In order to fix my car properly I need to remove the engine. It looks like the RMS is leaking and It has that whining noise coming from the timing belt so I like to get that situated. Anyhow reading archived forums and Clark's garage it looks like the engine needs to be dropped down from the bottem. I was reading that I need to raise the car 21" is that accurate? If I get the car that high I can just slide the engine out from underneath.

 

I'd say, 3 blunts

 

that's what got me into this mess!!!

 

I put the rear up on ramps (jacked up each wheel and placed under, not driven onto them). Then the front comes up in steps to a 24" height of the frame rail in the center of the wheel opening. This keeps the car from being at such a drastic angle and is more stable.

With the radiator/condenser out and the intake off, I'll drop the engine out attached to the cross member complete with suspension by unbolting the torque tube to bell housing, control arm to body, sway bar link to body, and strut mount to body. I'll usually use a rug or piece of carpet on the floor to set it on, then drag out through the wheel opening.

 

I don't know what's easier but when I fixed my RMS I left the engine in place and removed the transmission, shoved the torque tube backwards a bit, and had plenty of access to the rear of the engine. For sure, if you remove the engine, you'll have access to be able to clean all kinds of things that are otherwise really difficult with the engine in the car.

I don't know if there are other things that you want to get done, but fixing the RMS and redoing the timing isn't necessarily an engine out job. It's also the case that I've only ever helped remove an engine from a car once in my life, so it seems freaky to me.

Good luck

 

I took mine out from the top. It only took about 2 1/2 hours. It was easy.. Look for an article called "engine out the top easy peasy". It gives you step by step directions. Good Luck.

 

I was thinking of it when I was under the car. Can I just remove the starter and bell housing and make enough space to get to the RMS or do I have to remove the transmission and torque tube and drop it as one pieace.

 

I have never done the job but I would visualize that removing torque tube and transmission as one assembly is tooheavy and a long moment arm with the weight if the transmission, too much misalignment. Remove the transmission first, then the torque is pulled back, then have access to bell housing, etc.

My sequence might not be entirely correct but Clarks Garage has the procedure. To properly install the RMS, make sure the seal lip edge is lubricated and goes to the engine. The seal might need hyploymer blue sealant on the outside circumference for a tight fit. Make sure there is no groove on the crankshaft where the lip seal rubs otherwise a sleeve and oversize RMS need to be used. Very critical to have the ability to install the RMS straight and seated

 

Wait, you want to remove the engine just to do the RMS and adjust the balance belt?

Don’t do that, just remove the trans and slide the torque tube back as if you were doing a clutch and proceed that way instead. As for the whine from your balance belt, it’s just too tight so loosen it to spec.

 

@Bennys86944 : You won't have enough room just removing the starter and other things. If you go this route, you need to remove the transmission to make enough space to move the torque tube back. Then you'll have more than enough space to get the bellhousing off and have access to the clutch bits and, eventually, RMS.

As a bonus, with the transmission, you can take a little time to freshen up the mount, if it's original, as well as inspect the parts of the clutch (like the fork and its bearings) that are otherwise buried.

Now, that's all probably true with removing the engine, too. If you've done it before and aren't a big chicken, like me, I've also read that easy peasy article and they do make it sound like it's not much of an issue. Plus, if you remove the engine you'll have a ton more space to get the pilot bearing out, which I thought was a massive PITA, though different people have very different experiences. I'm happy to share what I did, if you run into trouble.

Cheers

 

Removing the transmission vs removing the engine: I've done the former, not the latter, but I can say that transmission is not so bad provided you have a transmission jack or some appropriate substitute. Oh, and a nice vulgar vocabulary dealing with that spare tire wheel well.. the plastic shift rod tube.. plus the exhaust fastners.. and shoving that shift rod forward.. and, well a few things actually

 

do you want to change the RMS while sitting in a chair behind the engine, or on your back on cold concrete?

pulling the engine is easy enough and allows access to lots of other things "while you're in there". lots of seals, some degreasing, maybe change the engine mounts too?

 

Nothing wrong with pulling the motor and doing a full reseal, etc., but if all you want to do is change the RMS and stop the b/s from whining, then MAGK944 is spot on I'd say. Adjusting the belts is at least as easy to do (if not easier) in the car. I've pulled motors on these cars, and done the RMS/Clutch on my back without pulling the motor, and I'd say doing it with the motor in the car will take significantly less time, and require you to buy fewer parts/seals, etc. that will inevitably need replacement when you pull the motor. Just depends how much you want to do while you're in there. If a lot, pull the motor. If just those two things, leave it in. I also broke down and bought the factory RMS seal installation tool after twice using homemade tools that resulted in RMS leaks. I'd highly recommend it.