Stero install
#1
Race Car
Thread Starter
Stero install
Going to be installing my own stereo on a few. Just wondering if anybody has any advice. Already have an aftermarket unit in there now but going to be replacing it with an Alpine 9813. Need to know how much if the dash I need to take apart (If any)? ARe there any other tricks that you have used? Going to be rewiring for new front speakers and a sub in the rear.
Thanks in advance to everybody.
Thanks in advance to everybody.
#2
I read on another thread about an FM booster wire for the antenna. do a search, there are a few threads on stereo install. I just installed one and have to go back and investigate the booster thing.
#3
Three Wheelin'
You don't have to do much work to change head units. If you have a stock Blaupunkt installed you need special "tools" (two pieces of bent coat hanger will work) to pull the head unit. If you need the actual tools, check your local Auto Zone, that is where I found the set I have.
Connecting the wire harness may be another issue. Blaupunkts use DIN style connectors for the speaker wires, and most of the early cars have been "hacked" so there is no telling what you'll find.
The early cars DO NOT use an antenna amp, so there is one less thing to worry about. However, the early cars do have a seperate fader control in the center console. The early cars used a seperate fader because the original Reno SQR-26 radios were only two channel. The later radios like the Reno SQR-46 are 4 channel, so the later cars do not have a seperate fader.
Connecting the wire harness may be another issue. Blaupunkts use DIN style connectors for the speaker wires, and most of the early cars have been "hacked" so there is no telling what you'll find.
The early cars DO NOT use an antenna amp, so there is one less thing to worry about. However, the early cars do have a seperate fader control in the center console. The early cars used a seperate fader because the original Reno SQR-26 radios were only two channel. The later radios like the Reno SQR-46 are 4 channel, so the later cars do not have a seperate fader.
#4
Race Car
Thread Starter
There is an aftermarket sony in there so I don't think I should have too much trouble with the wiring harness. I am going to have to run wires for and amp and hardwire the amp and stereo to the battery. Also running new speaker wires. With all this wiring wondering if going to have to take dash off. Don't see how to get behind stereo.
#5
For anyone else who might read, a nice way to do an install without cutting all the wires is to buy a wiring kit from Crutchfield (free is you buy the unit there!). They are under 15 dollars and allow you to plug in the stock harness to their "converter" then you can mess with the bare wires on their harness. Beats the hell out of cutting the stock harness, especially if you sell (or have a total) where you might want to put the stock unit back in quickly,
__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote
__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote
#6
Jeeper, when you pull the stock unit out, there is space. To get "behind" there, on the side of the console there is a piece of plastic with ONE screw (at least on the late dash, though I am pretty sure the early is basically the same there), unscrew it and you should have room to run the wires.
__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote
__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote
#7
Race Car
Thread Starter
Originally posted by Matt H
For anyone else who might read, a nice way to do an install without cutting all the wires is to buy a wiring kit from Crutchfield (free is you buy the unit there!). They are under 15 dollars and allow you to plug in the stock harness to their "converter" then you can mess with the bare wires on their harness. Beats the hell out of cutting the stock harness, especially if you sell (or have a total) where you might want to put the stock unit back in quickly,
For anyone else who might read, a nice way to do an install without cutting all the wires is to buy a wiring kit from Crutchfield (free is you buy the unit there!). They are under 15 dollars and allow you to plug in the stock harness to their "converter" then you can mess with the bare wires on their harness. Beats the hell out of cutting the stock harness, especially if you sell (or have a total) where you might want to put the stock unit back in quickly,
Trending Topics
#8
Race Car
Thread Starter
Originally posted by Matt H
Jeeper, when you pull the stock unit out, there is space. To get "behind" there, on the side of the console there is a piece of plastic with ONE screw (at least on the late dash, though I am pretty sure the early is basically the same there), unscrew it and you should have room to run the wires.
Jeeper, when you pull the stock unit out, there is space. To get "behind" there, on the side of the console there is a piece of plastic with ONE screw (at least on the late dash, though I am pretty sure the early is basically the same there), unscrew it and you should have room to run the wires.
#9
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Originally posted by jeeper31
Thanks Matt. Offhand I don't remeember seeing anything like that but that doesn't mean it's not there. Hoping it is. It would make the job so much easier.
