DSMblue

slot in splined shaft visible just underneath u joint, split in u joint also visible with 90 degree off orientation.
I am on my third rebuilt rack from Zim's. Getting really frustrated, because it appears that they just aren't putting the splined shaft into the rack in the correct orientation for the steering u joint. I have included a picture that shows orientation of the splined shaft when rack is centered, with the ujoint also in the picture when the wheel is centered. Does anyone have any great ideas for how to resolve this?

V2Rocket

Does your car have airbags?

MAGK944

I’m not seeing the issue, maybe I’m missing something but I’ve done this a ton of times.

With the rack centered you simply turn the steering shaft until the u-joint split aligns with the cut-out in the splined shaft. Once that’s done install the u-joint bolt and tighten, then center and secure the steering wheel onto the steering shaft. Finally remove the steering rack centering bolt.

DSMblue

Yes, car has airbags. So, unless there is some way to reorient clockspring module on shaft, I am stuck. MAGK, if I orient cutout in shaft with the flat on the splined shaft, steering wheel is off by 90 degrees.

MAGK944

I see, so I assume you cannot simply take the steering wheel off and reposition it 90 degrees so that it’s level like you can on a car without airbags?

DSMblue

Correct. Much easier on the non-airbag 944 that I also have. I'm kind of at a loss for what to do. If there is a way to redo the clock spring module on the steering column, that would be one potential solution, but I feel very confident that it is in the correct position as delivered from the factory in 1992. Which leads me to think that the splined shaft needs to be set 90 degrees different inside the rack. And that is something that I don't know how to do, or want to do since Zim's rebuilt the rack. I will be calling them in the morning (again) to see what can be done. This has been very frustrating, to say the least. This job was much easier on the 944 several years ago, before airbags.

MAGK944

I can understand your frustration but are you certain something else isn’t causing this. I find it hard to believe that a volume rebuilder is getting something basic like the alignment of the spline cut-out so wrong on so many racks. Did all the racks have the cut-out in the same location? Is the intermediate shaft top cv joint correctly attached to the spline?

Thats all I’ve got, Im sorry I cannot be anymore helpful as I haven’t any experience with airbaged 944’s. Bump for someone else to chirp in, gl

V2Rocket

Reason i asked is that, iirc, (and were getting into fuzzy memories here) the airbag intermediate shafts were clocked about 90 degrees off vs non-bag.

Have you mentioned the airbag to zims when ordering? Unsure if the rack was different, but could be.

ElRicardo

I have done this on my airbag equipped 944. Perhaps I am missing a subtlety in this post, but this process is prertty straightforward. The big worry you have- the clock spring , has enough “winds” to give you lots of “play” to accommodate a 90 degree mid-match.

Don’t worry about steering wheel position, get the shaft onto the spline and secure it . This will leave your steering wheel in a random position. What is important is important is that the wheel be straight ahead neautral when you start this next portion. Disconnect battery Remove the airbag- 4 screws on backside, metric hex iIRC, unplug airbag. remove steering wheel - use a 23 mm socket and hold steering wheel tight to counter. Do not let it rest on the steering wheel lock as a counter.

Slide off wheel. Note that the clock spring has a tab pointing at you that mates into the steering wheel. Simply move this tab to the new position to accommodate your wheel position straight ahead and put wheel back on. Reverse the disassembly process, ensuring the wave spring gets back onto the shaft before securing nut. Hope this helps.

MAGK944

According to PET the intermediate shafts are all the same on the later cars, only difference is for lhd/rhd versions.

However the main shafts and columns are different on cars with with or without airbags (option M657). As for what’s different, idk, maybe ask a breaker who is familiar with late cars like Lart.

Jfrahm

I've had to replace my clockspring and I agree there are many turns available there, it's no big deal to move it a ways to align the steering wheel.

DSMblue

Update on this. Indexed the clock spring, and this did not solve the issue. Looking at top of rack, arrow is not lined up with flat on pinion shaft. So, the only conclusion that I can reach is that whatever procedure Zims is using is not correct for airbag equipped cars. Back to talk with them again tomorrow. Since the pinion shaft can be inserted into the rack in several different positions, I am guessing that they just aren't putting them in correctly.

MAGK944

I’ve never figured out what that arrow on the pinion cover is there for as you can fit it in three positions and it’s likely in one of those positions it will line up with the flat but it doesn’t change anything.

Here are two I have in my shop now, with the rack centered the flat (the steel ruler is laying on the flat) doesn't point to the arrow on both racks but if I unbolt and rotate the cover anti-clockwise they will line up just fine but that doesn’t make any difference to the orientation of the shaft.

ElRicardo

Good point on the last post! Does anyone have a virgin rack that he can look at it and confirm where the arrow is? Does it even matter?!? It seem "superfluous"- the mechanics, IMHO, are pretty straightforward- if the rack is centered (seeing the dimple"), spinning the pinion either ways gives you an equal amount of travel left and right, regardless of where the arrow is. In fact, the top cover, by its nature, could be on in any of 3 positions. So, here is my advice- center the rack, slide the shaft onto the flat, bolt it, and then adjust the steering wheel and clockspring. I have rebuild several of these are never paid any attention to the arrow. I am sure the German have a precise reason for it, but I have not observed any practical implications to ignoring it.

Also, while I am rambling, i have a piece of advice for anyone who rebuilds racks- there is a seal at the base of the pinion shaft that is a real bear to get out- after years it can seize tight and just about reduce you to tears getting it out. Here is my "trick". Get a paint can opener from the hardware store- the kind with a slight hook at one end and a triangular bottle cap opener at the other end. Apply the cap opener to a beer and open it. Put the beer aside. Dull down any sharp edges on the hook with a quick pass over sandpaper. Then use the hook down into the housing and hook out the seal. You will need to stick your finger down into the housing to provide back pressure to keep the hook under the seal, but with a small amount of effort you can pull out the seal!

thomasmryan

Is it possible that the pinion is rotated in the rebuilt racks to get the center position off the previous wear point? From my understanding, the depth of the pinion is what determines the play. (Kinda used to old VW boxes with drag and play adjustments)

rebuilders may deviate a spline or two get out of this 'worn' area.