Zirconocene

Lots of work planned for non-engine bits on the front of the car and as I was poking around it's become pretty clear that the power steering leak on my car is coming from the rack, and not the pump, reservoir, or any of the lines.

It looks to me like there are rebuild kits available for less than $100, or rebuilt racks in the $380 range. I am leaning toward the rebuilt rack as I have never rebuilt something like that, but I also like the idea of being able to say that I rebuilt my power steering rack. I'd really like for it to work, however, the first time.

Now the questions:

1) How hard is it really to rebuild the rack? I've replaced the rear main seal on my car, if that helps to level set for my wrenching skills. So far, no more leaks back there.
2) If a rebuilt rack, any experience or preference with Maval vs. Atlantic Enterprises? Those are what Paragon offers and they have the best price that I have found.
3) If neither of the above, do I blow up the whole thing and just convert to a manual rack? How does that work compare to options 1 or 2, from a wrenching skill perspective? I am aware of only one source for the conversion hardware but if there are multiple, I would love to hear about them.

Thanks

16again2009

I rebuilt the rack on my 1988 924S. It was not hard at all. There is a good video on line with step by step procedures. The only problem is it still leaked. So I bought a rebuilt rack from the Rack Doctor for about $200.00. It works perfect. Ive had it for about a year now. You might give him a call.

ElRicardo

Here is my 2 cents- I have semi-successfully rebuilt 3 racks using the kits, but not one really sealed up well. In my defense, not one was really sealed up well before!!! The challenge appears to be be properly seating without damaging the seal that is placed at the far end of the tube that is maybe 12 inches long. The seal must be pressed into a recess way down the tube, and to do so right and painlessly probably requires a special tool. I have had some form of leak on all three, very slow, but still a leak. So going forward I am out of the rack rebuilding business and will use rebuilt going forward!

Zirconocene

@ElRicardo : That is exactly my concern. It seems like it's something that's specialized enough that the chance of success for the dabbler (me) is not so high. I looked up what the Rack Doctor offers and I have to say I am impressed with the pricing. So far, that's in the lead, unless there are aspects to the manual rack conversion that might sway things for me. I have to say that this is looking a lot less dire than what I initially thought.

ElRicardo

Geez- just up the road from my old home in SC. I like the prices too, so like you, my next rack will be a rebuilt from these guys. Seem like every 944 I touch needs a rack, and I can get the old out and the new one installed in about 1-2 hours, and whenever I do this I do motor mounts as well, as loosing the cross support really makes slipping a rack on so much easier.

DSMblue

I have sourced rebuilt racks from Zims Autotechnik in Texas for both the 944 and the 968, and they have performed flawlessly. Sometimes its just way quicker to pay some extra money and get the car back on the road faster.

GrantM

I have a Zims rebuilt rack and it has worked great for 6 years now. I replaced all of the lines and the reservoir at the same time.

Zirconocene

@GrantM: Did you also replace the funky cooler line that's tucked into the bumper? How much of a PITA was that, if so?

DSMblue

I have replaced that line before, It wasn't terrible IIRC. Fiddly, yes, but a lot of the projects on these cars end up being like that.

Zirconocene

@DSMblue : Good to know, thanks. I have a set of new radiator hoses from Lindsey Racing that I plan to install so it might not be a bad idea to address some of the old power steering hoses while I'm in doing other work in there. I had great luck getting a high pressure hose rebuilt at the local Pirtek so I have some confidence that this WYAIT won't be too much of a problem.

Cheers

DSMblue

Agree, but it's one of the things that kind of drives my spouse crazy (WYAIT). That's how my replace the fuel return line from the hard line to the fuel level sensor morphed into also replacing the fuel filler neck gasket, new fuel strainer, taking fuel pump off to place back into its original rubber sleeve and get a bunch of nuts/bolts, etc. replated. But at least I know everything will be working properly and look nice for the next 20-30 years!

GrantM

I did replace the line with cooler loop on it. Not as bad as it looks. Raise the headlights. Need some universal joints to access the clamps.

Zirconocene

@GrantM : Thanks. I have started removing a lot of the front end bodywork to address other things I'm working on and I agree that it's not too bad once you get into it. I think that cooling loop is low pressure so that will be easy to address with some new hose and clamps and access should be a breeze once I get the front bumper off. Good times ahead.

Cheers

DSMblue

If the front bumper hasn't been off before, that can be enlightening. One of the bolts on mine needed heat to be able to remove it.