Taking the plunge on a 930 Slant. What to do before I buy??
#16
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
As with everything, a lot hinges on the final inspection. Not worried about the oily bits as there was an extensive refresh and the owner appeared to care about having the car in top shape (love seeing multiple lines of 'Owner requested we do X...' on a garage invoice).
For me it's all about paint and interior. I've seen way too many cars where the seller's definition of 'mint' does not match mine. Fingers crossed.
Last edited by IrishAndy; 03-22-2017 at 12:39 PM.
#17
OK, so the Slant Nose is the look that intrigued me most as a kid. More than the Countach. More than the Testarossa. It's not just the look, but the story and the history as well.
After 18 months in what I consider to be the best sounding car ever made (the Cayman GT4) I am selling and taking the plunge on a low mileage 930 Slant coupe. More details to come. I expect to put a deal together in the next 48 hours.
I don't know if this is the bottom of the current market for slants, but with the recent correction I feel comfortable enough in taking the plunge.
I've only been looking at real 505's with all documentation and ancillaries and with recent major services, so I have that part covered (the only exceptions I've have given on are copies of the original window sticker vs. the true original). There are probably other things I'm not so versed in though, as my classic car experience is very limited.
So, I'd love advice on anything I should look for in the final hours/days from 505 and 930 owners in general. And also what I need to arrange:
What to Look for:
- other than overall condition (I'm a detailing junkie) I've seen cracks in the paint at the bottom of the A pillars on some of these cars, general damage to the lower valance on the fronts, stitching coming apart on the steering wheels (regardless of mileage) and badly repainted wheel centers. Is there anything else I should be looking for that can be typical on these cars?
What to do:
- Transport, etc. will be covered... but classic insurance? I have no idea where to go or where the better classic car policies (expecting very limited mileage) can be found.
- Storage. It will be in my insulated garage. As a detailing enthusiast I'm against car covers. I'm considering a car capsule or similar. Thoughts? Also about setting a rust inhibitor in there, like zerust? I have no experience in these things.
Any and all help appreciated. Time is ticking!
After 18 months in what I consider to be the best sounding car ever made (the Cayman GT4) I am selling and taking the plunge on a low mileage 930 Slant coupe. More details to come. I expect to put a deal together in the next 48 hours.
I don't know if this is the bottom of the current market for slants, but with the recent correction I feel comfortable enough in taking the plunge.
I've only been looking at real 505's with all documentation and ancillaries and with recent major services, so I have that part covered (the only exceptions I've have given on are copies of the original window sticker vs. the true original). There are probably other things I'm not so versed in though, as my classic car experience is very limited.
So, I'd love advice on anything I should look for in the final hours/days from 505 and 930 owners in general. And also what I need to arrange:
What to Look for:
- other than overall condition (I'm a detailing junkie) I've seen cracks in the paint at the bottom of the A pillars on some of these cars, general damage to the lower valance on the fronts, stitching coming apart on the steering wheels (regardless of mileage) and badly repainted wheel centers. Is there anything else I should be looking for that can be typical on these cars?
What to do:
- Transport, etc. will be covered... but classic insurance? I have no idea where to go or where the better classic car policies (expecting very limited mileage) can be found.
- Storage. It will be in my insulated garage. As a detailing enthusiast I'm against car covers. I'm considering a car capsule or similar. Thoughts? Also about setting a rust inhibitor in there, like zerust? I have no experience in these things.
Any and all help appreciated. Time is ticking!
#20
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
OK, the level of guidance and expertise I've received from 1990ruf has been insane. Whatever level is beyond 'the next level'... It's that level...
The cassis did not pass inspection for me, so it's on to the next one. This board is everything I hoped it would be in terms of helping with my search. This place rocks!
The cassis did not pass inspection for me, so it's on to the next one. This board is everything I hoped it would be in terms of helping with my search. This place rocks!
#21
OK, the level of guidance and expertise I've received from 1990ruf has been insane. Whatever level is beyond 'the next level'... It's that level...
The cassis did not pass inspection for me, so it's on to the next one. This board is everything I hoped it would be in terms of helping with my search. This place rocks!
The cassis did not pass inspection for me, so it's on to the next one. This board is everything I hoped it would be in terms of helping with my search. This place rocks!
He has been an invaluable resource to me as well. I wish I had known him before I started buying cars. Do you have a target for the next car to check out? Enjoy the process, the hunt is half the fun.
#22
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
As a mental sideshow I also have one half of one eye on a largely undocumented DP/Kremer car that's coming up for auction. Can anyone spell 'sucker'?
#23
1990ruf has some leads on some cool slants. I'm also thinking of taking a look at the Cassis on RL. Seems like a good, conscientious owner...
As a mental sideshow I also have one half of one eye on a largely undocumented DP/Kremer car that's coming up for auction. Can anyone spell 'sucker'?
As a mental sideshow I also have one half of one eye on a largely undocumented DP/Kremer car that's coming up for auction. Can anyone spell 'sucker'?
