Notices
924/931/944/951/968 Forum Porsche 924, 924S, 931, 944, 944S, 944S2, 951, and 968 discussion, how-to guides, and technical help. (1976-1995)
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Questions about 16v into pre 85.5 car

Old 10-06-2017, 02:45 PM
  #16  
mikehayes
Racer
Thread Starter
 
mikehayes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 381
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by Dan Shea
I think your best bet is to find the biggest chunk of aluminium you can find, possibly with some fins on it, mount it in a place with good airflow, and use some of the arctic silver heat compound between the ICM and heat sink.
Way ahead of you haha. Ordered the stock ICM,

this:
Amazon Amazon

and this:
Amazon Amazon

before lunch. I'll mount it where my AC condenser used to be. If that can't get rid of the heat then f*** it, I saw some mini radiators, I'll water cool it with my wiper fluid. Two birds with one stone, heated wiper fluid and a cool ICM.
Old 10-06-2017, 02:51 PM
  #17  
V2Rocket
Rainman
Rennlist Member
 
V2Rocket's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 45,496
Received 631 Likes on 489 Posts
Default

pre-85.5 cars had a 9-pin white molex connector
Old 10-06-2017, 03:38 PM
  #18  
mikehayes
Racer
Thread Starter
 
mikehayes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 381
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by V2Rocket
pre-85.5 cars had a 9-pin white molex connector
Thanks V2. I'll lay out both harnesses tonight and identify the differences between old and new.

Random question: on pre 85.5, the connections between the hard and rubber fuel lines at the firewall appear to be crimped. Is my only option to cut them and install a bite fitting with new soft lines? (Assuming the pre 85.5 lines don't reach the S fuel rail)
Old 10-06-2017, 03:48 PM
  #19  
odonnell
Rennlist Member
 
odonnell's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Houston TX
Posts: 4,762
Likes: 0
Received 63 Likes on 45 Posts
Default

Mike, I have a pin-out of the early 9-pin connector versus the late style with descriptions and wire colors etc. It's in my Megasquirt build thread somewhere. As far as cooling the ICM, just bolt it a 1/4" slab of aluminum and either epoxy or bolt it to a place out of the way. Unless you're running a super high energy coil that should be fine.

For fuel lines, you can just use a dremel to cut the swage collar where the rubber meets the hardlines, near the brake booster and remove the factory hoses there. The hardlines have a barb on them - just use PTFE lines and line clamps that are intended for EFI applications (they look like the small clamps Porsche put on medium/large vacuum lines).
Old 10-06-2017, 04:33 PM
  #20  
mikehayes
Racer
Thread Starter
 
mikehayes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 381
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by odonnell
Mike, I have a pin-out of the early 9-pin connector versus the late style with descriptions and wire colors etc. It's in my Megasquirt build thread somewhere.
Thank you, that should be helpful. I'll check it out.

Originally Posted by odonnell
As far as cooling the ICM, just bolt it a 1/4" slab of aluminum and either epoxy or bolt it to a place out of the way. Unless you're running a super high energy coil that should be fine.
Good to know.

Originally Posted by odonnell
For fuel lines, you can just use a dremel to cut the swage collar where the rubber meets the hardlines, near the brake booster and remove the factory hoses there. The hardlines have a barb on them - just use PTFE lines and line clamps that are intended for EFI applications (they look like the small clamps Porsche put on medium/large vacuum lines).
Took some research to understand what you were saying here. I understand it now, but I've read multiple places that while an EFI style clamp is ok for the return line, it's sketchy to use on the high pressure line. What's your take on this? Do it anyway and have a fire extinguisher? Also, if you made your own lines out of PTFE, how did you attach to the FPR/FPD? They're threaded if I recall correctly.
Old 10-06-2017, 05:46 PM
  #21  
V2Rocket
Rainman
Rennlist Member
 
V2Rocket's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 45,496
Received 631 Likes on 489 Posts
Default

no problem using EFI clamp on high pressure line, that's how my subaru came from the factory.

though i have compression fittings on my fuel lines - i cut off the old ones.
Old 10-06-2017, 07:38 PM
  #22  
odonnell
Rennlist Member
 
odonnell's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Houston TX
Posts: 4,762
Likes: 0
Received 63 Likes on 45 Posts
Default

For threaded connections, just get fittings that match the thread. I think you could even reuse them if you also cut the swage off the other side. They're barbed too if memory serves.
Old 10-09-2017, 02:56 PM
  #23  
mikehayes
Racer
Thread Starter
 
mikehayes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 381
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by odonnell
For threaded connections, just get fittings that match the thread. I think you could even reuse them if you also cut the swage off the other side. They're barbed too if memory serves.
I'll attempt to reuse the current threaded fittings then. Am I correct in thinking I need one 8mm ID line and one 10mm ID line?
Old 11-03-2017, 11:01 AM
  #24  
mikehayes
Racer
Thread Starter
 
mikehayes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 381
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Hey guys, so I got my engine pulled without issue. Just working out vaccuum tube, coolant, fuel, and electrical connections now. I have all the different tubes/wires I need, so now I'm just making myself a mental diagram of how to put them together.

Question: I found the valve on the back of the '84 airbox with two 10mm running to it. Clark's would have me believe this has something to do with A/C. I no longer have A/C, nor will I be using this air box. So, should I mount the valve on my intake before the AFM, should I cap the origin of each tube, or should I make it one continuous line? Thanks.
Old 11-03-2017, 12:54 PM
  #25  
V2Rocket
Rainman
Rennlist Member
 
V2Rocket's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 45,496
Received 631 Likes on 489 Posts
Default

If you don't have AC you don't need that valve, at all.
All it does on the early model is give extra air bypass around the TB for when the AC is on, to boost idle speed.
Old 11-03-2017, 02:36 PM
  #26  
mikehayes
Racer
Thread Starter
 
mikehayes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 381
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by V2Rocket
If you don't have AC you don't need that valve, at all.
All it does on the early model is give extra air bypass around the TB for when the AC is on, to boost idle speed.
Got it. So its resting state (when A/C is off) is closed, meaning I should cap the lines, because if I just connected them without the valve, the idle will always be unnaturally high.
Old 11-03-2017, 02:42 PM
  #27  
V2Rocket
Rainman
Rennlist Member
 
V2Rocket's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 45,496
Received 631 Likes on 489 Posts
Default

YES
Old 11-10-2017, 02:58 PM
  #28  
mikehayes
Racer
Thread Starter
 
mikehayes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 381
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Pulled apart the body harness from the 16V car last night and extracted the ICM circuit with all the connectors and wires. I drew a quick diagram of what was left. It's obvious which wires go to the coil, where the ICM plugs in, and where I hook up the ground. Then there is one large green wire that has a black wire bundled into it. They have posts on the end so I assume at one point they attached to a body harness somewhere, then to the DME. The two black wires I'm not sure.

According to http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1458331387.jpg
I need the thick green wire to go to the #1 spot on the DME, but there is already a wire there that goes to the 9 pin molex connector at the firewall, so can I splice it there? Any help understanding where the black wires go would be appreciated. They're obviously the negative power, but I don't understand why they originally went into the IP.
Attached Images  
Old 11-10-2017, 03:15 PM
  #29  
odonnell
Rennlist Member
 
odonnell's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Houston TX
Posts: 4,762
Likes: 0
Received 63 Likes on 45 Posts
Default

I believe that's the tach pulse wire, black wire feeds the gas mileage or tachometer circuit. On the early harness you can see the green wire at the 9-pin connector the the brake booster. On the chassis side, you'll notice a smaller green wire exits alongside the thick green wire.
Old 11-10-2017, 03:31 PM
  #30  
mikehayes
Racer
Thread Starter
 
mikehayes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 381
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Weird, I would have assumed the tach signal came from one of the hall effect sensors. Thanks, I'll check out the 8V body harness tonight and see if I can make sense of it.

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: Questions about 16v into pre 85.5 car



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 06:23 AM.