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timing belt, how often?

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Old 03-09-2004, 05:20 AM
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fokker
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Default timing belt, how often?

How many years does Porsche recommend between change of belts if not driving 80000km?
Old 03-09-2004, 06:34 AM
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930 under Restoration
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I dont know if they have a seperate recommendation on years for a belt change. Belts are belts and rubber is rubber, wether it's a Porsche or a Honda. The number of years it takes for a belt to dry rot or decay is the same for any car, no matter how "exclusive" the car may be. Personally, I feel 40K miles is about as much as a timing belt should go. Ofcourse I'm very cautious and like to change my oil every 2k miles instead of 3k miles. Replacing a $40 belt is a lot cheaper than replacing bent valves after a belt breaks!

If the car is driven very infrequently, inspect the belt for tiny "dry" cracks every years or so. Best advice I can give.
Old 03-09-2004, 08:50 AM
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AFAIK Porsche has never published a time limit but I limit mine to 3-4 years. My last belt change was at 3.25 yrs/8000 miles!

930, 40K miles is pushing it a bit, not many on this list will go over 30K even though Porsche reccomends 45K. The inner surface is the side you should be checking (but you need to remove the belt to see enough of it) but a belt can be near failure and still have no visible problem.

Last edited by Dave; 03-09-2004 at 11:59 AM.
Old 03-09-2004, 09:44 AM
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Luis de Prat
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Every 30K miles on the early non-tensioner cars.

Every 40K miles on the late cars with tensioner.
Old 03-09-2004, 09:50 AM
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Dave
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I can't see why the spec would have changed, the tensioner does nothing to prolong the life of the belt.
Old 03-09-2004, 11:45 AM
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Default Re: timing belt, how often?

Originally posted by fokker
How many years does Porsche recommend between change of belts if not driving 80000km?
You'll get varying opinions but most of them are good. If you can do your own mechanical work then it's better sooner than later.
Old 03-09-2004, 11:55 AM
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SoCal Driver
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After I've pulled the head a couple of times to replace bent valves I find once a year to be most appropriate.
Old 03-09-2004, 03:44 PM
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fokker
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Is it hard to do it by your self? How long time is it or do you have to do it at a shop?
i can change brakes, do oil service... But no bigger jobs before.
Can i make it?
Old 03-09-2004, 04:35 PM
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Techno Duck
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Are you a pothead fokker?

The job is not overly difficult. Its pretty straight foward actually, it took me about 3 hours to do with the help of my fathers wrench (supervising me). I however had the benefit of airtools and a lift at a shop. With the help of Clark's Garage shop manual and Rennlist i think its do able to anyone reasonably mechanically inclined. Do you know the status of the waterpump and the last time the rollers were all changed? If you are going through the trouble of doing the belt, it may be worth while to do that stuff also, including the balance belt, alt. belt and PS belt. The only thing some may tell you is it may be tough to tension the belts to proper tension. The first time we tensioned by feel. It was way to tight. We then retensioned by hand, and double, triple and quadruple checked with the Kricket KR-1 tension tool too make sure we had consistant results. Others however swear by the Porsche tensioner. Its important to have another car you can use for the time being, i had to do numerous runs back and fourth between the Porsche dealer to get stuff i was missing. Not to mention if you cant get the work done in time for your daily commute...you know the deal.

I wouldnt consider myself a super wrench. I am mechanically inclined...same as you doing brake jobs and changing the oil and whatnot. Where are you located, perhaps their is someone in the area that may be able to help you out. Overall, if you were to do the work yourself, it would be a good learning experience and save you alot of money in labor. Figure if you are changing the belts, pump, rollers; depending on where you go for the parts that should cost upto about $400-500. Ive read of most people paying close to $1000 for the complete job at a shop.
Old 03-09-2004, 04:37 PM
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30k or 3-4 years this is after I had a tensior fail. Also waterpump everyother belt change same for the rollers better to be on the safe side. I rather not put my head anymore. It's up to the person if you feel ok with changing them yourself then do it if not take it to the shop. It will run anywhere from 400-1000$ depending what you are doing in there while they have the belts off. I have done belts now so it is no big deal. All you have to do is take your time. Set at TDC both cam and flywheel marks. Then you just do the belts. Take in mind that you will bend valves if not done right and I'm not saying this to scare you just to let you know what the risk is. Where you live? Maybe a fellow rennlister can help you out on your first change you will learn a bunch and will know how to do your next belt change.
Old 03-09-2004, 04:50 PM
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SamGrant951
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The word around here is 3yr/30k, although I think I went 6 years before my last one in 2003. I traveled about 30k miles in that time. Im sticking to 3 years from now on, I drive it way less than I used to..
Old 03-09-2004, 05:24 PM
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What we have found here in Arizona is that 30k is the limit. We've seen many a belt break and many a belt slip. It certainly is a job that can be done by a home mechanic but keep in mind a few things. Belt must be tensioned correctly it is imperative. Next, the belt needs to be re-tensioned after 1,000 miles because the belt will stretch, belts that are not retensioned we have seen break because they get loose and start flapping. Another tension should occur at 15K. Now, idlers and tensioners. If new they should last 60k, the life of two belts. A water pump if new (not rebuilt) should last 60k. If the idlers and tensioners are even marginal, change them. Why would you want to go in there again before you need to? Finally, front engine seals, if you have a leak and your belt is getting oiled it will depreciate the life of the belt and could cause it to break. We use only OEM parts and only Continental belts, we've seen premature issues using other lower standard parts. So make sure your part vendor is reputable. I had one customer come in and hand me a quote from a parts vendor and asked if I could match prices ( I always try to do this). The customer specfically ordered Mintex Brake pads but the part number on his quote was for PBR Metal Master brake pads. I suppose this type of thing happens and he didn't know the difference so just use caution. If you are unsure of something, ask someone. Idlers and tensioners should not be noisy but quiet. And when you spin them they should spin smooth.

Good Luck.
Old 03-09-2004, 05:25 PM
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EZRider
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Originally posted by SamGrant951
The word around here is 3yr/30k, although I think I went 6 years before my last one in 2003. I traveled about 30k miles in that time. Im sticking to 3 years from now on, I drive it way less than I used to..
Sam, that's the nicest avatar I've seen on Rennlist. How about a blow up so we can use it for wall paper? please?? Did you make it?
Old 03-09-2004, 05:42 PM
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It actually was wallpaper off a calender I think, I shrunk it to avatar size. When I get home Ill find the full size version and upload it unless someone does it before me...
Old 03-09-2004, 05:48 PM
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Originally posted by SamGrant951
It actually was wallpaper off a calender I think, I shrunk it to avatar size. When I get home Ill find the full size version and upload it unless someone does it before me...
Sounds great! Thanks in advance


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