Deralik

I can purchase a '67 912 for not much money ($1500.00 The seller has no P-Car experience and took the car in trade for work done. He tells me that the car is rusty. How bad is unknown as I've not seen the car. Unknown miles but probably high.

He tells me that the car is carbureted with a 5 speed. It has the appropriate type Fuchs. The car is complete and had the same owner for the past 15 years. I can probably track this guy down if necessary.

I hate to see the car "die" and will try to keep it intact but if the car is terminal, can I part it out and make a reasonable profit? Is there a good market for 912 parts? I have an 80 SC that's undergoing a rebuild and really can't spare the room. But like I said, the car should go to "Porsche Parts Heaven" and not end up in some junkyard.

I will appreciate a prompt response as I plan to see the car tomorrow.

hoffman912

for that price, sounds like alot of rot. good 912s now go for 8-10k. rust is rust, and rust is cancer. if its a light surface rust.. its workable. you can (most likely will) get your 1500 back, and more if you part it out (ie terminal rust). if its not terminal dont part it out.

how original is it? if you buy please register it on the 912 registry

912registry.org

if its not bad, you can keep it, restore it etc, especially if all the original bits are there. if not original and the tub is good, you can always make a track car, or an outlaw r-gruppe type of car out of it, or just have a fun little vintage four banger.


also for more oppinions by 912ers, you need to go to a place where more 912ers are online... if youre thinking about this seriously go here

www.bbs912.org

if yiou buy to keep, thats the group to help you out. if you buy to part, thats your customer base.

Deralik

Thanks for your input. Please enlighten me. What qualifies a car as "terminal"? I know there are replacement parts available? I am very fortunately ignorant of rust issues. At what point does the rust "win"? Thanks again and I will contact the 912 folks after I see the car.

hoffman912

replacement parts come off of parts cars.. unless you want to pay 2k+ for an oem fender (yes, one fender), or fiberglass. other metal fenders are not correct fit.

rust wins when the car is rotted out, beyond any reasonable amount of body work. floors, pans, fenders, roof, rockers, etc... rot is rot. if its just surface rust and its solid, thats one issue, but a piece of swiss cheese is another.

go to the 912bbs, see if one of the bay guys would mind tagging along to check out a car, and let them know its for a project or to part out, and youre unfamiliar with rust issues.

btw.. ill see if i can find pics of what surface rust is, and what rot is. the key is that youve not only gotta look, youve gotta feel, and tap. dont be afraid to tap it.. not bang the **** out of it, but if it looks week or your concerned (especially underbody), go ahead and tap.. if a finger goes through run away.. if it feels weak.. bad.. you have to check for rust everywhere. around all window seals, doors, rockers, pans, floors, etc etc etc..


rust is somthing you dont learn to recognize over night. nor is it somthing you learn by pictures, or online. i suggest you contact them before you see it. i dont want to see you go over your head. usually someone buys a 912 for 1000 or so, its a tea bag, and they have found themselves putting 10k in it and are still half way done, and broke, and heart broken.

engine rebuild is 5k avg for a good one (ie no shortcuts, reliable, no bs). bad *** engine rebuild youre talking 10k.

there is a market for after market parts, but most are cheep o. dont buy from tweaks.. buy from classic and speed parts, as their stuff is quality, and Will caters to the 912. will is also a great guy, and is honest about his parts.. if he sells somthing and he feels it would be better to try somthing else for the project, he will tell you. floors and most body stuff you can get from restoration design (but not fenders, i dont think..)

btw.. a 67 is a short wheel base year. anything 65-68 is swb, and is completely different in body from 69 up 911/912 (long wheel base). so fenders etc are not interchangeable for those years of 911/912.


btw.. a 912 is a lesson in economics.. its might be anaffordable posche, but its not cheep.. its better to buy a 10k excellent car, than a 1k car and restore it. in the end, the 10k car will be worth more, and you put less money into it. go to the 912 board.. do a search on economics.. you'll find alot of info

hoffman912

again.. if all else fails, buy it and part it out, you'll get your money back, and then some.

hoffman912

or buy that one and another 912... keep the parts car as your personal supply of replacement parts (many do this)

Doug n Terri

Rust - the gift that keeps on giving - but where?

Start up front - take out a head lamp. There - that little rubber pluggy thing got gummed up with hornets wings, twigs and dirt - and water. Tah tah head lamp bucket or just in front of it - see fender replacement.

Next, look in the trunk, where the front bumper connects - there at the connectors. 69's are nortorious for rust at the four bolt spots up front because the little front gizmo tacked to the body has a V cut in it and this allows dirt to accumulate and get wet and tah tah front end.

Next is the side panel at the door line and front fender. Once again - two pieces of metal come together - the trailing metal piece, about 4 inches wide and the fender itself. The factory puts a goo there that hardens and falls out and is replaced by dirt and water - tah tah fender there.

The joint between the fender and the body. The factory glues the fender to the body with a double sided sticky tape and if that is interrupted or the hood rubber gives up (BUWHAAAhahaahahhahaha) there goes the body at the fender bolt on places.

The top near the fresh air duct - the rubber gets buckled by the screen and allows water to accumulate. There goes the rubber trough holder inner.

Doors - some dweeb took the door apart and DID NOT replace the shower curtain right. Rain water goes down there, and into the car. Tah tah rugs and seat pins.

Master brake cylinder failed and the fluid, being hygroscopic (not hydroscopic) like water - there goes the pedal cluster.

The car is a sun roof and some dweeb used compressed air to clean the 4 drain holes and blew off the rubber coupling - there goes the A piller at the door hinges.

Rear rubber at corners gets rotten and water collects there - there goes the C pillar.

Rust, ah yes, Entropy at its finest. Keep on trucking -

Just my modest humble opinion - heh heh

hoffman912

Doug, you sound about as cynical as me! you should head to monterey in august and meet up with 100 other crazed 912ers just like us.

Harry,

murphy isnt just my co-pilot, he's a curse!