sigh...
#16
Nordschleife Master
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Im new to this, why couldnt i get started off with a burnt tail light or something! I don't know if the damn bearings are ok, but i do know I'm facing a rebuild if i throw one.I have limited time to work on this. I'm goingh after the oil cooler today, and then im going to buy A LOT of cheap oil, and just pour it through and let it leak through the system through the bottom. then once i see all oil coming out, I'm going to fill it up, start it up, and see if the temperature climbs to high, and then shut it off and see what the oil looks like. am i aprroaching this right?
~Eyal
~Eyal
#17
I wouldnt just pour it through. The oil will be in the top end too. You need to start the car, let it run for a few minutes, drain, repeat. Might buy some cheap filters and change them a few times too. I have to be honest, and you wont like it, this may be better if you decide right now it is going to wait until May. Work slow, it is not that bad. Do it once and do it right. You really need to drop the exhaust, drop the pan and do the bearings. Wouldnt it suck it if blew up on the way back to ND? Take the family sedan back to school, watch here, learn some more, get a game plan and re-attack in May.
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#19
Nordschleife Master
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matt, dont worry, she doesnt go to ND, I fly back. She will sit in the garage and not move till. I get back in may. who in their right mind would take a 951 like mine to ND? especially with no snow driving experience! CA boy drives 944 turbo on ice as first winter driving experience... Doesn't sound bright to me, lol I can get the oil cooler done on time. If its not that, I will clean it out and let it sit and wait till I get back to do the HG. Does that sound allright to you?
~Eyal
~Eyal
#20
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...also, I know your right, since you know what your doing, but please explain to me why the bearings need replacement so I can learn and undersatnd?
~Eyal
~Eyal
#22
Three Wheelin'
and then im going to buy A LOT of cheap oil, and just pour it through and let it leak through the system through the bottom. then once i see all oil coming out, I'm going to fill it up, start it up, and see if the temperature climbs to high, and then shut it off and see what the oil looks like. am i aprroaching this right?
BUT consider the following:
After pouring oil through for a "gravity flush", put the drain plug back in, add oil to spec and instead of starting the engine, either remove the spark plugs and "pull" the engine though a few rotations with a wrench on the crank bolt, or remove the ignition and fuel pump relays and crank the engine with the starter. I think you need to slowly pump the new oil through the engine instead of starting the car. The new oil should be drained and the process done again a few times prior to firing up the engine. Sort of a "lather, rinse, repeat". You will need a few cheap oil filters as well.
Good luck,
Greg
#23
Eyal - I know it sucks. The oil cooler is not a hard repair but you are not 100% sure that is what it is. You can do what you like with it, it is your car (since you asked me if it was okay :>), I am sure you are frustrated). I would do exactly what you are proposing, do the cooler and see how it is, sitting isnt going to hurt it (not that I can think of). As far as the bearings I would be concerned about the fact that you have a fluid (not oil because it has coolant in it) that you know know the lubricating characteristics of. The rod bearings are at the (small) end of the rod and need the oil (thus they dip into the pan). I think it would be a really good idea to do them. you can see how many other people have suggested it. Better to do a unneeded $150 (with oil pan gasket) repair than the have to do a 2500+ dollar motor!
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#24
My gosh.. .... I have heard of the phrase "milkshake" being thrown around here but never knew exactly what it looked like.....til now.
Good luck to you EYAL.
PS You may want to have a pro do the bearings. Just browsing this board, way too many instances where inexperienced people like my self dig into it and have to dig into it again later because some little thing went wrong. At least if you have a pro do it, they have to redo it for you.
Good luck to you EYAL.
PS You may want to have a pro do the bearings. Just browsing this board, way too many instances where inexperienced people like my self dig into it and have to dig into it again later because some little thing went wrong. At least if you have a pro do it, they have to redo it for you.
#25
Three Wheelin'
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I go through this quite often. When it's that bad that stuff is impossible to get loose. Brakekleen will loosen it up some as well as ATF or rislone or similar product. Once you get it together you could run it with some of the aforementioned products and repeatedly change it out. Keep a stern eye on oil pressure as water displaces the oil and thus the beraings aren't well lubricated. Thats why everyone is asking about your bearings. How long was it like this? I lost an intake gasket on my mustang yaers ago and it made about 2 miles before I relized it. It poured water into the oil,I drained about a gallon out of the pan. The crank was swimming in it and the crank was trashed. That was an extreme case however not quite like yours, I hope. How overfull was it? this will give some indication as to how much of it was mixed up.
#26
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it was run probably like 4 times, i assume each time getting worse in amount of coolent. What do you guys thing about running detergents such as ATF through it a few times? I'll crank it with the DME relay taken out for a bit (how much is too much?) and change the oil, repeat a couple times before I actually start it up. and run and rinse and run and rinse. what do you think?
~Eyal
~Eyal
#27
Race Car
Doesn't the turbo use an oil to air type cooler? I thought the leak at the oil cooler was just an NA thing, isn't it NA+milkshake=oil cooler, turbo+milkshake=HG? When flushing that out, you'll want to crank it for at least a few minutes the first flush and longer on the next/rest. I would think that starting it and letting it run would be better than just cranking it, you really need to circulate some oil in order to do the job right.
#28
Wow, that is nasty. I'd have to agree with the other opinions so far that it must be the oil cooler (really only an oil filter housing on the turbo with outlets to the oil cooler. But it still has the same gaskets and o-rings sealing the water from the oil and they fail on the turbos too). I've never seen milkshake like that but I have heard of much less of a milkshake and those same owners needing to do the rod bearings also. I wouldn't not trust mine after such a mess. Chances are, they are severely worn from lack of lubrication already so you won't get too far even if you do manage to get all of that out. Park it and be prepared to learn way more than you ever wanted to about how a 944 turbo is put together (b/c you'll be taking half of it apart to get to those rod bearings )
#30
Rennlist Member
I once had a datsun pick-up truck that had oil that bad. It would only hold water for 10 mintes or so before all ending up in the oil pan. In that case, it was a very bad head gasket. Power was way down, and one of the four spark plugs look pressure washed, while the others all looked normal.
Sorry about the bad luck. Makes you want to toss some Imodium in there.
Sorry about the bad luck. Makes you want to toss some Imodium in there.