Thanks Matt. Offhand I don't remeember seeing anything like that but that doesn't mean it's not there. Hoping it is. It would make the job so much easier.
#10
Race Car
Thread Starter
Originally posted by theedge
Im just taking a guess, but I think he referring to the section of plastic thats in this pic, right above the coffee cup. Theres one screw, right behind the mug itself.
Im just taking a guess, but I think he referring to the section of plastic thats in this pic, right above the coffee cup. Theres one screw, right behind the mug itself.
#11
Pro
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Cambridge and Miami
Posts: 588
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
there's a screw in yours aswell, it will allow a littlr more access but don't go pulling to hard, also make sure the interior is warm, the plastic parts will be less brittle.
#12
Just in the middle of doing my install of an Alphine 9805.
The old Blaupunkt Monterey came out a charm (just used the removal handles that go in the holes in the 4 corners). From previous experience, modern headunits all come out differently. My old Sony on a previous car came with a flat metal key to remove it.
First I figured out the speaker harness, the pairs are color coded(eg. yellow/yellow & brown, white/white&brown etc.), now I just need to test which is front /rear left and right.
Then theres a whole bundle of wires left over, testing with a multimeter this is what I found:
A- No idea
B- Permantent +ve
C- No idea
D- No idea
E-Previously twisted with A, but no idea
F-Ground
G- This mess is 3 red/black wires and a red wire, again no-idea
H- Switched (ignition) +ve
There seem to be too many wires unaccounted for, that I can't even imagine what they were used for.
Should the wire for the antenna amplifier go to the switched +ve or the power antenna output (that would raise or lower the antenna on other vehicles)
Hmm which ground to use, this chasis ground pictured or the wired in one (F)
And another thing I can't work out is what this connector could be for, its different from (D).
Hope some of this is useful to people. Anyone know of any other wires I need to identify (light dimming,etc.)
Thanks
Martin
The old Blaupunkt Monterey came out a charm (just used the removal handles that go in the holes in the 4 corners). From previous experience, modern headunits all come out differently. My old Sony on a previous car came with a flat metal key to remove it.
First I figured out the speaker harness, the pairs are color coded(eg. yellow/yellow & brown, white/white&brown etc.), now I just need to test which is front /rear left and right.
Then theres a whole bundle of wires left over, testing with a multimeter this is what I found:
A- No idea
B- Permantent +ve
C- No idea
D- No idea
E-Previously twisted with A, but no idea
F-Ground
G- This mess is 3 red/black wires and a red wire, again no-idea
H- Switched (ignition) +ve
There seem to be too many wires unaccounted for, that I can't even imagine what they were used for.
Should the wire for the antenna amplifier go to the switched +ve or the power antenna output (that would raise or lower the antenna on other vehicles)
Hmm which ground to use, this chasis ground pictured or the wired in one (F)
And another thing I can't work out is what this connector could be for, its different from (D).
Hope some of this is useful to people. Anyone know of any other wires I need to identify (light dimming,etc.)
Thanks
Martin
#13
And if anyone noticed the dirty fingers, blame the dreaded PO. The Blaupunkt was hacked back in there - I guess there was an aftermarket one installed before.
All the wires were twisted together and covered in black insulating tape. That has become a Sticky mess after a few years.
Martin
All the wires were twisted together and covered in black insulating tape. That has become a Sticky mess after a few years.
Martin
#14
Jeeper, yep the harness is made just for that purpose, to use aftermarket units in stock location without cutting the stock harness.
The late dash is probably easier to work with in this regard, I dont know that the access is that good in the early.
Martin, you need the wiring diagram? I have it in a few different forms, I bet I could get it to you.
__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote
The late dash is probably easier to work with in this regard, I dont know that the access is that good in the early.
Martin, you need the wiring diagram? I have it in a few different forms, I bet I could get it to you.
__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote
#15
Matt H
Any chance of emailing it to me. martin@martint.co.uk
That would be fantastic, the car in question is the '87 N/A from my signature.
Thanks.
MartinT
Any chance of emailing it to me. martin@martint.co.uk
That would be fantastic, the car in question is the '87 N/A from my signature.
Thanks.
MartinT