Advice: Wheel Bearing Replacement/Nicked Hub
04-07-2019, 10:07 PM
#16
Race Car
His procedure was sound, race just started crooked which is strange since the shoulder that faces down is usually radiused.
I press mine but driving with a tool or ground down race as per @thomasmryan would be fine.
See PM @pointFive , if the 944T hub is same, I have an early good one you can have free.
Still, hub is usable.
I would at least rub an emery cloth light on the indentation.
When you look at damage like this in aluminum with a magnifying glass, there is raised material next to the indention just like if you ran a plow through dirt. It's this material that will make the bore dimension smaller than it was originally.
T
I press mine but driving with a tool or ground down race as per @thomasmryan would be fine.
See PM @pointFive , if the 944T hub is same, I have an early good one you can have free.
Still, hub is usable.
I would at least rub an emery cloth light on the indentation.
When you look at damage like this in aluminum with a magnifying glass, there is raised material next to the indention just like if you ran a plow through dirt. It's this material that will make the bore dimension smaller than it was originally.
T
04-09-2019, 12:49 PM
#17
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Well I was able to get to work today, but my mind is still racing wondering if I cleaned the wheel hub good enough (had a machine shop install the races. the machinist used an oil/lubricant to install them, additional material was removed (nicks/scores) by the machinist as well, hoping I didn't leave any
FOD behind), if I used enough grease, that the bearings are seated correctly, and all fasteners were torqued...
When testing for slop (wiggling at 12-6 and 3-9 on the tire), there is still movement. Not nearly as much, but it's still there. I jacked the car back up to re-check the clamping nut. I re-tightened the clamping nut then backed off until the aft washer could barely move. The hex bolt was then torqued to 10 ft-lb (lowest setting on my wrench) while the lug nuts were torqued to 96 ft-lb.
Being the first time replacing wheel bearings, it surely is nerve-racking...
Thanks @951and944S, @odonnell , and everyone else who helped out!
FOD behind), if I used enough grease, that the bearings are seated correctly, and all fasteners were torqued...
When testing for slop (wiggling at 12-6 and 3-9 on the tire), there is still movement. Not nearly as much, but it's still there. I jacked the car back up to re-check the clamping nut. I re-tightened the clamping nut then backed off until the aft washer could barely move. The hex bolt was then torqued to 10 ft-lb (lowest setting on my wrench) while the lug nuts were torqued to 96 ft-lb.
Being the first time replacing wheel bearings, it surely is nerve-racking...
Thanks @951and944S, @odonnell , and everyone else who helped out!
04-09-2019, 06:30 PM
#18
Drifting
When testing for slop (wiggling at 12-6 and 3-9 on the tire), there is still movement. Not nearly as much, but it's still there. I jacked the car back up to re-check the clamping nut. I re-tightened the clamping nut then backed off until the aft washer could barely move. The hex bolt was then torqued to 10 ft-lb (lowest setting on my wrench) while the lug nuts were torqued to 96 ft-lb.
If the bearings are seated properly by rotating the disc and turning the clamping in until the washer can just be moved with a screwdriver, and there is still movement, then check suspension pickup points, the steering to rods, steering box, steering box attachments, and macpherson strut attachments. There should be no noticeable movement.
If the bearings are seated properly by rotating the disc and turning the clamping in until the washer can just be moved with a screwdriver, and there is still movement, then check suspension pickup points, the steering to rods, steering box, steering box attachments, and macpherson strut attachments. There should be no noticeable movement.