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Thanks for the info. My inserts are not Koni's and not meant to mount like that link.
Just went ahead and installed a set of 951 front and rear shocks I had planned to use on my conversion car. I will find something in the future when that car is ready to get rolling.
Your 87 will have a sealed strut and the Koni 8641-1414 Sport is made specifically for that sealed housing. Like others have mentioned, it's a very easy conversion.
Your 87 will have a sealed strut and the Koni 8641-1414 Sport is made specifically for that sealed housing. Like others have mentioned, it's a very easy conversion.
Jason may have done it more than once since he's suggesting the conversion is "easy" .
It is very strait forward and his web site has detailed instructions. I strongly suggest buying the threaded spring perches from him along with the inserts and rear shocks, saves you having to do it all again later. Ask me how I know this...
It's not a difficult operation but it does take some time. I ended up using a large tubing cutter (plumbing supply/hardware store, about $30) to precisely cut down the front strut holders. If you use that method make sure you debur the cut tube before you handle it for painting, I put a real clean (and pretty deep) cut in my right thumb that took a couple weeks to heal.
PS: As I recall, Jason's outfit will do the conversion for you for a very reasonable fee. If you can send him the struts, his shop will do it for you and send them back. I think they even paint them and put on the Koni stickers, but I'm not entirely sure about that.
Last edited by Otto Mechanic; 12-30-2018 at 11:38 PM.
I have already installed a full set of struts and shocks off a 944 Turbo car, so crisis is over. I meant for them to go on my project, but I think that project will go coil over.
I have already installed a full set of struts and shocks off a 944 Turbo car, so crisis is over. I meant for them to go on my project, but I think that project will go coil over.
That's why I suggested the adjustable spring perches; you'll need those for a complete coil over installation. In addition, you'll need the adapter for the rear Koni dampers that Jason sells, along with the threaded spring perches he also sells. Near as I can tell, that's the only way to go "full coil over" on a 944. You can then choose to either keep the rear torsion bar and just use "helper springs" on the rear, or remove the torsion bars and use stronger rear springs.
That's why I suggested the adjustable spring perches; you'll need those for a complete coil over installation. In addition, you'll need the adapter for the rear Koni dampers that Jason sells, along with the threaded spring perches he also sells. Near as I can tell, that's the only way to go "full coil over" on a 944. You can then choose to either keep the rear torsion bar and just use "helper springs" on the rear, or remove the torsion bars and use stronger rear springs.
Jason's a good guy. He can set you up with everything you'll need.
Regards,
Ahhhh. Thanks Otto.
I will be starting a separate thread for my beast once I start really digging in, and will post suspension questions there as I have 2 ideas I am mulling over for it. Right now it is just stuffed in the garage out of the weather because everything leaks on it. To be expected for a $550 derelict...
Hey Larry,
This is what I have on my '88 DD / Track Day car. It has 350 lb springs on the front and 200 lb helper springs on the rear (kept the torsion bars). Let me know if you have any questions or anything.
Car has been on/off the road for a few months, fixing little things as they appear. Last item was sealing up the battery tray area that was leaking into the cabin. I used some spray on 3m Rubberrized undercoating along with some spray in truck bedliner to get some durability.
Bit if a big milestone yesterday/today. He turned 16 on Dec 10th and was supposed to get his license then, but after a snafu with his permit he had to wait another month. Yesterday he finally got his license. He and mom made trip out to grama's house and got this picture. Old girl cleans up pretty good for 191K miles.
This morning was his 1st time driving solo as he headed off to school.
Not sure Stooge. I know he is all excited and loves it, and one of his friends is a "car kid" and loves it. We shall see what he says tonight, It's a Porsche so I am betting it will get much attention at school, most people are clueless how affordable the 944's are, they see the Gold badge and think $$$$$
I was employed at a high school that was predominantly Hispanic and the students loved my car. A nice looking classic Porsche is appreciated by all races and across all income, education levels. Including all genders( yeah,all five or six).
So I have another question now.. Is there a way to tell if the engine is original to the car? Do the SN on the motor and VIN match exactly, or is it a date code match that makes them "numbers matching"? Is there a place to check the numbers?
This car is high miles (192K mi), and has given a few signs that it is very tired and could use a rebuild. We have done the basics of timing balance belts, etc on the front of the motor so it is good for now, but no idea if it has even been cracked. We do not honestly know if it is original to the car either. However my son is talking about a rebuild on his engine as it has shown a few signs of being very tired. We also have another '87 that I was planning to pull the engine out of and sell to help pay for its remodel. While I do not think this car will ever be a concourse car, if the current block in his car is original I think it would be nice to keep it in the car. OR, I could have him rebuild the one out my car which is less work and pretty much no downtime for him as we could rebuild it while he keeps driving the current one, but is not original to the car.
Thoughts on how to ID if it is original and the idea of motor in it vs one from my car?
So I have another question now.. Is there a way to tell if the engine is original to the car? Do the SN on the motor and VIN match exactly, or is it a date code match that makes them "numbers matching"? Is there a place to check the numbers?
This car is high miles (192K mi), and has given a few signs that it is very tired and could use a rebuild. We have done the basics of timing balance belts, etc on the front of the motor so it is good for now, but no idea if it has even been cracked. We do not honestly know if it is original to the car either. However my son is talking about a rebuild on his engine as it has shown a few signs of being very tired. We also have another '87 that I was planning to pull the engine out of and sell to help pay for its remodel. While I do not think this car will ever be a concourse car, if the current block in his car is original I think it would be nice to keep it in the car. OR, I could have him rebuild the one out my car which is less work and pretty much no downtime for him as we could rebuild it while he keeps driving the current one, but is not original to the car.
Thoughts on how to ID if it is original and the idea of motor in it vs one from my car?
https://rennlist.com/forums/vindecoder.php
This should give a basic idea of what came with that VIN.
12-30-2018, 03:27 PM
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