a daily driver, not a track car.

I was planning to do the work myself, but had a front end shop do it because they offered me a great deal and the car had to be aligned after the work. I had to go on a business trip, so I dropped it off on the way out of town. Three days later, it was done.

Anyway, it worked out great. The car handles better than ever and steering is much easier. You will enjoy the difference.

Good luck.

 

Well, they don't seem to cause anything to rattle or buzz as you say, but the poly bushings do squeak like mad. This is regardless of the fact that I liberally slather on a bunch of that super sticky special bushing grease. And no, even with the mix of delrin and poly bushings the ride was NOT too harsh nor did it vibrate. Just those poly bushings squeaking.

 

The poly bushings on my 83 daily driver don't make any noise, nor are they harsher than the stock. They do provide a much more positive action of the suspension though. When pushed, I could feel the stock rubber flexing and the suspension going out of alignment. The big plus for me was the ease of install of the poly bushings. They just pop right in! I had to take my arm and bushings to a shop to have them press on the stock ones. It was a PITA!

Manning, maybe it's the delrin ones squeaking and not the polys? Just a thought.

The autozone compressors are good. I used them the first time. The second time I bought my own set. So when I used them the third, forth, fifth, etc time I didn't need to run out. They're fine for the first shot though and you're saving some money.