how the heck do i bust this bolt loose (pics of failed attempts)
#17
Three Wheelin'
If you get it glowing orange with an acetylene torch, it will slip off like butter. Acetylene torch kits can be found pretty cheap, and become very handy when working on weathered undercarriage bolts.
#19
Rennlist Member
I always have luck on those types of bolts with my shade-tree impact wrench -- i.e., a box end wrench and a metal hammer. Or, a big breaker bar like everyone else has said. I used a 3 foot bar on my main pulley bolt, and still had to pull as hard as I could.
#21
Drifting
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ok. tried putting a box end wrench on it then jacking a jack up under the wrench. well, the wench was at one point supporting the weight of the car. i noticed the car was lifting off my big orange floor jack so i scrapped that idea. tried hitting the wrench with a BIG hammer filled with sand. no luck
i gave up. i guess im just gonna lift the other side back up and leave it at stock height....
i gave up. i guess im just gonna lift the other side back up and leave it at stock height....
#22
Nordschleife Master
Get the EXTENDOR on your side!
Seriously all you need is more leverage...
Even some old vacumn piping might work...I've used that for a while and it took a long time for it to bend. Even when it did it was only at the openings on either side, no big deal.
Seriously all you need is more leverage...
Even some old vacumn piping might work...I've used that for a while and it took a long time for it to bend. Even when it did it was only at the openings on either side, no big deal.
#25
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Leverage and strong tools. Go beg/borrow/rent a 3/4" or 1" drive breaker bar and socket in same drive size, get a peice of pipe 3 to 5 ft long and bingo, done deal. Brace yourself! I personally don't like the heat idea on/near a shaft that you can ruin the temper in it by turning it blue if not really careful. The "jaw" comment sounds about right also!
#26
Race Car
Looks to me like at the right angle, you could use almost a 3' bar, and if you were able to lift the car higher (don't know the best way to do that), maybe a 4' bar.
Just make sure the socket stays fully on the head of the bolt, you don't want to round that sucker.
Just a quick thought, is it locktite'd in there or something? Because if it's torqued to like 200lb/ft, you're going to have fun tightening it back up.
Just make sure the socket stays fully on the head of the bolt, you don't want to round that sucker.
Just a quick thought, is it locktite'd in there or something? Because if it's torqued to like 200lb/ft, you're going to have fun tightening it back up.
#28
Rennlist Member
Well, if the the wrench was supporting the weight of the car....this doesn't sound very good. Somebody must have used some crazy *** loctite. Heat everything up with a torch, and then ice down the bolt, and try again.
#29
Rennlist Member
i did a whole range rover transmission, and the underbody was so rusted we had to have 400 dollars of welding done to the bottom with steel plates put on it to hold it together.. and i got through it all with a breaker bar, a pvc pipe, and an old iron pipe from around the yard, and my foot. (belive me, lay on y our back, prop yourself, push with your foot. works just about everytime.
oh.. and you can try spraying the bolt with break away once or twice a day, each day for like a week, then try it. or definately try heat. its cheap, and it works.
oh.. and you can try spraying the bolt with break away once or twice a day, each day for like a week, then try it. or definately try heat. its cheap, and it works.
#30
Race Director
Here's how I do this, and I have lowered 5 944's now this way.
You need:
A 5' 1" ID pipe
A 24" breaker bar (with a swivel end)
A 6" socket extension.
Some PB blaster
Soak the bolt/nut with PB blaster. The swivel head breaker bar in conjunction with the 6" extension will be enough to allow your 5' pipe (that is slipped over the breaker bar) to clear the fender. This should break the bolt free with minimal effort, and not much $$$ for tools.
HTH.
The
You need:
A 5' 1" ID pipe
A 24" breaker bar (with a swivel end)
A 6" socket extension.
Some PB blaster
Soak the bolt/nut with PB blaster. The swivel head breaker bar in conjunction with the 6" extension will be enough to allow your 5' pipe (that is slipped over the breaker bar) to clear the fender. This should break the bolt free with minimal effort, and not much $$$ for tools.
HTH.
The