Questions about 16v into pre 85.5 car
#16
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this:
and this:
before lunch. I'll mount it where my AC condenser used to be. If that can't get rid of the heat then f*** it, I saw some mini radiators, I'll water cool it with my wiper fluid. Two birds with one stone, heated wiper fluid and a cool ICM.
#18
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Thanks V2. I'll lay out both harnesses tonight and identify the differences between old and new.
Random question: on pre 85.5, the connections between the hard and rubber fuel lines at the firewall appear to be crimped. Is my only option to cut them and install a bite fitting with new soft lines? (Assuming the pre 85.5 lines don't reach the S fuel rail)
Random question: on pre 85.5, the connections between the hard and rubber fuel lines at the firewall appear to be crimped. Is my only option to cut them and install a bite fitting with new soft lines? (Assuming the pre 85.5 lines don't reach the S fuel rail)
#19
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Mike, I have a pin-out of the early 9-pin connector versus the late style with descriptions and wire colors etc. It's in my Megasquirt build thread somewhere. As far as cooling the ICM, just bolt it a 1/4" slab of aluminum and either epoxy or bolt it to a place out of the way. Unless you're running a super high energy coil that should be fine.
For fuel lines, you can just use a dremel to cut the swage collar where the rubber meets the hardlines, near the brake booster and remove the factory hoses there. The hardlines have a barb on them - just use PTFE lines and line clamps that are intended for EFI applications (they look like the small clamps Porsche put on medium/large vacuum lines).
For fuel lines, you can just use a dremel to cut the swage collar where the rubber meets the hardlines, near the brake booster and remove the factory hoses there. The hardlines have a barb on them - just use PTFE lines and line clamps that are intended for EFI applications (they look like the small clamps Porsche put on medium/large vacuum lines).
#20
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For fuel lines, you can just use a dremel to cut the swage collar where the rubber meets the hardlines, near the brake booster and remove the factory hoses there. The hardlines have a barb on them - just use PTFE lines and line clamps that are intended for EFI applications (they look like the small clamps Porsche put on medium/large vacuum lines).
#22
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For threaded connections, just get fittings that match the thread. I think you could even reuse them if you also cut the swage off the other side. They're barbed too if memory serves.
#23
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I'll attempt to reuse the current threaded fittings then. Am I correct in thinking I need one 8mm ID line and one 10mm ID line?
#24
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Hey guys, so I got my engine pulled without issue. Just working out vaccuum tube, coolant, fuel, and electrical connections now. I have all the different tubes/wires I need, so now I'm just making myself a mental diagram of how to put them together.
Question: I found the valve on the back of the '84 airbox with two 10mm running to it. Clark's would have me believe this has something to do with A/C. I no longer have A/C, nor will I be using this air box. So, should I mount the valve on my intake before the AFM, should I cap the origin of each tube, or should I make it one continuous line? Thanks.
Question: I found the valve on the back of the '84 airbox with two 10mm running to it. Clark's would have me believe this has something to do with A/C. I no longer have A/C, nor will I be using this air box. So, should I mount the valve on my intake before the AFM, should I cap the origin of each tube, or should I make it one continuous line? Thanks.
#26
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Got it. So its resting state (when A/C is off) is closed, meaning I should cap the lines, because if I just connected them without the valve, the idle will always be unnaturally high.
#28
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Pulled apart the body harness from the 16V car last night and extracted the ICM circuit with all the connectors and wires. I drew a quick diagram of what was left. It's obvious which wires go to the coil, where the ICM plugs in, and where I hook up the ground. Then there is one large green wire that has a black wire bundled into it. They have posts on the end so I assume at one point they attached to a body harness somewhere, then to the DME. The two black wires I'm not sure.
According to http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1458331387.jpg
I need the thick green wire to go to the #1 spot on the DME, but there is already a wire there that goes to the 9 pin molex connector at the firewall, so can I splice it there? Any help understanding where the black wires go would be appreciated. They're obviously the negative power, but I don't understand why they originally went into the IP.
According to http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1458331387.jpg
I need the thick green wire to go to the #1 spot on the DME, but there is already a wire there that goes to the 9 pin molex connector at the firewall, so can I splice it there? Any help understanding where the black wires go would be appreciated. They're obviously the negative power, but I don't understand why they originally went into the IP.
#29
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I believe that's the tach pulse wire, black wire feeds the gas mileage or tachometer circuit. On the early harness you can see the green wire at the 9-pin connector the the brake booster. On the chassis side, you'll notice a smaller green wire exits alongside the thick green wire.
#30
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Weird, I would have assumed the tach signal came from one of the hall effect sensors. Thanks, I'll check out the 8V body harness tonight and see if I can make sense of it.