Amp placement
12-22-2003, 03:50 AM
#46
Race Car
Well, for what it's worth, I left all the original speaker wiring in place, and my system sounds great. If I recall correctly, there is #18 wire in there for the speakers, which would be good for about 40 watts (RMS), which is IMO more than enough for a 4x6" speaker. I do really like the boston acoustics, but both alpine and infinity are good, and when I do my door panels, I will be choosing infinity component speakers.
12-22-2003, 03:56 AM
#47
Race Car
Thread Starter
Well that's what I am getting. Just took glove compartment out and there is a nice view of the firewall. Think I can see where the mechanic plugged up a hole. Should be very easy to open hole again and get power wires for amp and stereo to battery.
12-22-2003, 04:00 AM
#48
Race Car
Thread Starter
Pretty funny.... Just answered the hole question here and then got your PM. As for power to the stereo, the power wire says WARNING! HIGH CURRENT DRAW. CONNECT DIRECTLY TO FUSE BLOCKOR BATTERY. DO NOT CONNECT BEHIND DASHBOARD.
12-22-2003, 04:03 AM
#49
Race Car
Thread Starter
Originally posted by jeeper31
Pretty funny.... Just answered the hole question here and then got your PM. As for power to the stereo, the power wire says WARNING! HIGH CURRENT DRAW. CONNECT DIRECTLY TO FUSE BLOCKOR BATTERY. DO NOT CONNECT BEHIND DASHBOARD.
Pretty funny.... Just answered the hole question here and then got your PM. As for power to the stereo, the power wire says WARNING! HIGH CURRENT DRAW. CONNECT DIRECTLY TO FUSE BLOCKOR BATTERY. DO NOT CONNECT BEHIND DASHBOARD.
12-22-2003, 05:35 AM
#50
Race Car
Hrm, if the fuse on the deck is that large, then forget using the existing wiring.
I apologize for misleading you.
The best idea at this point, is to bring the wire straight off the battery, it is about 100x easier than wiring off the fuse box, all you need is a 3/8" ring terminal.
If you can see the hole the mechanic plugged, then you are well on your way, pop his plug out and find a grommet that fits it, so your wires don't chafe.(sp?)
I would put an in-line fuse holder at the battery, that is the safest route. Did you decide where you are locating your amp? If it is going at the glove box, then you can either run 2 power wires, 1 for the amp, and 1 for the deck, seperately fused, or (I may get flamed for this) run large enough wire for both to the amp, then jump it from the amp to the deck. I have this several times, just make sure the wire and the fuse are sized correctly. Some people will complain that this will create line noise, but due to the short distances involved, I believe the risk of that is very minimal.
For what it's worth, I am working on rebuilding an amp to fit in place of the casette holder, it's a little 35Wx2 Kenwood amp, and I'll mount 2 little brushless fans to blow the air over it, I am just changing out all the capacitors and relocating them, as well as the coils. It's not exactly related, but I thought it was a neat project, and it's sort of related to amp placement.
I apologize for misleading you.
The best idea at this point, is to bring the wire straight off the battery, it is about 100x easier than wiring off the fuse box, all you need is a 3/8" ring terminal.
If you can see the hole the mechanic plugged, then you are well on your way, pop his plug out and find a grommet that fits it, so your wires don't chafe.(sp?)
I would put an in-line fuse holder at the battery, that is the safest route. Did you decide where you are locating your amp? If it is going at the glove box, then you can either run 2 power wires, 1 for the amp, and 1 for the deck, seperately fused, or (I may get flamed for this) run large enough wire for both to the amp, then jump it from the amp to the deck. I have this several times, just make sure the wire and the fuse are sized correctly. Some people will complain that this will create line noise, but due to the short distances involved, I believe the risk of that is very minimal.
For what it's worth, I am working on rebuilding an amp to fit in place of the casette holder, it's a little 35Wx2 Kenwood amp, and I'll mount 2 little brushless fans to blow the air over it, I am just changing out all the capacitors and relocating them, as well as the coils. It's not exactly related, but I thought it was a neat project, and it's sort of related to amp placement.
12-22-2003, 08:24 AM
#51
Former Sponsor
Originally posted by jeeper31
I was thinking that. Was also thinking much easier to hook speaker wire up to amp than to head unit. Like I said the guy talked me ou of it. Amp would have been 70 watts wher head unit is 60 watts.
I was thinking that. Was also thinking much easier to hook speaker wire up to amp than to head unit. Like I said the guy talked me ou of it. Amp would have been 70 watts wher head unit is 60 watts.
Get the amp. The amps 70 watts is probably RMS while the decks 60 is max. The amp will always play cleaner than a deck.
12-22-2003, 09:58 AM
#52
Racer
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if your going to be running a seperate amp then you absolutely need to replace all the speaker wires. if your running it off the deck then there is no need.
as far as power, yeah, running the power through the fire wall is the thing to do. you can see mine along with a number of other things in the picture on the first page. i have 4 guage power wire. i run it to the back seat where it goes throught a inline fuse (80 amp), then it goes to a cap and a distribution block. from the distribution block, i am powering my lone amp, the deck, my radar detector, and my laptop. i don't have any line noise. oh, and your deck should have auxillary inputs i think... hehe mine does and that is why i have my laptop. who needs mp3 cds when you have a laptop with 20 gb of mp3 running though the deck=) oh, and did i mention GPS navigation with voice commands=) and DVD=) and hopefully in the next year WIN-TEC=)
as far as power, yeah, running the power through the fire wall is the thing to do. you can see mine along with a number of other things in the picture on the first page. i have 4 guage power wire. i run it to the back seat where it goes throught a inline fuse (80 amp), then it goes to a cap and a distribution block. from the distribution block, i am powering my lone amp, the deck, my radar detector, and my laptop. i don't have any line noise. oh, and your deck should have auxillary inputs i think... hehe mine does and that is why i have my laptop. who needs mp3 cds when you have a laptop with 20 gb of mp3 running though the deck=) oh, and did i mention GPS navigation with voice commands=) and DVD=) and hopefully in the next year WIN-TEC=)
12-22-2003, 12:31 PM
#53
Race Car
Lol, been there with the laptop, although a word of caution, when you have 2 15's in the back, don't set it in the back seat to fiddle with something, unless you really don't like your hard drive.
12-22-2003, 12:35 PM
#54
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Originally posted by Zero10
Lol, been there with the laptop, although a word of caution, when you have 2 15's in the back, don't set it in the back seat to fiddle with something, unless you really don't like your hard drive.
Lol, been there with the laptop, although a word of caution, when you have 2 15's in the back, don't set it in the back seat to fiddle with something, unless you really don't like your hard drive.
