Looking at the spray guns
#1
Three Wheelin'
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I've been looking at spray guns and I'm wonder which one to go for, they are anywhere from $14 to $120 I just want to be able to do this paintjob on my car without having to spend an arm and a leg.... what do you guys think of these?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...324&pricetype=
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...324&pricetype=
#2
Three Wheelin'
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I have used a HVLP gun recently they are a little different than the normal can type gun but they work good,I liked it. Less likely to run. Less paint overspray.
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i buy mine from KOI and they are about 100 for a nice hvlp w/ at least a 14 or if you can find it 13 sized nozzle. Less size the finer the spray, but 14 is optimum for primer and paint.
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Three Wheelin'
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so size in nozzle would be something to look at, okay, but i am really looking at this $40 one it says the nozzle size is 1.44mm, how does that relate to what you are tlaking about?
#12
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Use a SATA HVLP gun.
#13
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2tight, yes, I am definately planning on doing alot of practice first and really trying to do a good job of this, and if not then its no big deal, basically its just a learning process, something that I have always wanted to do myself, so I just said what the hell go for it.
#14
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007'
I've got the same Harbor Frieght gun you show. I use it for primers only and it works fine knowing I'll be sanding out any flaws. I've tried it for base and clears on parts hanging on a rack with mixed results. I also use mine for woodworking projects with lacquers and acrylics, low overspray and very little bounce back. Any HVLP conversion gun (non-turbine compressor) like this HF one will require a pretty stout air compressor, much larger than whats required for a conventional spray gun. Check the rating on your air compressor, mine is a 6HP-30 gallon and I still run out of air if I work too long. Make sure yours can provide at least 10 cfm @ 15 psi although it works better at higher pressure but the cfm requirements go way up making for shorter spray durations. Try to get the 1.3 mm tip or smaller; the provided tip is too large and will spit at lower psi settings. In short it works OK but I don't think I have the skills to risk using it for anything but body touch up work with non-metallics. I've always done all the prep work and sanding myself then pay a pro to spray the base and clear. Check out where street rodders meet up, I'll bet you'll find someone who will do the finish spray on a weekend. I've done 2 cars that way with very good results and he charged me $200 with my paint.
Good Luck with your project, sounds like fun.
I've got the same Harbor Frieght gun you show. I use it for primers only and it works fine knowing I'll be sanding out any flaws. I've tried it for base and clears on parts hanging on a rack with mixed results. I also use mine for woodworking projects with lacquers and acrylics, low overspray and very little bounce back. Any HVLP conversion gun (non-turbine compressor) like this HF one will require a pretty stout air compressor, much larger than whats required for a conventional spray gun. Check the rating on your air compressor, mine is a 6HP-30 gallon and I still run out of air if I work too long. Make sure yours can provide at least 10 cfm @ 15 psi although it works better at higher pressure but the cfm requirements go way up making for shorter spray durations. Try to get the 1.3 mm tip or smaller; the provided tip is too large and will spit at lower psi settings. In short it works OK but I don't think I have the skills to risk using it for anything but body touch up work with non-metallics. I've always done all the prep work and sanding myself then pay a pro to spray the base and clear. Check out where street rodders meet up, I'll bet you'll find someone who will do the finish spray on a weekend. I've done 2 cars that way with very good results and he charged me $200 with my paint.
Good Luck with your project, sounds like fun.