duffman349

83' 944 here, anyway so my power windows both stopped working, I've already gone ahead and pulled the relay and jumpered terms 87 and 30 and still no dice, what voltages should I be looking for at the relay plug? If jumpering the terminals doesn't work that would point to the relay not receiving power right? Any thoughts

duffman349

I've been tearing into this all afternoon and am officially begging for some insight. I've started cleaning grounds and have so far been able to get to the ground directly on the battery, the ground on the bellhousing to the firewall, and the grounds in the hatch. From what I've read the ground to the power windows is part of the grounds in the rear hatch. But still while jumpering spades 30 and 87 off the power window relay the windows do not work whatsoever. No 12v to the fuse either. I am totally stumped. I have noticed that when I jumper terminals 86 and 30 off the power window relay plug my oil light turns on, and the turn signals become active; IE I can pull the signal lever up or down and the light on the dash blinks in rhythm as though the car is on. Also rubbing the jumper in and out of the pins causes the mpg and tach to bounce? It's all got me scratching my head as I would think that jumping the 30 and 87 wires would bypass the relay

snb13

The window switch can be taken apart and cleaned. They often cause issues if neglected or if they get gummed up.

duffman349

All window switches have been replaced with new, yesterday actually

bonus12

Just taking it back a step, have you been able to hotwire the window motors to see if you get them to spin? Similar question is when were you last able to operate them?

duffman349

Yup did exactly that, the last time I was able to operate them was yesterday on my way to work, on my way home they were kaput

MAGK944

First, jumping 30 and 87 on the relay will not directly operate the windows, it just provides power to the window switches. However, if you don’t have 12v at fuse 8 (16A) then the point is moot as that 12v from the battery to the fuse is essential for anything in that circuit to work. Try feeding the fuse with 12v directly from the battery and see what happens.

Also, you must have both doors shut and the ignition on for the windows to operate so make sure they are each time you go to test the window switches. Btw, there is another ground in the lh footwell that is a common culprit for slow window operation, I don’t think that’s your issue but you mentioned grounds you checked and omitted that one.

duffman349

So order of operations would be battery>fuse>relay>switches>window motors?

MAGK944

Sort of, except the relay’s only job is to STOP the power windows working without BOTH the ignition on AND the doors shut. Regardless, if you don’t have 12v at the fuse you’ve failed at step 1 battery.

duffman349

So order of operations would be battery>fuse>relay>switches>window motors?


Accidental double post

duffman349

Ah, I didn't realize the door switches are a part of this circuit. My drivers door side switch has been wire nutted together for as long as I can remember, I'll recheck 12v at fuse and work that out as the voltmeter I was using was a piece of work, I'll use a good one today, then check to see if my wirenuts have maybe lost connection

duffman349

Just wanted to update this thread and say that I have fixed the problem. As per usual I don't know exactly what fixed it, as I kind of just addressed everything it could have possibly been before trying again. Thanks for your help everyone

Chalt

Did you have to replace anything other than the window switches?

duffman349

No, in fact I only replaced both the passenger window switches and cleaned the contacts on the drivers window switch, and then cleaned every connection up to the motors themselves. Not sure what did it but it but all connections were pretty dirty