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I will Look at my High Strung A Arms and Give you a Dim, Worse comes to Worse we can always Have a Whole Boatload of Pins made...
Damm, Wished you were Closer... I am the Same, No hands touched my car, Did it all, Cage, Metal Fab, Engine, Paint and Body, Elec. Although i will call my wife out to the barn to help me set the rear hatch on before I scratch Fresh paint... Im going to do ONE post of the build with a TON of pics from Start to finish, Im going to call it.. "A Racecar is born" LOL .. Sorry I only Really Get on Rennlist during my lunch.. And The other night I was working on the graphics on the racecar till 4 AM...
What Gets Me is I can buy an A Arm out of mild Steel Similar in build to the high stung arm for the Modified for $100 ...
I do know a Guy who has the Files for these Ball Joints, and they are a Direct FIT! He machined a shoulder on the bottom of the pin so the spindle rests on it. In Addition the is only a "SLOT" for the clamping bolt instead of the 360 Degree Groove like factory.. I was goin to start making them but he wanted 3k for the Design.. I told him that we do do percentage of sales... and it got kinda left at that.. Good Idea though.. what do you think?
BTW I like your Idea about the arm, ONLY Drawback to doing it this way is that I am running Stock F to start, Cant have Geometry correction until I move into SP3... As far as the "Approved" arms.. Well, When I copy a high strung arm ... it will be just that... Except about $800 Cheaper..
BTW I like your Idea about the arm, ONLY Drawback to doing it this way is that I am running Stock F to start, Cant have Geometry correction until I move into SP3... As far as the "Approved" arms.. Well, When I copy a high strung arm ... it will be just that... Except about $800 Cheaper..
On post 33, yes, the shoulder rest on the pin is a good idea.
And yeah, I get my wife to come out every now and then too.
I explained the exact reasoning to the machinist in my wanting to stay with original plan, that someone else who might want a pair, might not want the raised ball joint location.
And to tell you the truth, roll center is a tuning tool that can be utilized with varying pin lengths.
Just because I am at a sweet spot with my current setup, doesn't mean that I don't want the ability to tune with adjusting roll center.
Just because I am at a sweet spot with my current setup, doesn't mean that I don't want the ability to tune with adjusting roll center.
T[/QUOTE
Just gave me an Idea, You could use Eccentrics on the inboard Side of the Arm to Change the RC.. Technically Same thing as what the longer pin Does.. OR maybe a combo to keep the pin length to a Min, Shorter is stronger...
Years ago there was a guy on rennlist that machined some sets of front control arms. As far as I know he stopped making them and was trying to sell the plans/business (?), don't know if anything ever went anywhere or what happened to him. I thought the arms looked really good.
Looks like most of the original threads on these have been deleted. There is one discussion still archived where there was a problem with a customer anodizing the arms and had a bad reaction (etching?) between the grade of aluminum and the anodizing bath chemicals. But I can't find the threads giving any more details on these.
When I played with the idea a while ago of machining control arms (something like the above "mumzer" arms), I had thought about buying fabcar pins and spherical bearings to use. In the end, decided if doing that, why not just go with the whole fabcar arm setup, as machining a single pair of billet aluminum arms and buying the pin assemblies was not going to be cheaper than buying the complete fabcar arms.
Right off the bat, his 1st suggestion is that because I am making these from a billet anyway, I can solve the spacing issue of extending the pin to correct the position of the a arm at rest by just building up the pedestal height where the ball joint is, closing the distance between the spindle pinch bolt bore and the top of the a arm.
Jim...., Glen, what do you guys think about this alternative...?
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T
I think I like this idea better than the longer/extended pins.
I have always just run standard length pins, either with the factory arms or aftermarket.
Years ago there was a guy on rennlist that machined some sets of front control arms. As far as I know he stopped making them and was trying to sell the plans/business (?), don't know if anything ever went anywhere or what happened to him. I thought the arms looked really good.
Looks like most of the original threads on these have been deleted. There is one discussion still archived where there was a problem with a customer anodizing the arms and had a bad reaction (etching?) between the grade of aluminum and the anodizing bath chemicals. But I can't find the threads giving any more details on these.
I remember all of that going down except the disgruntled guy with the anodized ones.
So much advancement now in CAD since then, you don't need plans, you just take some digital pics, open file in Autocad or Solidworks, Scale one component/feature of the part, like the castor pin bore and the software scales the entire part for you.
I think I like this idea better than the longer/extended pins.
I have always just run standard length pins, either with the factory arms or aftermarket.
Thought so too originally.
But, alas, not everyone would want lowered arms.
For better or worse, I am most likely going with stock joint positioning with the larger tapered pin, welded to the spindle.
To adjust pin length, I'd have to change out the complete spindle with longer/short pin, not something you'd want to do more than once due to lost camber setting, i.e., realigning.
Gonna settle on a ride height, set pin length and forget about it as a functional tuning feature.
if you had a billet arm to use as a "template" you could probably send it to Lindsey Racing or someone like that to duplicate, since they've "got a guy" for making AC delete and dry sump brackets.
How I missed that in 17 years around here, soon after the forums were created from just an email list is beyond me...
If there's room for entire threads - "how do I get my drain plug out",
"what brand chamois is everybody running", and
"sun visor clip r & r how to DIY",
then surely there's room for a 944 specific race thread.
T
It's sort of my experience over the past few years that the racing forum doesn't share a lot of love for 944s and I haven't really figured out why. I can't tell if the 944 folks really have a chip on their shoulder or the 911 folks really are snobs. There's a chance neither one is accurate.
But since the 944 is, without doubt, one of the most common (if not the most common) racing platform, maybe there should be a forum just dedicated to racing 944s and performance mods for it?
I only bring this up because I've been digging around for information on the Sparco Ergo containment seat with removable HALO wings and there's really no single place to look for posts on that subject because the seat fits multiple cars and, in all seriousness, I don't really want to read all the accounts of trials and tribulations surrounding installing them in a 993. I'm sure it's interesting to other folks but I could do without it.
If there were maybe two extra sub categories for each of the "type" categories, e.g. "924/931/944/951/968 Forum", one for "HPDE/TT/Racing" and another for "Performance Modifications", that could improve the experience? That's just one suggestion, I'm sure other organizations might also work.
Go ahead and leave the general racing/performance sections for discussions of things that aren't platform specific, but add platform specific discussions for the things that are.
09-20-2017, 01:44 PM