As someone who has gone about this the wrong way before I applaud you for doing it the right way. Your car will find you eventually and it will be worth the wait.
#24
Pay up for the right car.
Right car : Low miles, original paint or mostly original paint, good history, extensive service history, excellent condition, clean undercarriage, books, tools etc.
Right car : Low miles, original paint or mostly original paint, good history, extensive service history, excellent condition, clean undercarriage, books, tools etc.
#25
Race Director
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OK, deposit is in. It's the '88 Cassis at Isringhausen with 11K miles. Right at the top of my budget for a slant.
As with everything, a lot hinges on the final inspection. Not worried about the oily bits as there was an extensive refresh and the owner appeared to care about having the car in top shape (love seeing multiple lines of 'Owner requested we do X...' on a garage invoice).
For me it's all about paint and interior. I've seen way too many cars where the seller's definition of 'mint' does not match mine. Fingers crossed.
As with everything, a lot hinges on the final inspection. Not worried about the oily bits as there was an extensive refresh and the owner appeared to care about having the car in top shape (love seeing multiple lines of 'Owner requested we do X...' on a garage invoice).
For me it's all about paint and interior. I've seen way too many cars where the seller's definition of 'mint' does not match mine. Fingers crossed.
C
#26
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I had to walk, unfortunately. Interior perfect and mechanically excellent, but most of the paint had been redone (at least the clear) which was not disclosed in any of the history.
It has turned out to be a blessing in disguise... great people here helping me to find the right car for my budget. What a great experience!
It has turned out to be a blessing in disguise... great people here helping me to find the right car for my budget. What a great experience!
#29
Rennlist Member
Correct. My research found that as far back as early 80's, the metallic's received a clear coat, but all the non-metallic (black, red, white) did not. I know my guards red did not have clear. But if you've followed any of my other 964Turbo threads, I had a CeramicPro 4-coats of 9H applied this past winter, and the results are phenominal. 2 more coats of the hydrophobic light on top of the 9H, and it is exceptional. It now almost feels as though there is a clear coat on my single stage red. It made it look so much deeper (which in my opinion is one of the advantages of metallic's over straight colors. I love my red don't get me wrong, but I like a LOT of metallic colors too).
Anyway,... I did have a question for those of you in-the-know:...
Back in the 1980's, the metallic colors that received a clear coat,... does anyone know exactly what type of clear coat PAINT was used? Was it a enamel or a lacquer? and if so, was it hand wet sanded?
just curious on the actual products they used, and the process.
Thnx,
=Steve
#30
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I know this is probably not the right thread for this,... but since ItishAndy is clearly spending a lot of time & effort looking for the right slant nose....
Correct. My research found that as far back as early 80's, the metallic's received a clear coat, but all the non-metallic (black, red, white) did not. I know my guards red did not have clear. But if you've followed any of my other 964Turbo threads, I had a CeramicPro 4-coats of 9H applied this past winter, and the results are phenominal. 2 more coats of the hydrophobic light on top of the 9H, and it is exceptional. It now almost feels as though there is a clear coat on my single stage red. It made it look so much deeper (which in my opinion is one of the advantages of metallic's over straight colors. I love my red don't get me wrong, but I like a LOT of metallic colors too).
Anyway,... I did have a question for those of you in-the-know:...
Back in the 1980's, the metallic colors that received a clear coat,... does anyone know exactly what type of clear coat PAINT was used? Was it a enamel or a lacquer? and if so, was it hand wet sanded?
just curious on the actual products they used, and the process.
Thnx,
=Steve
Correct. My research found that as far back as early 80's, the metallic's received a clear coat, but all the non-metallic (black, red, white) did not. I know my guards red did not have clear. But if you've followed any of my other 964Turbo threads, I had a CeramicPro 4-coats of 9H applied this past winter, and the results are phenominal. 2 more coats of the hydrophobic light on top of the 9H, and it is exceptional. It now almost feels as though there is a clear coat on my single stage red. It made it look so much deeper (which in my opinion is one of the advantages of metallic's over straight colors. I love my red don't get me wrong, but I like a LOT of metallic colors too).
Anyway,... I did have a question for those of you in-the-know:...
Back in the 1980's, the metallic colors that received a clear coat,... does anyone know exactly what type of clear coat PAINT was used? Was it a enamel or a lacquer? and if so, was it hand wet sanded?
just curious on the actual products they used, and the process.
Thnx,
=Steve
I actually liked the solids without a clear coat. They have one benefit... If you add a paint cleaner/conditioner that contains conditioning oils (e.g. Zymol HD Cleanse) the paint accepts the oils and immediately deepens and darkens. You have to be careful when you apply, because if you miss spots, those streaks look noticeably lighter and less deep. It's almost a test IMO to determine if your solid color '80s paint has ever been cleared later in life...
As to your question, I believe it was an enamel clear coat in the 80's on metallic Porsches, though I've never seen definitive documented evidence, so we really need a paint geek to chime in. Someone who's deep into the history may know if they ever experimented with (poly)urethane concoctions in the '80s or '90s...
Andy