MAGK944

Jfrahm

I'm going to be looking at my motor mounts in a bit, replacing the pan gasket. I think my mounts are in fine shape but if not I am quite tempted to try a Meyle mount. I know they have a bad reputation but I have used a few of their bits recently on Audis and they seem fine, plus I understand they used to produce poor quality Audi suspension parts but upped their game.a few years back and now these parts are just fine. From my impression of the company if the part was no good they'd improve it until it was adequate or stop selling it. I think they are also the aftermarket mount Zim's sells and some say these are fine. If I had a lift it'd be a no-brainer, I'd try the $35 Meyle mounts and be prepared to spread the word if they failed too soon. It's not a horrible job if your PS is not leaking.

I suspect the rubber compound needs to have magic dust mixed in to make it more temperature resistant and the cheapo ones lack that dust and may also lack the damping fluid, Meyle mounts are said to have this fluid tat should be obvious. If I get some of these mounts I could try testing the melting point of the rubber but that may not be definitive enough.

In any case I may wrap the right engine mount in some shiny insulation to try to further protect it from degrading due to heat.

snb13

Be ready to be disappointed in Meyle.

Last time I did mine I used the proper mounts and theiy're still bad. Prematurly. I have a set of semi-solids out in the garage going in next.

Jfrahm

Do you have evidence from recent years to support this?

Wisconsin Joe

A little off topic, but I just replaced mine.
A bit of searching suggested Rein were decent quality, but the threads I looked at seemed to say that they were hard to find.
It was indicated that Rein was the maker for the Porsche mounts. No clue if that's accurate.

ECS has them for $20 each. At a savings of $340, I was willing to give them a shot.
They were backordered for a week or so, but arrived and are in. Car is still parked until spring.

No clue about the longevitiy, but 'we shall see'.

Jay Wellwood

Sonnen - OEM at the lowest possible prices.

Jfrahm

I think Corteco and Rein have been OEM suppliers. Rein mounts used to cost $120 each so the current ones for 1/6 that might not be the same quality. However if they work well and last, that's great. There is an RL thread showing a Rein mount with the triangle-P knocked off and otherwise greatly resembling OEM:

https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...-mounts-2.html

...but again, way more money than the current Rein mounts.

vandal968

How long does it take to swap them out?

cheers,
c

Wisconsin Joe

Couple hours, and that's never having done them before.
Nowhere near as involved as the 928.

Car up on stands.

Front wheels off.

Support the motor (I'd suggest from above with a bridge).

Loosen crossmember bolts.

Edit thanks to Arominus: 2 bolts to remove the heat shield by the exhaust.

Remove motor mount bolts (1 each below, 2 each above).

Raise motor & lower crossmember enough to get the old ones out. Clark's suggests taking the bolts out, then putting them back in 2 turns. I completely removed crossmember bolts and it stayed in place because the lower arms were still attached at the back.

Raise the motor some more to get the new ones in. I had a difficult time getting the "ear" on the mount into the cavity on the outside side of the crossmember.

Bolt the crossmember back in. Lower the motor some, pushing and pulling to get the bolt holes to line up.

Tighten everything back up.

And, as a bit of an 'oddity'., the original mounts don't have threaded holes in the mounts, so the bolts have nuts on the bottom.
The turbo mounts have threaded holes in the mounts, no nuts needed.

One of mine was the old style, needing (and having) nuts on the bottom of the bolts.
The other one was a turbo style, having threaded holes in the mount, but still having nuts on the bottom.
This car has enough "P/O weirdness" that it doesn't really surprise me.

snb13

Define recent. I've had my car 8 years. I put in MM's during year 1. They're aftermarket, touted as being made in the OEM factory to the same specs. I don't remember the brand. But I think they went bad in short order.

This topic comes up pretty regularly. Never has an aftermarket manufacturer gotten improved reports. I wish I'd done the semi-solid mounts at the start.

Jfrahm

I was hoping for experience with Meyle mounts (specifically) in the last 3-4 years. I know they had a bad rep for Audi suspension parts from before then and a good rep in the more recent years. There are tons of pretty questionable brands out there, DP, Uro, etc. Meyle from what I see has a decent reputation these days.

Arominus

Get OEM's or go for a set of the Semi-solids. The rest of the choices are not great IMO. I'm currently running a lightly used set of OEMs i got from one of larts part outs on ebay and they've held up well. Its the passenger side mount that generally gets squished, so my old drivers side mount is my spare as it measured out to spec. If you don't want to spend big money, a good, used mount is an option!

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=944%20motor%20mount&_dcat=33612&Brand%252 0Type=Genuine%2520OEM&rt=nc&_trksid=p2045573.m1684

The LR semi solids are neat in that they do tighten up the driveline, especially with a poly filled trans mount or the matching Semi solid trans mount, running that setup on my S was nice, you DO feel more vibration at idle vs the OEM's especially when cold, but it smooths out when the motor warms or when you get over 1200rpm. The only downside for me was that i kept having CV bolts back out, which required the stage 8 locking bolts to correct.

hanick

Curious, if you have access to a lift, how much easier is it? How much less time? Any change in process?

vandal968

Who makes semi-solid MM's? How do they compare with the the factory stretch-armstrong version?

cheers,
c

Arominus

Maybe a little? you still need the engine support bar (harbor freight, $60 or so). Its just being on your back vs standing, access to the actual mount is not that bad. There is a heat shield over the passenger mount thats 2 10mm bolts and you pull the bottom nut off the crossmember. So you disconnect the top of the mount, use the bar to raise the motor enough and then pull that nut on the bottom.