Trying to do my own brake job - Help!
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I need to have my front discs machined and install a new set of pads. I unbolted the caliper but could not get it off the disc. The instructions said something about using a c clamp to compress the caliper but I couldn't see what to clamp onto? Also - is there any trick to getting the pad sensors out or is just best to buy new?
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Did you read up over at Clarks? http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/brake-02.htm . The C-Clamp would be to compress the caliper piston upon reassembly..
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Buy new pad sensors. Again, the C clamp is used to compress your caliper pistons once you put thicker pads on, so you can get them over the rotors
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If you didn't take the pads off before trying to take the caliper off, it could be tough....use a big set of plumber's pliers to compress the piston a little (by squeezing the caliper and the pad attached to the piston) and this should give you more room to wiggle the caliper off. Good luck!
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Josh, like Brian, if you need some help, I'm in town. Obviously there will be some differences bewteen the N/A and S2 brakes, but you'll figure it out!
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Much appreciated Brian - I was actually thinking about calling you
I just ordered a set of sensors so when those get in I'll let you know. Is it important to have the rotors machined? I was going to take them over to the machine shop at NAPA. Is there any other place that will do that? Apparently they are only open on some Saturdays - which is the only day I would be able to do this on. I have been getting a lot of squeal on these brakes when I use them at low speeds. After talking to some different shops I realized that in the labor I would pay for a relatively straightforward job I could buy new cross drilled rotors and pagid pads
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A good way to deal w/ the pad wear sensors is: unplug, clip the wire a short distance from the plug, connect the two wires together, seal bare wires w/ some sort of silicone sealer, plug back in. As long as you check your pads periodically this saves a lot of trouble w/ those little things. I mean really, do we need some light on the dash to tell us when to change pads??? I did this first when I put some pads on that weren't compatible w/ the sensors, -no regrets.
I have a small phillips screwdriver that is just the right diameter to fit in the holes on the brake pads, to help worm them out, just don't pry against the caliper as you could damage the paint.
You can also pry the pistons back in w/ a long screwdriver, just be real careful. It's a good idea to lay something across the piston so as to get an even push, as well as something else against the brake rotor to protect it (or whatever else you're prying against). Just be careful, I've done this quite a few times w/ good results.
I have a small phillips screwdriver that is just the right diameter to fit in the holes on the brake pads, to help worm them out, just don't pry against the caliper as you could damage the paint.
You can also pry the pistons back in w/ a long screwdriver, just be real careful. It's a good idea to lay something across the piston so as to get an even push, as well as something else against the brake rotor to protect it (or whatever else you're prying against). Just be careful, I've done this quite a few times w/ good results.
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Also, if you have one of the long prybars you can slip it in under the pad and pry the old pad away from the rotor with the bar against the rotor. Works very well, and much faster than clamp type caliper spreaders.
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One more thing: do you really need to get your discs turned? just because they're a bit uneven doesn't mean they need to be turned. I only get mine turned when they're warped or otherwise funky. If they work good but are just a bit ridgey you should be just fine w/ them.
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I'd be wary about prying against my rotors. I used the old pad and ground down the friction material so that I could slip it into the caliper and then use a set of channel locks to squeeze the pistion back into the caliper.
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If you are going to replace the pads, go ahead and turn the rotors as well, or else you will find yourself doing it in another few thousand miles. It will save on the life of your pads also. I always just call around to a small brake and muffler shop and ask if they will turn rotors for me...they usually charge about 10 bucks to do it. Also, pop the brake res cap off, and then wiggle the pads side to side on the rotor, and you should be able to force the fluid out of the pistons and get it to loosen up.
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Josh,
Pep Boys and AutoZone also turn rotors and it is a good idea to turn them when you change the pads.
When you get ready to put things back together, use a spray stop squeel. Spray the backs of the pads and after the recommended set time, install. Ours are easy since they just drop in from the top and then you engage the clip to keep them in. Anyway, the spray will keep the pads from vibrating which is the cause of the squeeling.
If you need to discuss any of it, give me a call. I would offer to help but you saw the condition of my car.....still working on it.
Albert
Pep Boys and AutoZone also turn rotors and it is a good idea to turn them when you change the pads.
When you get ready to put things back together, use a spray stop squeel. Spray the backs of the pads and after the recommended set time, install. Ours are easy since they just drop in from the top and then you engage the clip to keep them in. Anyway, the spray will keep the pads from vibrating which is the cause of the squeeling.
If you need to discuss any of it, give me a call. I would offer to help but you saw the condition of my car.....still working on it.
Albert
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While you're in there.......
Why not repack the wheel bearings too? I do it whenever I do a brake job since I already have most of the stuff out of the way.
Why not repack the wheel bearings too? I do it whenever I do a brake job since I already have most of the stuff out of the way.