spark not sparky enough?
#1
Racer
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spark not sparky enough?
well, still working on the S->S2 conversion and i figured out the injector problem i was having. now, i have fuel pressure, i have fuel being injected, i even have spark, but the car will still not start. it will not fire even a little bit. i have sprayed either into the IM and still no firing at all. as a last resort, i sprayed either directly into a cylinder, and still not a single fire. is it possible that the spark is just not hot enough to ignite anything? i know the S and the S2 use an ignitor before the coil, but i'm not really sure of the function of the ignitor.
any ideas as to what could cause the car to not fire even a little bit?
and yes, i have checked the grounds. and yes, the reference sensor works because there is spark (just not sure if it is hot enough).
any ideas as to what could cause the car to not fire even a little bit?
and yes, i have checked the grounds. and yes, the reference sensor works because there is spark (just not sure if it is hot enough).
#4
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the fix for the injectors was to plug them in... DOH!!! there is a plug connected to the cruise control which is actually the injectors. also, the ballast resistors are located right under the cruise control motor assembly. in case anyone needed to know. the plug i am refering to is round with 5 pins in it. it just was not connected at all.
i will go change the cap right now. i have a spare sitting in the garage that appears to be in much better shape.
i will also check the voltages at the ignitor and the coil.
thanks for the help... any other suggestions keep them coming!
i will go change the cap right now. i have a spare sitting in the garage that appears to be in much better shape.
i will also check the voltages at the ignitor and the coil.
thanks for the help... any other suggestions keep them coming!
#5
Racer
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ok, i checked the voltage at the coil: 12.48V
i checked a number of other things including unplugging the reference sensor to make sure that it isn't the problem. when i unplugged it there was no spark at all. just as expected.
plugged it back in, spark.
i also checked to make sure that the pistons were actually moving up and down, which indeed they are (i was beginning to think there was nothing there).
i also replaced the distributor cap and all the plug wires, but it didn't change anything. the rotor also appeared in good shape when the cap was off.
the spark plugs are brand new.
i checked a number of other things including unplugging the reference sensor to make sure that it isn't the problem. when i unplugged it there was no spark at all. just as expected.
plugged it back in, spark.
i also checked to make sure that the pistons were actually moving up and down, which indeed they are (i was beginning to think there was nothing there).
i also replaced the distributor cap and all the plug wires, but it didn't change anything. the rotor also appeared in good shape when the cap was off.
the spark plugs are brand new.
#6
Burning Brakes
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spark should always be White, or blue, Yellow is weak,, sounds like a timming problem.. Take your 1st firring cyllinder to TDC and pull cap and make sure that the rotor is lined up with the wire.. HTH
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#8
Racer
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not sure of the type of spark plug wires they are, but they are pretty new because the rubber surround is still a nice dark color (not fading or cracking at all). also, because i just changed out the cap with all the plug wires i think it pretty much solves that issue.
i will check the voltage at the ignitor tommorow morning, but i'm fairly certain it is 12 V there too.
the factory alarm has been removed some time ago, and the aftermarket alarm was removed too. i did the usual wiring when the factory alarm is removed, and i know that the wiring i did works because the fuel pump runs. i actually had the same problem on my 951 when i swapped engines, so i figured that one out a while ago.
billybones: i was thinking the same thing (timing is off), and i think i will check that out tommorow morning too.
also, i'm getting a whiteish blue spark. i never thought of that one, but it is good to know that i am getting a hot spark.
keep the ideas coming!! this help is absolutely wonderful!! thank you, thank you, thank you...
i will check the voltage at the ignitor tommorow morning, but i'm fairly certain it is 12 V there too.
the factory alarm has been removed some time ago, and the aftermarket alarm was removed too. i did the usual wiring when the factory alarm is removed, and i know that the wiring i did works because the fuel pump runs. i actually had the same problem on my 951 when i swapped engines, so i figured that one out a while ago.
billybones: i was thinking the same thing (timing is off), and i think i will check that out tommorow morning too.
also, i'm getting a whiteish blue spark. i never thought of that one, but it is good to know that i am getting a hot spark.
keep the ideas coming!! this help is absolutely wonderful!! thank you, thank you, thank you...
#10
Racer
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i just checked the wires and they are BERU brand wires. made in W Germany. so i'm guessing they are porsche factory style wires...
#12
check for compression if the cylinder washed out and the rings might not seal only have seen it once or twice. If compression is low put a little oil in the cylinder and then it should be cool.
#14
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mochman: we have tried to do a compression check before on this engine, but we either were not doing it right, or it doesn't hold any compression at all. my guess is i wasn;t doing it right. i read that it gives the best readings when the engine is warm, which is impossible at this point. i have a compression gauge, and will try that tommorow again.
any other tips for doing that? it is really hard to get a snug fit with the fittings because the plug wells are really deep.
any other tips for doing that? it is really hard to get a snug fit with the fittings because the plug wells are really deep.