Need Lead on 951 Short Block - or rebuild guidance
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Need Lead on 951 Short Block - or rebuild guidance
Well, I junked out number four cylinder - scored it so badly it essentially froze the engine. So it's time to either bore or find a new block.
This is a race application - EMS system, larger turbo, etc., and so it will get hard use. I'd appreciate anyone's thoughts on the best piston / bore scheme for the 86, or for any leads one might have on a new block.
thanks much,
This is a race application - EMS system, larger turbo, etc., and so it will get hard use. I'd appreciate anyone's thoughts on the best piston / bore scheme for the 86, or for any leads one might have on a new block.
thanks much,
#2
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Std overbore is only .5 mm, it sounds like it might be damaged beyond that. You have a number of options at different price points ranging from a used shortblock to a sleeved and stroked 3.2 liter. An idea of what you're looking to put into it might help.
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Check with Chris White if you decide to bore and sleeve. A fiend went that route last summer and the work was first rate.
Alan C.
Alan C.
#5
Re: Need Lead on 951 Short Block - or rebuild guidance
Originally posted by Bob Patterson
Well, I junked out number four cylinder - scored it so badly it essentially froze the engine. So it's time to either bore or find a new block.
This is a race application - EMS system, larger turbo, etc., and so it will get hard use. I'd appreciate anyone's thoughts on the best piston / bore scheme for the 86, or for any leads one might have on a new block.
Well, I junked out number four cylinder - scored it so badly it essentially froze the engine. So it's time to either bore or find a new block.
This is a race application - EMS system, larger turbo, etc., and so it will get hard use. I'd appreciate anyone's thoughts on the best piston / bore scheme for the 86, or for any leads one might have on a new block.
Best regards,
Jeff
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Well - I put this under "stupid human tricks". Installed an EMS, been building the car for a year (but no engine work to speak of), and stupidly left paper towels under the tape over the intakes in the head. So, cranked some paper through the cylinders, suspect I rocked a piston, and viola, we have some very scored pistons.
Makes me wish I'd bought your engine when it was available, Jeff. I've always had a sweet spot for that unit. How's your ride coming?
Makes me wish I'd bought your engine when it was available, Jeff. I've always had a sweet spot for that unit. How's your ride coming?
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I'm looking at a SFR 2.8 litre, but understand there may be oil sealing problems - in the form of ring blow-by. Uncertain...some concerns clearly. My thanks to a lister who brought that up. Good man - even called to talk with me about it.
EBS suggested a bore to 102, and use of J&E pistons (but I believe they need some coating to do that right...so I've got a couple rocks to turn over there). John Anderson has been super, and suggests a basic stock lower end, with full boat crank work...but letting it go at that. Says they're basically rock solid engines.
My range today, in terms of options as I sit here, run from fixing up an NA block at minimal expense, using my internals and running down a set of decent but used number 1 pistons, and just ringing the thing and hoping for the best - for maybe $2k, to the $5k SFR deal (which may not be a good deal at all), or something in between with EBS and / or John Anderson, both of which set me up with a solid short block for maybe $2.5k
Since it's track only...it's not a daily driver, and working on this is supposed to be stress relief, I really don't mind the garage time. Conversely, it's damn stressful to be fighting demons at the track after a day or two's prep, and a several hundred mile tow, so I'd like a reliable, a preferrably 2.6 litre or less engine...
Suggestions?
EBS suggested a bore to 102, and use of J&E pistons (but I believe they need some coating to do that right...so I've got a couple rocks to turn over there). John Anderson has been super, and suggests a basic stock lower end, with full boat crank work...but letting it go at that. Says they're basically rock solid engines.
My range today, in terms of options as I sit here, run from fixing up an NA block at minimal expense, using my internals and running down a set of decent but used number 1 pistons, and just ringing the thing and hoping for the best - for maybe $2k, to the $5k SFR deal (which may not be a good deal at all), or something in between with EBS and / or John Anderson, both of which set me up with a solid short block for maybe $2.5k
Since it's track only...it's not a daily driver, and working on this is supposed to be stress relief, I really don't mind the garage time. Conversely, it's damn stressful to be fighting demons at the track after a day or two's prep, and a several hundred mile tow, so I'd like a reliable, a preferrably 2.6 litre or less engine...
Suggestions?
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#8
Originally posted by Bob Patterson
Well - I put this under "stupid human tricks". Installed an EMS, been building the car for a year (but no engine work to speak of), and stupidly left paper towels under the tape over the intakes in the head. So, cranked some paper through the cylinders, suspect I rocked a piston, and viola, we have some very scored pistons.
Makes me wish I'd bought your engine when it was available, Jeff. I've always had a sweet spot for that unit. How's your ride coming?
Well - I put this under "stupid human tricks". Installed an EMS, been building the car for a year (but no engine work to speak of), and stupidly left paper towels under the tape over the intakes in the head. So, cranked some paper through the cylinders, suspect I rocked a piston, and viola, we have some very scored pistons.
Makes me wish I'd bought your engine when it was available, Jeff. I've always had a sweet spot for that unit. How's your ride coming?
Regarding your engine, I would recommend staying completely stock. Alan Coleman has a completely stock bottom end in his track car along with an upgraded turbo, EMS and fuel system. His engine produces close to 400hp to the rear wheels on a regular basis with no problems. If you move away from stock, be prepared for additional costs and reliability issues.
The bug has bitten me BAD and I am building a fairly extreme engine. I am starting with a 968 block and sleeving the bore down to 4.0 inches with ductile iron sleeves and running custom pistons and rods. I am using the short throw standard 944/951 crank so my final displacement will be just under 2.6 liters. I will be running no balance shafts and a 16 valve head. The engine will be dry sumped with a custom turbo, stand alone EMS, upgraded fuel system, custom intake, custom intercooler, custom radiator, custom oil coolers, etc, etc.
Regarding my Huntley engine, since no one bought it, I have been parting it out. I sold the cylinder head, cam cover and Pauter rods. I am planning to use the lightened crank in my new engine project. I still have the 1989 Turbo block (powder coated Speed Yellow and modified to delete the balance shafts) that I might consider selling. It has perfect bores and matching pistons, rings (brand new) and crank girdle that are in excellent condition.
Bob, I hope 2004 turns out to be a much better year for you!!!!
Best regards,
Jeff
#10
Originally posted by John Anderson
Jeff,
YOu have never sold that motor?
Jeff,
YOu have never sold that motor?
Regarding my Huntley engine, since no one bought it, I have been parting it out. I sold the cylinder head, cam cover and Pauter rods. I am planning to use the lightened crank in my new engine project. I still have the 1989 Turbo block (powder coated Speed Yellow and modified to delete the balance shafts) that I might consider selling. It has perfect bores and matching pistons, rings (brand new) and crank girdle that are in excellent condition.