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944 Cabriolt refresh and turbo swap

 
Old 06-20-2019, 11:57 AM
  #46  
Breakaway944
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You are right about the ABS - it is purely stand alone system, it has it's own separate harness that does not communicate with DME or other computers except for dash light.
This is the first time I can see zip ties like this - very interesting! How are they called?
Thanks for the info, it will save me research time

The zip ties I got were from Omc/Json/Erude but all outboard manufactures have them. They are "fuel line zip ties".




This is a better explanation of what I was going for. I figured if it works on fuel lines it should be even better for vacuum lines.
Since silicone is soft and slippery I wanted a way to secure them so they do not fall off when poking around the engine. I also wanted to make sure I eliminated as many air leaks as possible.
I just did a search and stole those images above from fuelhoseziptie.com I should have gone here first, much cheaper then anything that says "marine" on it
Always surprises me how technologies take forever to migrate from one area to another. I have been using these for decades on my outboards, and it was common sense to transfer the concept to vacuum lines. Here you have a website that only sells this product, yet they have not figured out that people who care about leaking vacuum lines would use it too. If they advertises it for vacuum lines they would sell a lot more. Think outside the box!
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Jay Wellwood (06-20-2019)
Old 06-20-2019, 01:16 PM
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Thanks for sharing - great info!
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Old 06-22-2019, 07:02 PM
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Swanson11
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Nice job on straightening your rear shelf liner! I tried something similar on my liner and several other interior parts by heating them with a heat gun and various bracing, but I could never get the warps out.
My rear shelf liner still has warps in it after heating and bracing. How straight were you able to get yours, and did it keep its straight shape?

Could you go into more detail about how you got it to straighten and stay that way?

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Old 06-23-2019, 10:25 PM
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Swanson11 - I was able to get most of it out. The back section is under the top and not really seen

You can see in the above picture there is still a 1/8" gap in the middle. Like I said no one will ever see it and I am ok with it. Close enough for government work! The section with the huge hump on the right is pretty much dead on. I have been putting my straightening efforts more into the a pillar and the part that goes between them on the top. Do not have good before pictures but if you look at the picture below, at the top corner of the windshield, you can see the a pillar trim twisted and sticking out past the rubber seal.

here you can see it fitting perfectly, the weatherstripping is still adjusting to the "proper" shape, but the panel is straight.

both sides were like this. Below is a picture of the other side below the weatherstripping, you can see it fits perfectly flush with the top and side. Used to be twisted and pulled away 1.5" or so.

Still working on the center piece. From the front shot below you can see the sides of the a pillar is straight, they were both warped. Also the middle piece is a straight line across the top of the windshield. When I get some time I will continue to shape the middle piece.

So far everything has kept the shape. They were warped by heat, heat will unwarp them.

I just used heat on the back side of the piece. Just move the heat gun back and forth over the area you want to adjust until it gets hot. The tricky part is getting it hot enough without melting it. Use as much heat as possible! Then apply pressure to shape it how you want and hold it there till it cools all the way down. Then do it over, over and over again till it reaches the shape you want. That top part between the a pillars is the hardest because of all the curves. Use clamps if you can, but a lot of the time because of the shapes you have to hold it by hand, pushing the piece against something, because of the awkward shapes.
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Old 06-24-2019, 05:59 AM
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Thanks Breakaway. What you describe is basically how I've been doing it as well. Some parts straightened out nicely, others (like my liner) not so much. What we need is the ability to 3D print these old plastic interior parts
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