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Looking at the spray guns

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Old 04-07-2004, 06:03 PM
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Macfreak007
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Default Looking at the spray guns

I've been looking at spray guns and I'm wonder which one to go for, they are anywhere from $14 to $120 I just want to be able to do this paintjob on my car without having to spend an arm and a leg.... what do you guys think of these?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...324&pricetype=
Old 04-07-2004, 06:06 PM
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944_S_TYPE
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I have used a HVLP gun recently they are a little different than the normal can type gun but they work good,I liked it. Less likely to run. Less paint overspray.
Old 04-07-2004, 06:11 PM
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Geo
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HVLP also requires less compressor output as well.
Old 04-07-2004, 06:13 PM
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HVLP, High volume (paint) Low Pressure (air)
Old 04-07-2004, 06:14 PM
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Macfreak007
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yeah, definately going HVLP, just need to know if there is much difference in the prices and quality....
Old 04-07-2004, 06:16 PM
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xsboost90
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i buy mine from KOI and they are about 100 for a nice hvlp w/ at least a 14 or if you can find it 13 sized nozzle. Less size the finer the spray, but 14 is optimum for primer and paint.
Old 04-07-2004, 06:22 PM
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Peckster
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Do you have a booth to spray it in?
Old 04-07-2004, 06:23 PM
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Macfreak007
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so size in nozzle would be something to look at, okay, but i am really looking at this $40 one it says the nozzle size is 1.44mm, how does that relate to what you are tlaking about?
Old 04-07-2004, 06:24 PM
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going to hang up staticy plastic and make a makeshift one in the garage
Old 04-07-2004, 09:44 PM
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Macfreak007
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anyone, good reccomendation on a spray gun?
Old 04-07-2004, 11:05 PM
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Ron Knowles
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Default spray gun

Use a SATA HVLP gun. They work. If you want I'll send pictures of my 930 I just shot at home.
Old 04-07-2004, 11:28 PM
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Use a SATA HVLP gun.
Agreed, SATA is the best but very, very pricey. Even the best gun won't make just anyone a good painter. Use to be the home guys could just lay down layer after layer of lacquer with lots of rubbing out in between. With todays urethanes and catalyzed finishs I hope you have a few practice doors or hoods to work with because it can be pretty tricky real fast.
Old 04-08-2004, 12:01 AM
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2tight, yes, I am definately planning on doing alot of practice first and really trying to do a good job of this, and if not then its no big deal, basically its just a learning process, something that I have always wanted to do myself, so I just said what the hell go for it.
Old 04-08-2004, 01:51 AM
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007'
I've got the same Harbor Frieght gun you show. I use it for primers only and it works fine knowing I'll be sanding out any flaws. I've tried it for base and clears on parts hanging on a rack with mixed results. I also use mine for woodworking projects with lacquers and acrylics, low overspray and very little bounce back. Any HVLP conversion gun (non-turbine compressor) like this HF one will require a pretty stout air compressor, much larger than whats required for a conventional spray gun. Check the rating on your air compressor, mine is a 6HP-30 gallon and I still run out of air if I work too long. Make sure yours can provide at least 10 cfm @ 15 psi although it works better at higher pressure but the cfm requirements go way up making for shorter spray durations. Try to get the 1.3 mm tip or smaller; the provided tip is too large and will spit at lower psi settings. In short it works OK but I don't think I have the skills to risk using it for anything but body touch up work with non-metallics. I've always done all the prep work and sanding myself then pay a pro to spray the base and clear. Check out where street rodders meet up, I'll bet you'll find someone who will do the finish spray on a weekend. I've done 2 cars that way with very good results and he charged me $200 with my paint.
Good Luck with your project, sounds like fun.



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