Manning

You also have to hold your jaw just right.

Mike Murcia

If you get it glowing orange with an acetylene torch, it will slip off like butter. Acetylene torch kits can be found pretty cheap, and become very handy when working on weathered undercarriage bolts.

Mike B

You can also rent impact guns if you don't want to buy one. I have several and they have paid for themselves about a thousand times.

Tom M'Guinn

I always have luck on those types of bolts with my shade-tree impact wrench -- i.e., a box end wrench and a metal hammer. Or, a big breaker bar like everyone else has said. I used a 3 foot bar on my main pulley bolt, and still had to pull as hard as I could.

David Floyd

I bought a cheap electric impact wrench from Harbor Freight, seems like it was on sale for $40, zipped that bolt right off.

Cass944

ok. tried putting a box end wrench on it then jacking a jack up under the wrench. well, the wench was at one point supporting the weight of the car. i noticed the car was lifting off my big orange floor jack so i scrapped that idea. tried hitting the wrench with a BIG hammer filled with sand. no luck

i gave up. i guess im just gonna lift the other side back up and leave it at stock height....

adrial

Get the EXTENDOR on your side!

Seriously all you need is more leverage...
Even some old vacumn piping might work...I've used that for a while and it took a long time for it to bend. Even when it did it was only at the openings on either side, no big deal.

Cass944

theres no place to put a pipe. the wrench is like 4 inches off the ground

adrial

You can't change the angle of the wrench to give you more clearence, clarence?

Granite 944

Leverage and strong tools. Go beg/borrow/rent a 3/4" or 1" drive breaker bar and socket in same drive size, get a peice of pipe 3 to 5 ft long and bingo, done deal. Brace yourself! I personally don't like the heat idea on/near a shaft that you can ruin the temper in it by turning it blue if not really careful. The "jaw" comment sounds about right also!

Zero10

Looks to me like at the right angle, you could use almost a 3' bar, and if you were able to lift the car higher (don't know the best way to do that), maybe a 4' bar.
Just make sure the socket stays fully on the head of the bolt, you don't want to round that sucker.

Just a quick thought, is it locktite'd in there or something? Because if it's torqued to like 200lb/ft, you're going to have fun tightening it back up.

MTM

Roger, Roger. What's our vector, Victor?

Dmitry S.

Well, if the the wrench was supporting the weight of the car....this doesn't sound very good. Somebody must have used some crazy *** loctite. Heat everything up with a torch, and then ice down the bolt, and try again.

Yabo

i did a whole range rover transmission, and the underbody was so rusted we had to have 400 dollars of welding done to the bottom with steel plates put on it to hold it together.. and i got through it all with a breaker bar, a pvc pipe, and an old iron pipe from around the yard, and my foot. (belive me, lay on y our back, prop yourself, push with your foot. works just about everytime.
oh.. and you can try spraying the bolt with break away once or twice a day, each day for like a week, then try it. or definately try heat. its cheap, and it works.

tifosiman

Here's how I do this, and I have lowered 5 944's now this way.

You need:

A 5' 1" ID pipe
A 24" breaker bar (with a swivel end)
A 6" socket extension.
Some PB blaster

Soak the bolt/nut with PB blaster. The swivel head breaker bar in conjunction with the 6" extension will be enough to allow your 5' pipe (that is slipped over the breaker bar) to clear the fender. This should break the bolt free with minimal effort, and not much $$$ for tools.

HTH.

The