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We’ll need to put in a new clutch, I knew the transaxle had to come out, I thought that the TT could just be pulled out the back. Well got the TA out and started pulling the TT, so have figured out that it does not drop out! So read Clark’s site and it looks like I have to drop the rear suspension! Did not plan on that, so any tricks or does the rear cross bar really need to be dropped?
You should have enough room with the tube slid back to get the bell housing and clutch out. The only reason to completely remove the tube is if you want to rebuild it.
Having done all this on my own 924S, it's not as hard as it sounds. In fact it's a great opportunity to replace the spring plate bushings. And of course you'll want to rebuild the torque tube as well. On a 35 year old car there's not a lot of argument in favor of leaving anything alone...
I am not overly familiar with the 924 but the below assumes its the same as the 944
On my S2 I was able to squeeze my TT out without having to disconnect the rear brake lines, meaning I dropped the torsion bar tube pivoted on the rear lower shock mounts where they connect to the trailing arm. Youll need to disconnect the rear torsion tube carrier, the banana arm mount and the carrier upper mount (3 mounting points).
I was barely barely able to get the trans bellhousing to clear the spare tire cavity this way, but you may need to disconnect those brake lines. I supported the torsion bar tube with two jacks and slowly lowered keeping extreme attention to the stress of those rear brake lines.
However, I had already dropped the rear suspension the winter before and installed coilovers, refurbished my spring plates and updated all bushings to poly. So, if you have any plans to upgrade/update the rear suspension (bushings, shocks, spring plates, torsion bars, etc), now is the time to do it, and if you decide to do that, then a full rear suspension removal would be required, including disconnecting the rear brakes.
Last edited by walfreyydo; 09-08-2022 at 09:58 AM.
So did you leave the shocks conected? I am going to hold on the total rebuild until later, this started as a clutch replacement but i would like the TT rebuild.
Yes shocks stayed connected and acted as the pivot point to lower the front section of the trans (torsion bar tube carrier). Again whether you need to disconnect the brake lines will be hit and miss - for me I was able to keep them connected and barely barely squeeze the TT out - the main clearance issue you will have is between the spare tire cavity and the bellhousing for the transmission. My spare tire cavity was also slightly dented in.
I think either way you can leave the shocks connected, the main issue will be whether you need to disconnect the brake lines (and subsequently need to bleed your brakes after).
Last edited by walfreyydo; 09-09-2022 at 09:56 AM.
So the TT is out, but the 87 924S has a bar above the torsion tube with two bolts on each side. So even though the you can drop the torsion tube the TT still sites on the cross bar. So the 924 has another support in the back. So now to get that clutch out and I snapped a bolt tonight! It’s never easy!
So the TT is out, but the 87 924S has a bar above the torsion tube with two bolts on each side. So even though the you can drop the torsion tube the TT still sites on the cross bar. So the 924 has another support in the back. So now to get that clutch out and I snapped a bolt tonight! It’s never easy!
The bolt that locks the bar for the clutch fork, the lock nut came loose but the bolt snapped at the housing. Spent all day today. drilling it out. Then had to use a slide hammer to remove the bar, it was really corroded in. Finally got the housing out the sensors and top ground point were really stubborn also. Will ream and tap for the fork bar, and use some Copper-7on all the bolts. Clutch and pressure plate on order. Fidanza Flywheel is being looked at.
The short one was for a dealer diagnostic tool of some sort. It doesn't do anything functionally for the car. On mine I clipped the wire, but reinstalled it so as to avoid having a hole for stuff to fall into the bell housing.
The clutch bar is a PITA for just about everyone as they always get stuck in there.
I just replaced the clutch on my 951/924S two weeks ago. PITA job.
I guess it's too late now but.......you don't have to remove the TT; just remove the shifter lever, remove the exhaust hanger Ubolts, rotate the TT 180 degrees and slide all the way back until the bellhousing hits the spare tire well. I left the extra support brace in place and did not drop the torsion bar housing.
another trick i discovered to get the driveshift splines through the clutch disc on reassembly....put the slave cylinder in place and compress the clutch pedal - it frees the new clutch disc from the pressure plate and allows it to perfectly align with the driveshaft
BTW the threads on the clutch fork pin are M8x1.25
Last edited by joseph mitro; 09-14-2022 at 12:22 AM.
Thanks about the splines, I wanted to also pull the TT to replace the bearings, today I drove it up to Constantine at Black Sea to get his upgrade done. So with a new rear main seal, pilot bearing, clutch and pressure plate, new TT bearings and the half-shaft and front transaxle seal replaced the drive train will be set for a long time.
09-07-2022, 09:07 PM
87 924S torque tube
