funky engine temperatures
#1
Wax On, Wax Off
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funky engine temperatures
Hiya.
here's the deal. before I got my huge 3" exhaust with a mean header (and I mean, MEAN) I didn't have much of a problem with overheating except when the damn thermostat went out (what a PITA to change), Anyway, I got the exhaust, and it was running a little hotter than usual. I put in that fan switch that Performance Products sells that turns on the fans 16 degrees sooner, and it's still running hot. (like, in the 3rd bar). sometimes, when I'm at a stoplight it'll run up into the red, so I hit the dash and it bounces back down. so, is my switch defective? It does keep the fans running after I turn it off so that's good. Could the exhuast be heating it up THAT much? I'm thinking it may, so I was thinking of getting that exhaust wrap to keep my under-hood temps down, while keeping the temp of the exhaust manifold inside up so it flows a little better through the header. would this help my problem?
here's the deal. before I got my huge 3" exhaust with a mean header (and I mean, MEAN) I didn't have much of a problem with overheating except when the damn thermostat went out (what a PITA to change), Anyway, I got the exhaust, and it was running a little hotter than usual. I put in that fan switch that Performance Products sells that turns on the fans 16 degrees sooner, and it's still running hot. (like, in the 3rd bar). sometimes, when I'm at a stoplight it'll run up into the red, so I hit the dash and it bounces back down. so, is my switch defective? It does keep the fans running after I turn it off so that's good. Could the exhuast be heating it up THAT much? I'm thinking it may, so I was thinking of getting that exhaust wrap to keep my under-hood temps down, while keeping the temp of the exhaust manifold inside up so it flows a little better through the header. would this help my problem?
#2
Three Wheelin'
I would think if you can hit the dash and the needle moves around, I would think maybe a loose connection/bad ground perhaps........ Check all your connections to it.
#3
Burning Brakes
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My guage goes into the red before the thermostat even opens. I believe that it is a bad ground beneath the dash. If you wanted to, you could take the temperature of the engine using an infrared thermometer to make sure that it is not overheating. My mechanic lent me his, or you could borrow one from the local auto parts store.
#4
Burning Brakes
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I do believe that this is a very common problem and it is related to a ground issue and I don't think it is under the dash.
I was expierencing much the same problem that you are. The temp guag would be very erratic and my volt meter never showed more than 12 volts when the car was hot.
I added 2 supplimental grounds and it took care of the problem completely.
The first ground goes from the Negative post on the battery to the Cam Tower. The second ground is run from the drivers side front balance shaft cover to a factory ground point on the frame longitudinals.
Sorry, I don't have any pictures to show at this time.
The materials I used were 4 guage Car Stereo Amp Cable, Eylets large enough for 4 guage and some plastic wire loom to protect the cables. Whole job took less than half an hour. You will need to remove the airbox in order to do this procedure.
If you really want to fix it correctly though, you will need to replace the ground cable that runs to the back of the engine block. They will corrode on the inside over time and as they heat up from use the current capicity will drop and not provide correct voltage to the car.
I was expierencing much the same problem that you are. The temp guag would be very erratic and my volt meter never showed more than 12 volts when the car was hot.
I added 2 supplimental grounds and it took care of the problem completely.
The first ground goes from the Negative post on the battery to the Cam Tower. The second ground is run from the drivers side front balance shaft cover to a factory ground point on the frame longitudinals.
Sorry, I don't have any pictures to show at this time.
The materials I used were 4 guage Car Stereo Amp Cable, Eylets large enough for 4 guage and some plastic wire loom to protect the cables. Whole job took less than half an hour. You will need to remove the airbox in order to do this procedure.
If you really want to fix it correctly though, you will need to replace the ground cable that runs to the back of the engine block. They will corrode on the inside over time and as they heat up from use the current capicity will drop and not provide correct voltage to the car.
#5
mine doesnt have any problems with heat but when i am at a stop light or parked in the garage the temp guage raises half way to the second line. I think when your at a stoplight and not moving there is no air flow to cool the engine besides the fan so that might be why it almost goes up to the redline.
#6
Rennlist Member
i have the same exact problem.but i think mine has to do with not having hood insulation pads on the passenger side of the hood.i wouold love to see the supplimental grounds,anything that would help me from looking at the need go red.as far as the car getting hot after installing headers,you should try ceramic coating it or thermal wrapping it.