Found a crop of problems
#1
Advanced
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Seattle
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Well, while I am waiting for my A/C compressor I decided to go out and give the engine compartment a good once over to see if I missed any obvious problems that might have caused my emissions failure. Tell me what you think about these "issues"
1. Found a missing hose clamp on the hose from the oil filler to the intake coupler (the missing clamp goes on the filler end). It seems a bit loose fitting, at least for something after the AFM.
2. found another missing hose clamp on a smaller hose connecting to post AFM intake line. Pulls off with slight effort, but not overly loose.
3. main air intake connetion to throttle body completely off, couple mm gap in-between. Man that clamp was a ***** to get re-positioned those german engineers gotta have tiny hands![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
This was after finding the throttle adjustment screw cranked way in, obviously to compensate for massive air leaks.
In other news....
Decided to stick my head under the dash and check the clutch pedal adjustment since the PO had a shop replace the clutch master. He had noticed the clutch starting to slip a bit shortly after this, thus the reason for selling the car (he just put over $3k into belts, water pump, timing chain tensioner and PS pump, rotors, misc tune up goods, etc).
I had all the usual weird clutch problems.. pedal would almost stick to the floor, slipping, disengagement within an inch of pedal travel. Well I think the udjustment was so far out of whack, the clutch was basically half engaged all the time. I read here to adjust it out to about 1/4" free pedal travel, it seems much much better, even without being able to drive it. Hopefully in the next couple days it will be done and on the road finally.
Just thought I would share this, if only to give others some areas to look at when trying to figure out some of these similar problems.
1. Found a missing hose clamp on the hose from the oil filler to the intake coupler (the missing clamp goes on the filler end). It seems a bit loose fitting, at least for something after the AFM.
2. found another missing hose clamp on a smaller hose connecting to post AFM intake line. Pulls off with slight effort, but not overly loose.
3. main air intake connetion to throttle body completely off, couple mm gap in-between. Man that clamp was a ***** to get re-positioned those german engineers gotta have tiny hands
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
This was after finding the throttle adjustment screw cranked way in, obviously to compensate for massive air leaks.
In other news....
Decided to stick my head under the dash and check the clutch pedal adjustment since the PO had a shop replace the clutch master. He had noticed the clutch starting to slip a bit shortly after this, thus the reason for selling the car (he just put over $3k into belts, water pump, timing chain tensioner and PS pump, rotors, misc tune up goods, etc).
I had all the usual weird clutch problems.. pedal would almost stick to the floor, slipping, disengagement within an inch of pedal travel. Well I think the udjustment was so far out of whack, the clutch was basically half engaged all the time. I read here to adjust it out to about 1/4" free pedal travel, it seems much much better, even without being able to drive it. Hopefully in the next couple days it will be done and on the road finally.
Just thought I would share this, if only to give others some areas to look at when trying to figure out some of these similar problems.
#3
Race Car
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Costa Mesa, California
Posts: 3,781
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Vacuum leaks come in a close second to bad grounds. Once the little rubber end fittings on the small diameter plastic soda straw lines swell up you have to replace them with new.
Clutch pedal free play should be about 1/8". There are two springs on the clutch pedal. One is a return sping and one is an assist spring. The assist spring is on the drivers side and the return spring is on the top of the pedal are away from the driver. You can adjust the assist spring. With out it you would develope a left leg twice the size of your right.
You've only just scratched the surface of all the fun you will be having with the 944S. Just wait till the chain tensioner breaks.
Clutch pedal free play should be about 1/8". There are two springs on the clutch pedal. One is a return sping and one is an assist spring. The assist spring is on the drivers side and the return spring is on the top of the pedal are away from the driver. You can adjust the assist spring. With out it you would develope a left leg twice the size of your right.
You've only just scratched the surface of all the fun you will be having with the 944S. Just wait till the chain tensioner breaks.
#4
Advanced
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Seattle
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Fortunately the chain tensioner has been replaced already, just to be sure I have checked, and it is nice and new. Another thing to buy is a new shifter... mine has more slop than a pig farm. Still need to get under and tighten the linkage at the transaxle side, but the shifter pin is worn to a football shape. Cool thing is, there is still a porsche sticker on the shifter bar. That'll make some kind of trophy... or at least some desk decoration.
