Same ol question sorry
#1
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Same ol question sorry
Ugh I well I still have the rough idle after start up problem, problem goes away most of the time after the car is warmed up, but also sometimes, it feels sluggish, or when I floor it, feels like the car is not getting enough fuel or something. I have replaced the norms, plugs, wires, coil, fuel filter,checked for vacuum leak, found nothing. I have a spare afm I am about ready to throw in, I am thinking of getting new injectors,a new throttle valve switch, auxilliary air regulator, and an idle stabilizer. I dont like just throwing these in, since its not cheap, but I cannot find the problem, and neither can any mechanics . Sorry if this has been posted a lot, but is there a darn way to narrow the field down, since a damn injector is around 100 bucks a piece.
#3
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The aux air valve is under the intake manifold about #2 cylinder. I've read that some people have success cleaning the aux air vavle with PBblaster.
The TPS is under the throttle body. The haynes manual has a good procedure for checking the TPS without removing it. Also if it checks out electrically, you can adjust it.
Do you have a rough idle after a warm start as well as after a cold start?
The TPS is under the throttle body. The haynes manual has a good procedure for checking the TPS without removing it. Also if it checks out electrically, you can adjust it.
Do you have a rough idle after a warm start as well as after a cold start?
#4
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yes, sometimes, after I drive for a while and come to a stop, it likes to drop idle, and kind of sputters, and when I start out again, it lags like a fuel starvation problem. Course on some days it runs great. lol
#5
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Does you car have an idle stabilizer? I thought early cars just had the aux air (cold start) valve.
You might check the injection boot. Especially where the hose from the timing cover fits the injection boot.
I had to replace mine last year after I tore it during removal. It was pretty rotted. I tried to repair it with RTV, but it was a waste of time. Huge vacuum leak there. If yours is original, its probably about gone, too.
Any smoking?
You might check the injection boot. Especially where the hose from the timing cover fits the injection boot.
I had to replace mine last year after I tore it during removal. It was pretty rotted. I tried to repair it with RTV, but it was a waste of time. Huge vacuum leak there. If yours is original, its probably about gone, too.
Any smoking?
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#8
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I think the cold start valves, were only on the early 924s, I could be mistaken. I have checked on the condition of the intake boot, and other hoses, and nothing points out in that general direction. I guess I will just start to replace things one at a time. Dont really like doing that, but probably the only route at this time? , actually I have had the car for 6 years, and the fuel pump has never been replaced, but.... lol, I dunno
#9
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Have you tried testing componets before changing them? Uaually all you need is a voltmeter. Try doing searches on the perticular item, Check clarks garage, or try paragon. They may save you some cash. Don't "shotgun"parts until you are not able to do anything else.
Just my .02
Just my .02
#10
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I've had my fuel pump 19 years and the fuel pump has never been replaced. Neither has the aux air valve , TPS, fuel injectors, or fuel pressure damper. It has no idle stabilizer, but it does have a aux air valve.
I have replaced the injection boot, injector seals, FPR (twice), fuel filters (several times), and the pump check valve. I replaced the check valve when the real problem was the FPR. I have a K&N air filter cartridge.
If you think the fuel system is a problem, you can check the fuel delivery. It shuld be 850 cc in 30 s. You should also check the fuel system pressure which should be 29 psi at idle. That's really the only way that you can tell what's goning on.
Any chance your fuel injectors seals are leaking? The kits are like $4 per injector and it shouldn't take more than 2 hours to do that.
I have replaced the injection boot, injector seals, FPR (twice), fuel filters (several times), and the pump check valve. I replaced the check valve when the real problem was the FPR. I have a K&N air filter cartridge.
If you think the fuel system is a problem, you can check the fuel delivery. It shuld be 850 cc in 30 s. You should also check the fuel system pressure which should be 29 psi at idle. That's really the only way that you can tell what's goning on.
Any chance your fuel injectors seals are leaking? The kits are like $4 per injector and it shouldn't take more than 2 hours to do that.
#11
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leak down test? compression test? engine may be tired or head gasket rotted.. Mine was the same way. refreshed head and a new gasket fixed simular problems.