PPS: Have you tried getting a pair of locking needle nose pliers on the head of #15? There isn't a lot of room to move there, but if you bust it loose with vice-grips you may be able to get it out?

 

Well, yeah

The 944 clutch is legendary. If you've successfully replaced the clutch on a 944, your next (and only) challenge will be replacing the spark plugs on a Ferrari. After that, you can die in peace.

I spent nearly two years on mine. The upside? When it's finished, take it out on a fine spring day, a mountain road you have all to yourself. I favor CA State Hwy. 9 between Skyline and Boulder Creek myself. There's just nothing better in the world, except maybe my wife, and that's on one of those special days...

 

And, if you want a true date with death, try replacing the front Macpherson struts on a Renault 17? That'll almost certainly blow your mind. Literally. Those little gems will take the head right off your shoulders if you aren't damned careful.

 

Is there enough material sticking out to weld a nut onto it?

 

I can barely get the dremel in there to cut it, don't have the welder, and the last welding attempt under the vehicle with a friend's equipment was fairly bad. Ended up cutting it anyway.
Not sure I trust myself to have an open flame next to that slave cylinder line... or even the dremel tool..

 

scope creep and all, but you can get the engine + trans out of the car (NA) in 1 day which makes clutch work a piece of cake

 

You clearly meant "I" not "you" Not that I won't be able to get it out much faster after I swap most of the bolts with stripped, non-rusty, under-torqued replacements and know where they are..
Replacing as much as a I can this time around, from rear main seal, pilot bearing, needle bearings, clutch kit, etc etc etc.

Now know I need to repack the torque tube. (Sounds worse than the clutch.)
Nothing on this car has ever been changed and the rubber from the clutch is falling out the bell housing as a wrestle with it.

Luckily for me, it usually goes back together a lot quicker than it comes apart, as long as I can find all the pieces...

 

Cut 95% of the stuck bolt's head off when the whole sensor housing broke on me.
So the bell housing is off, at least. Now to figure out how to get the other half of the sensor bracket off the engine block with this newfound extra space.

The old clutch was original - half the rubber was torn out on one side.
Should I now also now repack the torque tube, since it's making some noise when I spin it by hand? or will those bearings hold out a while, despite being noisy?

Thanks guys.

 

On the todo list for this job; Clutch kit, pilot bearing, rear main seal, needle bearings in the fork, torque tube guide, oil pressure sender (current one leaks and reads high), ... Did I miss anything?
Thought about changing the 2,3,4 gear synchros but will try the old gears with the new clutch - car only has 53k on it and probably had the original transmission fluid in there.

 

Not sure if I can handle the Ferrari, then. I needed therapy for about 6 months after changing the clutch in my 944.

 

My duel to the death was on a 1967 Landcruiser, after the steering shaft snapped inside the box (where the shaft met the worm gear). I had to get the pitman arm off the output shaft on the side of the steering box. I found a puller that barely fit (after grinding more than a bit of metal off behind the "fingers"--I was much younger then). I spent a week with heat, penetrating oil, occasional hammering, and tightening up on the puller while ducking behind a pile of old blankets. When it finally gave, the puller shot across the driveway.

 

I'd hate to be a Debbie Downer on this, but if the TT's making noise when you spin it by hand I'd definitely replace the bearings. It's not all that easy to get the TT out of the car so it's best to do it now. I can recommend the Black Sea Super Bearings, they aren't cheap but they're darned solid, much more substantial than stock, which IIRC are NLA anyway.

 

I installed a ZF LSD, transaxle oil cooler, and the "short" 5th gear on mine while I was doing it. I also replaced all the CV joints & boots, installed a solid transmission mount and an Only944 short shift kit. What sort of clutch did you decide on? I ended up with the SPEC Stage 3+, but I'm deliberately building a track toy.

 

I went for the standard sachs kit since I found one for $400 and am replacing everything else in the vicinity..

Long story on this car. It barely ran when I bought it in May. A kid that wasn't old enough to sign the title bought it from an old guy after it sat for 9+ years. Needless to say, he wasn't happy with his purchase because he didnt' want to put in the effort.

Since, changed all the belts, all the fluids, the plugs, filters, etc. Cat back exhaust exchange with the dansk. Fixed the tail gate pins and the lift struts on both the hood and hatch.
Then it ran.. mostly. New tires, did the AFM to MAF conversion and the rogue chip tune, started re-upholstering the seats with raw leather by hand. Got new custom molded carpets through ACC from a distributor.
Lindsay racing short shift lever.... What else....


Seat Re in progress.. So far.. okay for a first attempt... Looks much better since

 

Otto, Whats the part number on the ZF LSD? I have three synchro rings I plan to put in (but had a two piece rubber clutch, so may not be needed..) and could likely do that at the same time..
The plan for the TT bearings were *** 6006 2Z or something - stock replacements -- but I'm likely going to have a rough time with that. Been considering buying an old TT tube, fixing and swapping first.. That way, I can enjoy what's left of the warm weather.

If there's demand on the list, it's likely possible to find some sources in China to cast some new rubber moldings and delrin inserts, instead of buying the $700 monster bearings..