#5
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
good finds... its nice to fix things like that when the car needs it. as for messing with the tranny linkage, if you think its OK then i say leave it, i'm not gonna mess with mine, after i replaced my shifter lever the slop was GONE. i say do that first and see how you like it...
-Michael-
-Michael-
#6
Race Car
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Costa Mesa, California
Posts: 3,781
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Replace the shift lever or use a 3/8" x 2" bolt and two jam nuts to fix it. You will also need a small grinder to get the pin out of the shift lever.
"More slop than a pig farm" LOL!!! I have heard that before.
"More slop than a pig farm" LOL!!! I have heard that before.
#7
Nordschleife Master
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I was talking to the Porsche parts guys and apparently the shift lever wearing out is pretty common. There is also a white plastic pivot bearing the bottom of the lever plugs into. Better replace that since it is probably shot - it is only a couple bucks.
Trending Topics
#8
Advanced
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Seattle
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Well, I got the A/C compressor in tonight and finally got to test out all the "fixes" I made in the last week. Guess I dont need that new clutch afterall
making that pedal adjustment did a whole world of good to fix my slipping and pedal return problem. The idle seems 150% better without the extra un-measured air intake from the disconnected throttle body pipe. Now all I need is a new shifter an alignment and an oil drain plug (think mine is missing the O-ring) and I am golden. Thanks everyone for all the info floating around here, in a word... priceless....
![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
#9
Race Car
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Costa Mesa, California
Posts: 3,781
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Oil drain has an aluminum crush washer/seal not an o-ring. If there is oil on it after a drive then it just may be the oil pressure sending unit or the lower balance shaft seal leaking.
#10
Race Car
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Costa Mesa, California
Posts: 3,781
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally posted by IceShark
I was talking to the Porsche parts guys and apparently the shift lever wearing out is pretty common. There is also a white plastic pivot bearing the bottom of the lever plugs into. Better replace that since it is probably shot - it is only a couple bucks.
I was talking to the Porsche parts guys and apparently the shift lever wearing out is pretty common. There is also a white plastic pivot bearing the bottom of the lever plugs into. Better replace that since it is probably shot - it is only a couple bucks.
Not to be contrite, but what the heck, I found the bottom piviot bushing to be used but not loose on my 83 when I recently did the 3/4" bolt thing.
You any relation to IceWater???
![EEK!](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
#12
Race Car
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Costa Mesa, California
Posts: 3,781
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The only concern is to get the head and a few threads cut/ground off of the bolt for clearence.
Some have trouble figuring out where the nuts go. One on each side of the shifter bar then tightened against the shifter bar.
So far so good.
I also suggest that you get under the car and check all of the shifter connections in the back at the trans.
Some have trouble figuring out where the nuts go. One on each side of the shifter bar then tightened against the shifter bar.
So far so good.
I also suggest that you get under the car and check all of the shifter connections in the back at the trans.
#13
Advanced
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Seattle
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
WoooHooo!!!!
Passed the emissions test with flying colors this time. Finally got the car fully legal and licensed, now I dont have to worry so much about the cops nabbing me for those pesky expired tabs. I do kinda feel sorry for the kid I bought the car from, he was thinking the clutch was toast and would have to shell out another $1200 to get it replaced, and the shop he was using somehow couldnt find the problem with the idle. I feel bad, but when I get in that car I feel sooooooo GOOD!
Anyone know where to get a new oil drain plug? mine is leaking and pretty well buggered up from people using the wrong size wrench on it to remove/replace.
Passed the emissions test with flying colors this time. Finally got the car fully legal and licensed, now I dont have to worry so much about the cops nabbing me for those pesky expired tabs. I do kinda feel sorry for the kid I bought the car from, he was thinking the clutch was toast and would have to shell out another $1200 to get it replaced, and the shop he was using somehow couldnt find the problem with the idle. I feel bad, but when I get in that car I feel sooooooo GOOD!
Anyone know where to get a new oil drain plug? mine is leaking and pretty well buggered up from people using the wrong size wrench on it to remove/replace.