RTK

Hi All. I am replacing an engine in my 1984 944 due to the previous owner overheating it badly and scoring the cylinder walls significantly. I stripped a replacement motor (used) and it inspected fine, and have the short block in the engine compartment along with a new clutch. The challenge I'm having is trying to get the input shaft into the clutch and pilot bearing. I've confirmed multiple times with the clutch alignment tool that things are aligned, I've measured the distance from floor to input shaft and aligned the bell housing to the input shaft, I've used a level to make sure that both were oriented correctly... but no matter what I do, I cannot get the input shaft splines to slide completely in. I have a 1.5 - 2" gap between the bell housing and the mounting plate from the torque tube.

Are there any tips or tricks to getting the engine back onto the input shaft? Even Clark's instructions suggested that it shouldn't be too difficult, but 2 weekend days later, I'm still no further along in just trying to get the input shaft seated.

Thanks in advance!

V2Rocket

install the slave cylinder and depress the clutch pedal (or get a big c clamp and clamp the clutch fork).

sometimes the clutch disc needs to be a little loose from the PP/FW to let the shaft splines slide through.

RTK

Thank you, V2Rocket. I did install the slave cylinder and had my son depress the clutch while wiggling. Sadly that didn't work either. But great thought!

I have to admit that I regret not taking the new clutch disk and passing it over the splines before installing onto the engine. I'm almost (almost) tempted to remove the clutch assembly and build from the input shaft out... but not sure that would work either.

V2Rocket

alternatively, if your driveshaft is a little loose, you can pull the shaft backwards in the tube (from the back), bolt up the tube to BH, and then slide the shaft into the clutch/pilot bearing (be somewhat gentle).

the rear end of the driveshaft should be ~49mm inset from the face of the torque tube/trans mating flange.

RTK

@V2Rocket - Thank you! That may be a better way about it as I'm on the edge of using some objects with a lot of mass at the end to persuade the engine and input shaft to mate up. I'll give your suggestion a try this weekend!

V2Rocket

rubber mallet and a block of wood over the end of the shaft...light taps..

Van

Are you trying to mate the torque tube up to the engine (meaning the engine is already in the car on its mounts)? Or are you trying to mate the engine up to the torque tube (meaning the torque tube and transmission are in place and you're swinging the engine around)?

I've always had much better success with the first method.

RTK

I had to replace the engine, so it's the first scenario: engine (short block) is loose and the subframe is dropped from the car. I was hoping not to have to drop the transaxle and torque tube. But I think V2Rocket's suggestion may be best... to drop the transaxle and move the input shaft rearward so that the torque tube can be mated to the the engine and I can situate the engine back onto the subframe. Hopefully alignment will be assured then... and then I can move the drive shaft forward and it will seat into place. Fingers crossed!

Van

I think you misunderstand me - the first method it the "drop the transmission and move the torque tube back" method. If you have the subframe off and have the engine suspended by a hoist, you have much more to align. It's easiest to have the engine on the mounts, on the subframe, the transmission out. Then, under the car, you can lift the front of the torque tube up and push it forward into the bellhousing. If you have a 2" gap, you don't even have the driveshaft engaging in the clutch disk splines yet. The clutch centering tool is to line the disk up with the pilot bearing - that's only the last 3/8" of travel.

V2Rocket

When the engine is on its mounts and you are lining the tube up to the BH, using the factory tire-changing scissor jack is useful to incrementally angle the back of the engine to line up the tube (and it doesn't take up a lot of space)

RTK

Thank you, Van and V2Rocket. My son and I have been reading up on how to drop the transaxle and move the driveshaft backwards. (The input shaft is literally what's keeping us from being able to align the engine and subframe together to be bolted back into the car. Will advise how it goes...

Van

I made a video about changing the clutch - that might have some good tips for you about dropping the tranny and pulling the torque tube back:

pfarah7

Not to butt in... but Van: I've watched your video a few times prior to tackling that job. Thank you!!!

RTK

Thank you, Van! Very helpful! My son and I are planning to tackle at least the disassembly and removal of the transaxle tomorrow.

Gage

You may get better instruction if you can post some pictures of the pieces and the process you're undergoing. You do not need to also remove the transaxle if the components at the engine and driveshaft /torque tube are correct and introduced correctly. Pictures are worth... you know, lots of words.
I noted you described what you are installing as a shortblock. It will be to your advantage to complete the engine assembly prior to installation.