Eyal 951

Well, do you think its safe to run the engine and drive around the block once cleaned out and fixed before doing the bearings? someone give me rod bearings 101 please. thanks!
~Eyal

Graufuchs

Yuck you have my condolences..Ive never seen oil do that before...

Conor

Here ya go:
http://www.tech-session.com/kb/index...x_v2&id=70&c=4

joseph mitro

wow now that is white!! my oil was a truly chocolate brown color (like chocolate milk) but certainly not like that!

good luck.

Dmitry S.

Rod bearings shouldn't be THAT hard. I don't know much about the 951, but the 924 it involes

1. Removal of the crossmember - 30-45minutes
2. Removal of the oil pan - 30-45 minutes
3. Undoing the bearing caps and replacing the bearings - 30-45 minutes
4. Installation of new oil pan gasket and puting the pan back on - 1 hour, to allow the sealant to dry
5. Putting the crossmember on - 20 minutes

Then you take it to an alignment shop.... Is the 951 that much more different? I'd assume the crossover pipe might need to be unbolted, adding another 2 hours or so to the install. All of my estimates are fairly conservative too.

adrial

Anybody else wondering about the effect of that much mixing on the turbo bearings?

Eyal 951

you guys, the color of that oil is a little distorted, it isn't that white, its a bit browner. The camera was about a foot and a half a way, and that white light flash alters the color a bit.
~Eyal

jonnybgood

I had a Chevy S 10 Blazer with a V6 that cracked an intake manifold gasket. Small leak into the oil galley that I did not discover until it overheated. Pulled the dipstick and it was dark chocolate and about 3qts over filled. I fixed the gasket. Drove for about 15 minutes, drained the oil, drove one day, drained the oil and no problems. Engine ran for another 15k miles before I sold it.

Sounds like you want to try this before changing the rod bearings. Just be sure to watch the temp gauge. I was lucky on the Blazer but the V6 is obviously not a 951, good luck on yours.

A question I have is why just the rod bearings? Same loss of oil film on the mains. Why leave the main bearings after a milk shake?

Eyal 951

the issue is, if i dont do the rod bearings, if my decision to not do them is wrong, I know have a thrown bearing and an engine REBUILD on my hands. I dont like ruining my engine that much... I have to see what happens in may about the bearings, I'll get more advice.
~Eyal

yarin

"....My milkshake brings all the boys to the yard..."

Ouch.... good luck with that one.

jonnybgood

Usually a connecting rod will let you know long before you "throw" it. If throwing it means complete failure of the connecting rod, rapid uncontrolled disassembly into several parts then usually you will know long before this happens. Unless you are at high RPM you will see a drop in oil pressure and a loud knocking that will give plenty of warning of the impending disaster. The knocking is caused by the rod bearing clearances going to hell and the rod bearing banging against the crankshaft rod journal.

If this happens, just the knocking, then you must consider all the rod bearing material that is no longer where it is supposed to be and is now running around the rest of your engine.

Where you are right now is that you probably have most of the rod bearing material in the right place since you have not mentioned any knocking. When you hear connecting rod knocking you know it and you would have mentioned it. So the point you are at right now is safe and that is why the experienced guys here changed the rod bearings at this same point where you are at.

If you pursue the route I took with my Blazer and your rod bearings are already damaged but not yet knocking, then you risk dumping bearing metal into your engine as the clearances go south on you.

Good Luck!

SidViscous

POssible strategy.

Replace oil cooler seal. Flush with oil a few times (and some detergent like ATF)

Do a leakdown test. This should give you an idea if it's head gasket.

Then think long and hard about the bearings.

To answer your question simplyu about the bearings.

They've been robbed of thier proper lubrication, and had water/coolant and them. They get scored from heat. Once scored they are no longer bearings but abrasers. Nightmare follows.

Not saying that's the case here, but something to think about.

Eyal 951

If you guys are saying do the rod bearings, I will do the rod bearings. I trust all of you. I am not in a competent position to make an educated decision. I didnt expect to have this kind of problem within less then 2 weeks of me actually being around the car. I had it since august, but only for two days before I flew to school, then came back and problem. anyone feel like helping me do rob bearings in may??? I'll buy lunch.
~Eyal

ribs

My car was milkshaked (not quite that creamy though) over a year ago, and the car sat for 9 months before I pulled the head to replace the HG. I didn't even think about replacing the rod bearings, but after 1700 miles I have had no problems. I did replace my rod bearings about 2 years ago though (only because I had to replace a very leaky oil pan gasket, and it takes like half an hour more to do the rod bearings, so why not)...if you don't have to replace the rod bearings, than don't...it is a 20+ hour ordeal for someone who has never done it before (it took me like 2 months, but I was doing a lot of other stuff at the same time) and a huge PITA.

JohnnyBGood is right about the rod bearings...I have been riding in 2 hondas that have spun a rod bearing, and each time there was ample warning that something was awry (oil pressure light was on at idle for a couple of days in one of these cars, and both made lots of very loud ticking for several minutes that was unmistakenly a rod knock before the bearings went)...too bad my friends who were driving wouldn't heed my advice to pull over and get a tow...both trashed their motors.

I'm not positive, but I believe that a 951 has a different oil cooling system than n/a's and won't mix oil and coolant if the seals go...usually the only way you get the milkshake in a 951 is with a blown HG.

Some advice...I see you want to rush and get your car fixed by Sunday (you must be going back to school or something)...you should take your time since the car doesn't go with you anyways. Pull the head this week and get it machined, and don't worry about getting it back on. Your car is old and would benefit from a valve job (my car runs a lot quieter, better, with more power and better fuel economy after I had my head rebuilt) and if you rush the repair you may botch something. Thats just my opinion though. Best of luck.

-rich

*Michael.*

Do the rod bearings!!! Don't risk it. The job will be time consuming but it sounds like you really want to do this the correct way. These cars are old and not that common, no sense in risking a blown motor. You will learn a lot too and become a better home mechanic!

I would give you a hand if I wasn't on the other side of the world. (I would rather be in cali anyways)