The catalog I have lists the LSD part # as 951 332 053 05 but i'm not certain that's the number installed. I bought a rebuilt ZF LSD through Dimi at Flying Horse Motorsports, he's on this site but I can't remember his handle off the top of my head, I'm sure a google search on the business name will work. There's a YouTube video on replacing the bearings in the carriers, I think it's the carriers that aren't available anymore and they're riveted together so you need to drill them out, replace the bearings then put the carriers back together. Getting them out and back in again is the hard part as far as I'm concerned and the bearings Constantine at Black Sea Research makes are much more robust in my opinion, I expect they'll outlast the entire car.

You may want to search this site for some of the threads Constantine has written about delrin carriers, in short, he's not a great fan of them and doesn't use the material himself for that reason, preferring the billet stainless steel solution. It may be overkill, I'm not a mechanical engineer, but they sure look and feel bulletproof if that means anything

I did exactly what you're suggesting with my TT, but for a different reason. The '89 S2 has what they call a "split" TT, it was supposed to somehow reduce harmonic vibration. Instead it allowed the bearings to walk down the tube and eventually fail prematurely. The fix was to fall back to a pre-1988 tube that didn't have a slot cut in it. I found one for $35 in Emeryville CA, a place called EASY European Salvage, so I got it back to my shop, pulled the old bearings and drive shaft, then mounted the new Black Sea bearings in it. I got to bead blast it and paint it to so now it's all shiny too.

I really like the LSD in the S2. Even with an open diff the s2 puts down a whole bunch of torque, the LSD completes it. Highly recommended. I did need to get used to it coming out of turns though, if you stab the throttle it has a tendency to step out on you in the back, which is kind of scary when you're surrounded by huge redwood trees.

Good luck with the project and keep us posted!

 

Next problem;

Got the clutch and pressure plate assembled, and put back on the flywheel. Notched out the bell housing. Checked the sensor gap (seems pretty darn close, like 0.8mm worth)
Put the bell housing back on, making sure the fork was in the right spot. It's under the bearing and looks like it has the same travel - it just won't disengage the pressure plate. It just flaps around.
(I was half expecting to have the clutch wheel fall out of alignment, to be honest - but it didn't..)

I bolted the slave cylinder back down and the clutch pedal just stuck to the floor.
Took the bell housing back off and ensure the torque tube will mates up - and it's in fine with the pilot bearing and mates with the clutch wheel... so I know it's engaged and should at least propel the car..

.. but is this normal fork behavior? Will bleeding the slave cylinder get it to push the fork harder than I can with a breaker bar to disengage the pressure plate? (i.e. Should I continue reassembly with the floppy fork?)

 

I'm not sure I understand the floppy fork problem, something sounds wrong with that. The fork is under the throwout bearing? I had to compress my clutch slave cylinder to get it in, there was plenty of resistance, no free play.

I did have my clutch hit the floor and stay there and yes, bleeding the slave cylinder fixed it. Be careful to keep the brake reservoir topped up, its easy to let it get too low and suck air into the slave. Some folks argue for pushing fluid from below instead of pulling it from the tank to avoid that problem.

 

Success -- mostly. I ignored the floppy fork and kept reassembling. The clutch won't 'function' until after the torque tube and slave cylinder are back in place and bled out.
Before screwing the torque tube to the transaxle, I put slid the connector in place and tried to turn the torque tube.. wouldn't turn by hand really.
Took a 2x4 and pushed the clutch to the floor.. tried again.. turns without a problem as the clutch apparently works.


Thanks for all the help!

On a side note, someone is dropping a used torque tube off here tomorrow for $125. Couldn't be luckier on that find with free delivery. I'll be able to enjoy the new clutch until I can replace some bearings.

 

BTW, that video on rebuilding the stock TT bearings is here: