914 maintance.
08-31-2003, 02:14 AM
#1
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
914 maintance.
I've been talking a long glance at the 914. I'm thinking about a around town type car, a car easy on gasoline, and easy on the parking spaces. And of course, one of a kind. As a V8 owner, the 911s don't do it for me. Plus, I mannaged to see 2 of them, and a 944, last friday. I've never seen another 928, or a 914 at all.
I'm very fimiler with the L-jetronic fuel system, as thats what my 928 has, and I've done loughts of work on it. I'm also pretty dang good with automtive electronics, what with the 928s ground issues and all. As such, I'm aiming for a 1.8L engined one.
Anyways, here's my question, what kind of maintance is involved with a 914? I'm a fairly decent wrench, but my age betrays me. More correctly, my lack of age. Every vehical I've ever owned, or played with has had hydrolic lifters. How often does the 914 need adjustment? I'm also used to breakerless ignition systems. What are the 914s issues with that? On the old Fords and Chevys my father messed around with, they needed to be cleaned, or something, like every 10,000 miles, or so, I never payed much attention. Is it true the 914s have two sets of points in the distributer? One for the ignition, one for the EFI? All the cars have also all been water cooled, are there any specific issues of the air cooling and hot days? (detonation issues if I throw a blower at it?) How hard is it to get a 914 with R134a based a/c? How hard is it to do the conversion? Anyone got a list of option on the 914?
I'm looking for more accuret specs of the 914. It is it a push rod engine, right? Cast iron block and head? What is the combustion chamber shaped like? Compression ratio? Rev. limit of the engine?
If you can't tell my local libary is rather short on this issue, and my google searches are no better.
Thanks.
Anyone got any photos of the engine on the net? Thanks.
I'm very fimiler with the L-jetronic fuel system, as thats what my 928 has, and I've done loughts of work on it. I'm also pretty dang good with automtive electronics, what with the 928s ground issues and all. As such, I'm aiming for a 1.8L engined one.
Anyways, here's my question, what kind of maintance is involved with a 914? I'm a fairly decent wrench, but my age betrays me. More correctly, my lack of age. Every vehical I've ever owned, or played with has had hydrolic lifters. How often does the 914 need adjustment? I'm also used to breakerless ignition systems. What are the 914s issues with that? On the old Fords and Chevys my father messed around with, they needed to be cleaned, or something, like every 10,000 miles, or so, I never payed much attention. Is it true the 914s have two sets of points in the distributer? One for the ignition, one for the EFI? All the cars have also all been water cooled, are there any specific issues of the air cooling and hot days? (detonation issues if I throw a blower at it?) How hard is it to get a 914 with R134a based a/c? How hard is it to do the conversion? Anyone got a list of option on the 914?
I'm looking for more accuret specs of the 914. It is it a push rod engine, right? Cast iron block and head? What is the combustion chamber shaped like? Compression ratio? Rev. limit of the engine?
If you can't tell my local libary is rather short on this issue, and my google searches are no better.
Thanks.
Anyone got any photos of the engine on the net? Thanks.
08-31-2003, 07:56 PM
#2
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Livermore, California
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http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...lve_adjust.htm
This is what it takes to reset the valves.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/914/914tech_specs.htm
Tech specs
Every minor maintenance item is easily done. Oil change, valves, points, plugs, wires. It's not too much of a hassle. Anything major, like maybe taking off a cylinder head would require removing the engine from the car, which is also fairly easy. I love working on my 74 2.0. I just rebuilt it so I think I have a fairly good idea on this stuff.
This is what it takes to reset the valves.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/914/914tech_specs.htm
Tech specs
Every minor maintenance item is easily done. Oil change, valves, points, plugs, wires. It's not too much of a hassle. Anything major, like maybe taking off a cylinder head would require removing the engine from the car, which is also fairly easy. I love working on my 74 2.0. I just rebuilt it so I think I have a fairly good idea on this stuff.
09-01-2003, 10:59 PM
#3
Pro
Just like your 928, the 914 is also a Porsche!
There are some good sites out there on the net. 914club.com is about the best right now. My far from stock 914 is pretty easy to maintain now that most of the bugs are worked out.
1950lb 74 2.0L Solid lifters (all 914 motors) web 86B cam dual valve springs. 8.5:1 compression, port polished cc'd, heads, Balanced everything 13lb flywheel, 050 distributor, webber 40IDF's Basically goes like stink.
There are some good sites out there on the net. 914club.com is about the best right now. My far from stock 914 is pretty easy to maintain now that most of the bugs are worked out.
1950lb 74 2.0L Solid lifters (all 914 motors) web 86B cam dual valve springs. 8.5:1 compression, port polished cc'd, heads, Balanced everything 13lb flywheel, 050 distributor, webber 40IDF's Basically goes like stink.
09-08-2003, 03:31 AM
#4
928 Barrister
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
914
VU:
You may remember me from the 928 Forum. I have an'86.5 928 and I also have an original 914/6 (a bit warmed over).
If you want the most fun car to drive and the essence of Porsche, drive a Speedster; and if you can't find one to drive, drive a 914 2.0L. It will put a smile on your face from ear to ear. But remember that it is not a 928. It is light and agile around town and easy to drive quickly. Did I mention it is light? Well, it is. It is not as comfortable as the 928 which I regard as a true high speed GT. The 914 is SIMPLE: simple to drive, simple to take apart and put back together. I take the engine in my 914/6 out to adjust the valves and put it back in in an afternoon....if I am being casual about it.
I once put the whole engine less heat exchangers in the front seat of my Rabbit and took it to the machine shop to have a broken exhaust stud removed and then left for a 3000 mile trip that night after reinstalling it.
It will bounce around abit more than the 928 and even a 911...but I like that 'cause I like to know what is happening relative to the road. You probably won't need to supercharge it if you make the right modifications
because it is so light and responsive.
Be sure that you check the car out thoroughly for rust, as it was built before the age of galvanized Porsches. Particularly check out the battery tray in the engine compartment, and the rocker panels below the doors (take the valances off and jack up the car and try to open the doors). There are alot of parts for hotrodding these cars and alot of salvage yards with parts, unlike the 928. The 901 gearbox may not be your preference unless you get acquainted with it. It is light and so is the clutch. I use a '69 911S clutch which is easy to feather and may be much lighter than you like.
Handling of a 914 is the other end of the spectrum from a 928. I could take my grandmother to church in the 928, but she might try to have me arrested if I asked her to ride in my 914. It is relatively easy to spin a 914 while that is not so easy in a 928. Twisties are a delight all day in a 914, while they would be work in a 928. Usually, a modified 914 of some sort wins the Porsche Club autocrosses with top time of the day, and they have been doing that for years despite all the newer models of Porsches that have been developed. The potential to make the 914 move rapidly and responsively is tremendous, especially with fat tires and wheels. Remember that the factory developed the car to race and then produced a streetable version, so there are many factory designed go fast parts floating around.
And if you tire of the power of a 2.0L 914, you can always convert it to a 3.6L 911 engine (there are Chevy conversions, but I won't mention that here...bad subject). But a 914 2.0L will get off a line faster than my 2.7L
914/6 and beat me across the intersection.
And the 914 has two trunks !!
Buy the latest one rustfree that you can find. And forget the radio,'cause it is unlikely you will hear it if you hotrod the car, and who would care to listen when you can listen to the engine noises right behind your ears?
You may remember me from the 928 Forum. I have an'86.5 928 and I also have an original 914/6 (a bit warmed over).
If you want the most fun car to drive and the essence of Porsche, drive a Speedster; and if you can't find one to drive, drive a 914 2.0L. It will put a smile on your face from ear to ear. But remember that it is not a 928. It is light and agile around town and easy to drive quickly. Did I mention it is light? Well, it is. It is not as comfortable as the 928 which I regard as a true high speed GT. The 914 is SIMPLE: simple to drive, simple to take apart and put back together. I take the engine in my 914/6 out to adjust the valves and put it back in in an afternoon....if I am being casual about it.
I once put the whole engine less heat exchangers in the front seat of my Rabbit and took it to the machine shop to have a broken exhaust stud removed and then left for a 3000 mile trip that night after reinstalling it.
It will bounce around abit more than the 928 and even a 911...but I like that 'cause I like to know what is happening relative to the road. You probably won't need to supercharge it if you make the right modifications
because it is so light and responsive.
Be sure that you check the car out thoroughly for rust, as it was built before the age of galvanized Porsches. Particularly check out the battery tray in the engine compartment, and the rocker panels below the doors (take the valances off and jack up the car and try to open the doors). There are alot of parts for hotrodding these cars and alot of salvage yards with parts, unlike the 928. The 901 gearbox may not be your preference unless you get acquainted with it. It is light and so is the clutch. I use a '69 911S clutch which is easy to feather and may be much lighter than you like.
Handling of a 914 is the other end of the spectrum from a 928. I could take my grandmother to church in the 928, but she might try to have me arrested if I asked her to ride in my 914. It is relatively easy to spin a 914 while that is not so easy in a 928. Twisties are a delight all day in a 914, while they would be work in a 928. Usually, a modified 914 of some sort wins the Porsche Club autocrosses with top time of the day, and they have been doing that for years despite all the newer models of Porsches that have been developed. The potential to make the 914 move rapidly and responsively is tremendous, especially with fat tires and wheels. Remember that the factory developed the car to race and then produced a streetable version, so there are many factory designed go fast parts floating around.
And if you tire of the power of a 2.0L 914, you can always convert it to a 3.6L 911 engine (there are Chevy conversions, but I won't mention that here...bad subject). But a 914 2.0L will get off a line faster than my 2.7L
914/6 and beat me across the intersection.
And the 914 has two trunks !!
Buy the latest one rustfree that you can find. And forget the radio,'cause it is unlikely you will hear it if you hotrod the car, and who would care to listen when you can listen to the engine noises right behind your ears?
09-13-2003, 01:12 AM
#5
Racer
Join Date: Jun 2002
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VU...you'll love a 914. I've owned 928's (have an 83s as we speak), 914 (love that car and regret ever selling it), 912's and currently also own a 911. I'm also in the hunt for another 914. You'll find that their engines are relentless..forgiving..and don't need preciseness. They handle like go-carts! Very easy to work on! Get a good one and put 914-GT fender flares on it with upgraded 911 rims and you'll have one greater handling car with aggressive looks! Like previously said, look for rust (battery tray, longitudinals, front/rear trunk areas are the telltale spots). Arizona is a great place to find a rust free specimen!