kennycoulter

well i bled the clutch system again......now noticed that yes the pressure seems good, and i was checking for fluid on the fork........theres about a half inch play!!!!!!! when moving it, i can hear a little grinding and the noise changes when you move the fork up or down.........theres tons of play. i am guessing this is the needle bearing problem someone said, but i couldnt believe it was a mechanical problem......but i still dont understand the clutch fully engaging and everything with half travel. and also, if it is the needle bearings, wouldnt the throwout bearing still have pressure on the fork from the diaghram? while i was under there, i noticed what i thought was my oxygen sensor in a remote location.....then i saw the o2 sensor. so i followed the tube up. turns out it is the tube i used to think was the provision for an auto dip stick.....(hey im used to typical transmissions). it has a grey cap on it with a porsche style hose clamp. it actually looks like it wa factory like that. shouldnt this go into my egr/iac/aiv somewhere? it is about 1/4 inch tube or bigger coming from the exhaust it has 2 or 3 brackets coming off of it, but mine arent bolted to anything.....what is this? and also what is the best way to install oil cooler seals? i couldnt find that on clark's either.

83na944

First, I think the capped tube coming off the exhaust is for emissions testing. I've seen diagrams that show a second tube that connects to that tube that I figure ends up in the engine compartment. It should be on top of the exhaust behind the headers, about 3/8 ". If that sounds like what you're looking at, don't worry - it's supposed to be there and is not connected to anything.

The oil cooler seal replacement is on Clarks garage. Click on Garage SHop Manual, then scroll down to oil cooler and click on that link.

You have a half of an inch play in the fork?

kennycoulter

yes.....in and out about half an inch......and maybe 1/16th inch up and down. and i can hear the grinding like the bearings have been dry for ages.

83na944

The needle bearings are pressed into the fork and the pivot passes through them. I don't remember how much play is expected, but I'm in the process of replaceing the clutch and shuld be to that point Tuesday or Wednesday. When I took off the clutch slave cylinder, I remember it was pressing against the fork until I got the slave cylinder almost off. So that the slave cylinder would limit and play in the fork assembly.

I assume your slave cylinder is off when you notice the loosness.

I'm suprised that you can hear a grinding with such a small amout of motion.

You know you'd have to drop the transaxle, torque tube, and clutch housing to get to the pivot shaft needle bearings. That is a whole lot of work.

kennycoulter

i know...and my clutch was just done around 5,000 miles ago. i really dont think ill get to tear into that.

kennycoulter

so can anyone explain the mechanics of the failed bearings, and the play, and the fact that the clutch is still fully engaging? any vendors reading this.......please start letting buyers know that they should buy these bearings along with the clutch kits.

83na944

Kenny,

I'll let you know how much play is in my fork when I get it back together. I hope to work on this week, but it may be Saturday before I get to it.

Is this creating a problem, or are you just worried about it?

Steve

kennycoulter

just worried. since ive had the car trans out already, i know it isnt a big deal and will just be easier the next time. i have someone interested in buying, and i dont want to sell them a pile of crap that will break. so if all it takes is a couple bucks for bearings and some time, i can do that. but i am worried that like the cylinders, i might be putting a ton of wasted effort into this. because i really cant understand how the bearings would make it feel like this.......the clutch is doing the half way travel thing. pulling it back up with my foot.

83na944

Is the rod from the clutch slave cylinder tight against the fork without depressing the pedal?

kennycoulter

yes...cause when i bled the clutch using the clarks one person method(pumping the rod on the slave) i went to put it back in and it was already depressed and against the fork. so i must be riding the clutch huh?

83na944

No, it's supposed to be against the fork all of the time. When you release the clutch pedal, the hydraulic pressure is released, so theres no real force on the fork, but it should keep IIRC there is a spring in the slave that keeps the rod against the fork.

kennycoulter

im pretty sure mine stays against it.....but wouldnt the pressure from the clutch fingers press everything back? did you say you DO have that much travel in and out on your fork? or is your trans out yet?

83na944

Sorry, the clutch housing is still on the garage floor. It may be a few days before I can get to it, but I'll let you know.

83na944

Kenny,

Got my clutch housing back on today and checked for free play. The slave cylinder is tight agains the fork and there is NO play in the fork.

I can't imagine how you could have that much play in your fork. If the bearings were completely missing, you shouldn't have that much movement.

Sorry I could offer any insight into you probelm.

Steve

Lousailor

There is about a half inch of play in the fork when the slave cylinder is detached though. It's just the fork flopping between the throwout bearing and the pressure plate. The internal spring in the slave cylinder will keep the fork from moving when installed. To check for operation you need to have someone depress the clutch pedal while you watch the fork through the inspection hole (layed out in Haynes too). You may just need to adjust the pedal mechanism. There are two places to adjust the throw and the point of engagement.